3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
What could cause an engine to run after turning off the ignition? When I turned off the ignition in my Camry today, the engine continued to run for approximately 10-15 seconds before it turned off. Before this happened, I heard a high pitched sound when starting the car. I haven't had any problems starting the car and it drives normally. I have used the car twice since then and it turned off normally both times since then. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could have caused this problem? I have a 98 Camry LE 4 cylinder with approximately 95,000 miles. Thanks
Assuming the engine is fuel injection (because it probably is) there are built in parts to make it not do this. that said, i'd suspect they're being over-ridden by a little too much carbon build up in your engine. Mainly on the piston tops, intake valves and combustion chamber side of cylinder head is where carbon can build up. the usual causes: crappy fuel, too much short trip driving,
waiting too long to change the oil (this can cause sludging in the oil and oil vapors get burnt in the combustion chamber due to the PCV valve- thus changing your oil too infrequently can contribute to this problem).
Try some Chevron techroline in the tank, you want the maximum effect, so wait til the tank is 1/4 full or less, add the techroline, then add a couple gallons to mix it and drive like that til its almost empty. then fill up.
Repeat this process once or twice more. If you do a lot of short trip operation, the usual culprit for causing carbon build up, try and get the car out on the highway at least once a week, if possible, for about 10 or 20 miles and this will help blow out the carbon and keep it from coming back.
OK, folks who are yelling some variant of "dieseling", please explain where the fuel is coming from, especially for 15 seconds of operation. It's not like this is a carb setup where engine vacuum can suck it out of the carb.
Has anyone ever heard of an engine that diesels for 15 seconds on the fumes from the charcoal filter? Seems more likely than trying to explain how the injectors would be stuck open for that length of time.
Question for twocamrys -- did the engine operation sound "normal", or did it knock-y and rough, like someone was playing with a small baseball bat in the engine compartment?
OK, folks who are yelling some variant of "dieseling", please explain where the fuel is coming from, especially for 15 seconds of operation. It's not like this is a carb setup where engine vacuum can suck it out of the carb.
Has anyone ever heard of an engine that diesels for 15 seconds on the fumes from the charcoal filter? Seems more likely than trying to explain how the injectors would be stuck open for that length of time.
Question for twocamrys -- did the engine operation sound "normal", or did it knock-y and rough, like someone was playing with a small baseball bat in the engine compartment?
The engine was sputtering like it was running out of fuel. I drove the car all over town today and it hasn't happened again.
Assuming the engine is fuel injection (because it probably is) there are built in parts to make it not do this. that said, i'd suspect they're being over-ridden by a little too much carbon build up in your engine. Mainly on the piston tops, intake valves and combustion chamber side of cylinder head is where carbon can build up. the usual causes: crappy fuel, too much short trip driving,
waiting too long to change the oil (this can cause sludging in the oil and oil vapors get burnt in the combustion chamber due to the PCV valve- thus changing your oil too infrequently can contribute to this problem).
Try some Chevron techroline in the tank, you want the maximum effect, so wait til the tank is 1/4 full or less, add the techroline, then add a couple gallons to mix it and drive like that til its almost empty. then fill up.
Repeat this process once or twice more. If you do a lot of short trip operation, the usual culprit for causing carbon build up, try and get the car out on the highway at least once a week, if possible, for about 10 or 20 miles and this will help blow out the carbon and keep it from coming back.
A mechanic looked at my car today and couldn't find anything wrong that could have caused it. He came to the same conclusion you did. It was probably caused by excessive carbon build up in the engine which may have been caused by crappy fuel and a lot of short trip driving.
>> Before this happened, I heard a high pitched sound when starting the car.
I think you just answered this question yourself. I'd suspect a vacuum leak between the t/b and the manifold, although it could be elswhere.
Think about this: If it has a vacuum leak the engine is running lean because un-metered air made it to the burn process. This makes the engine run HOT and promotes the diesel effect all on its own.
You stated you heard a high pitch. Likely a vacuum leak. The hot engine with the vacuum leak and some un burned fuel in the cylinders will run-on as you explained.
In short, stop feeding it air and it will stop. Having said that I suspect your mechanic missed something in thier evaluation. Perhaps due to the temperature of the car or weather itself (or the mechanic?).
Find the air leak by listening to it. Look for hoses, cracks, loose couplers, ect. maybe even a loose or missing manifold bolt?
Good Luck,
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
>> Before this happened, I heard a high pitched sound when starting the car.
I think you just answered this question yourself. I'd suspect a vacuum leak between the t/b and the manifold, although it could be elswhere.
Think about this: If it has a vacuum leak the engine is running lean because un-metered air made it to the burn process. This makes the engine run HOT and promotes the diesel effect all on its own.
You stated you heard a high pitch. Likely a vacuum leak. The hot engine with the vacuum leak and some un burned fuel in the cylinders will run-on as you explained.
In short, stop feeding it air and it will stop. Having said that I suspect your mechanic missed something in thier evaluation. Perhaps due to the temperature of the car or weather itself (or the mechanic?).
Find the air leak by listening to it. Look for hoses, cracks, loose couplers, ect. maybe even a loose or missing manifold bolt?
Good Luck,
A quick way to check for what you say, is wave an (unlit) propane torch at the suspected leak area. If the idle changes, you've got a vacuum leak. You could be right but, when you have a vacuum leak in most places on the engine, it almost always causes a rough idle too.
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