3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 2000 Camry LE V6, automatic tranny, approx 140,000 miles. When I brake and approach a red light, stop sign, etc. the RPM's drop down to maybe 300-400 momentarily, but then kick back up to regular idle speed. It acts like it is going to stall, but it has never once stalled on me. It does this 100% of the time, unless I come to a stop VERY slowly then it won't do it. I have noticed this problem for at least 1.5 years, and haven't found a solution. What I have done: replaced timing belt and water pump, replaced spark plugs, replaced IAC, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF, replaced fuel filter, replaced air filter, ran Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner, replaced air intake hoses, checked for vaccum leaks (only visually checked). The car runs fine but this problem drives me crazy because I know it is not supposed to do this. I have read about a break booster but doubt that's it since it has gone on for so long. ANY help or suggestions would be so much appreciated. Thank you.
Easy enough to rule out the brake booster -- disconnect the vacuum line coming from the valve cover at the brake booster (the big doughnut-looking thing on the driver's side firewall), cork it good, and see if the problem goes away. Be warned -- while you do this it will take quite a bit more force than usual to stop the car, so be careful where you do your testing!
or you can make sure the kick down cable from the tb is tight so the trans know to kick down, also after tighting that reset the ecu by pulling the ecu fuse under the hood for a few min so it can relearn the now corrected cable and driving habits
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^ and leaving it that way!
I have a 2000 Camry LE V6, automatic tranny, approx 140,000 miles. When I brake and approach a red light, stop sign, etc. the RPM's drop down to maybe 300-400 momentarily, but then kick back up to regular idle speed. It acts like it is going to stall, but it has never once stalled on me. It does this 100% of the time, unless I come to a stop VERY slowly then it won't do it. I have noticed this problem for at least 1.5 years, and haven't found a solution. What I have done: replaced timing belt and water pump, replaced spark plugs, replaced IAC, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF, replaced fuel filter, replaced air filter, ran Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner, replaced air intake hoses, checked for vaccum leaks (only visually checked). The car runs fine but this problem drives me crazy because I know it is not supposed to do this. I have read about a break booster but doubt that's it since it has gone on for so long. ANY help or suggestions would be so much appreciated. Thank you.
Hey Willie, I had this problem even on my 5spd and what I did was run 1/3 bottle of Seafoam into the brake booster and Deep creep into my throttle body / IAC value and cleaned it out. It improved it alot but once in a while I had it come back, so I had Adam (ASG14) replace my battery terminals and it has disappeared. You case may or may not be the same but worth a try. Also, if you can check your plugs and wires.
Plus a bottle of seafoam is $5, Deep Creep $5, and battery terminals are $30.
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92 Camry 4 cyl 5 Spd
390,000km, Retrofited Projectors + 6000k HID, 2500k Fogs, SRI, K-Sport Coilovers, TRD Rear Sway Bar, GEN4 Ralco Short Shifter, Alpine 7" IVA-D900, 2 x 10" MTX / MTX 900W Amp
Hey Willie, I had this problem even on my 5spd and what I did was run 1/3 bottle of Seafoam into the brake booster and Deep creep into my throttle body / IAC value and cleaned it out. It improved it alot but once in a while I had it come back, so I had Adam (ASG14) replace my battery terminals and it has disappeared. You case may or may not be the same but worth a try. Also, if you can check your plugs and wires.
Plus a bottle of seafoam is $5, Deep Creep $5, and battery terminals are $30.
Thanks for the suggestions. I tend to stay away from sea foaming the car because I don't want to ruin the 02 sensors and cat. I have already cleaned the throttle body and IAC. That is interesting about the battery terminals, I haven't got that suggestion before. I don't understand how that would help though, because isn't the battery not really used once the car is turned on? I mean I could unplug the battery while the car is on (DON'T do unless you want to run the risk of frying your ECU) and the car should still run, so I don't see how the battery terminals would affect my issue. I'm not trying to say your wrong I'm just trying to better understand it.
Easy enough to rule out the brake booster -- disconnect the vacuum line coming from the valve cover at the brake booster (the big doughnut-looking thing on the driver's side firewall), cork it good, and see if the problem goes away. Be warned -- while you do this it will take quite a bit more force than usual to stop the car, so be careful where you do your testing!
I have ruled out the brake booster after testing it. Thank you for the suggestion.
My issue is definitely different than that thread. The car has never once stalled out on me. It is not an intermittent problem, it happens 100% of the time when braking. And my "idle" is not rough it is fine, my problem is when I brake the rpms drop down too low then pop back up to around 1k rpm and then settle around 700-800 rpm. Once im sitting still, the rpms dont move at all and it idles perfectly fine. **I should correct myself. It does not occur 100% of the time. It only occurs when the engine is warm. The first couple minutes after I start the car, while the engine is still warming up, this problem does not exist.
Last edited by willie_buc; 02-04-2010 at 01:40 PM.
Thanks for the suggestions. I tend to stay away from sea foaming the car because I don't want to ruin the 02 sensors and cat. I have already cleaned the throttle body and IAC. That is interesting about the battery terminals, I haven't got that suggestion before. I don't understand how that would help though, because isn't the battery not really used once the car is turned on? I mean I could unplug the battery while the car is on (DON'T do unless you want to run the risk of frying your ECU) and the car should still run, so I don't see how the battery terminals would affect my issue. I'm not trying to say your wrong I'm just trying to better understand it.
The reason I changed my battery post was because of bad grounding. I had grounding problems and lights would dim alot. And apparently it contributed to the electrical dimming. It felt like any button I pressed created a load surge through my car and caused my dash, headlights, and dome light to dim. After some suggestions from TN members and mechanics I got the battery posts replaced first, and it worked (somewhat).
I still have the dimming problem when I hit the brakes. My RPM dips a little (about 100-200 RPM) and the lights dims but is no where as severe as before (400-500 RPM). This is almost like the situation you are describing
If I go ahead and replace all my ground points or clean them up I think I can drastically improve this problem.
I hope that clarifies why i suggested that.
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92 Camry 4 cyl 5 Spd
390,000km, Retrofited Projectors + 6000k HID, 2500k Fogs, SRI, K-Sport Coilovers, TRD Rear Sway Bar, GEN4 Ralco Short Shifter, Alpine 7" IVA-D900, 2 x 10" MTX / MTX 900W Amp
The reason I changed my battery post was because of bad grounding. I had grounding problems and lights would dim alot. And apparently it contributed to the electrical dimming. It felt like any button I pressed created a load surge through my car and caused my dash, headlights, and dome light to dim. After some suggestions from TN members and mechanics I got the battery posts replaced first, and it worked (somewhat).
I still have the dimming problem when I hit the brakes. My RPM dips a little (about 100-200 RPM) and the lights dims but is no where as severe as before (400-500 RPM). This is almost like the situation you are describing
If I go ahead and replace all my ground points or clean them up I think I can drastically improve this problem.
I hope that clarifies why i suggested that.
Thank you again for your help. I understand it better now. I am going to look into that and see what I can do to clean up/replace my grounding points to see if that helps any. I don't have any issues with dimming lights so I don't know if it will help or not, but doesn't hurt to try. I am going to record a video and upload it on here too in case it helps anyone better understand what my car is doing.
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because I know it is not supposed to do this. I have read about a break booster but doubt that's it since it has gone on for so long. ANY help or suggestions would be so much appreciated. Thank you.
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