3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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serious problem with my manual transmission 92/93 camry v6 E53
I dont have a camry, i have car with same parts in it though.
copy-and-paste of what i put in another forum:
I destroyed the already worn and outofspec bushing on the low or high [i forget how it's set up] cable.
to give you an idea of the symptoms, now when shifting into 2nd, 4th, and Reverse, I have no confidence I get into gear because of the change in feel, although it still works. its like massive loose feeling.
anyway.....
so, im ordering from that speed shop "speed source" .
------- got the bushings, installed , same problem------
ok the regular kit is fine , install takes about an hour.
that said, my problem is still present. still diagnosing. i want your thoughts, everyone.
yeah, its not slop though -- its way different. check out my video. its very hard to get into 2 ,4, and reversse gear once the engine is moving unless the engine is synched pretty close -- this is bad news bears. i hope i dont have to remove the trans and have it fixed/replaced. i did find a used camry se trans which i believe has a shorter final drive making it an interesting option. but, then again, doing all that crazy amount of work to remove the trans only to stick on some old ass replacement doesn't please me too much - and there's the possibility it will have problems.
there's so much play in the parts, as you can see in the video. im going to make another showing the problem at the shifter since i guess its hard to understand.
Similar issue too LL. I also have the SpeedSource shifter cable bushings that I installed last summer. Took care most of the slop but not all. Lexus no # 2 is here for help.
It could be a number of things, but im thinking it has to do with something in the box and not the cables. Could be some worn out shift forks or syncros?
Hey OP, does your tranny feel loose going into the even gears?
I did something to mine (ok, I was being a hoon and ripped on the shifter when I slotted 2nd, felt like something popped) last fall, and mine's pretty rubbery on the even gears; can't feel when reverse is engaged (meaning I have to shift into reverse 2-3 times to ensure that I don't grind), and when I slot 2 or 4, I can pull the stick back a cm or 2 (but it pulls itself back like it's got an elastic or something).
Is your issue somewhat similar? (And if it isn't, can someone identify what's the busted part? sorry for light threadjack, OP)
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1993 Toyota Camry 3VZ 5-Speed
(Beige Beluga)
1989 Toyota MR2 3S-GTE 5-Speed (Din)
Need performance parts?
Shoot me a PM, I'll see what I can do
it is precisely the same problem as mine and circumstances.
what exactly is the problem not 100 per cent sure yet. im going to attempt to remove the belllcrank lever located on the trans. it is the thing the cables connect to. im hoping the little rubber parts on it are just fried.
my friends, you shouldn';t drive a lot with this problem you realize that its important for the internal trans parts?
i drive very little . really just trying to figure out the problem... hopefully ihaven't caused other wear and tear. thank god i got torque enough to go 1 3 5. lol
if its not the bell crank lever, im going to attempt removal of the box [Shift and Select Lever assembly]. it appears you can just remove that wihtout dropping the trans. that thing had springs in it and two levers that go on to actuate the actual shift forks / shafts.
really doubt shift fork/shaft is messed up. probably the weaker things like springs and rubber are broken in the two things im going to inspect. hopefully. obviouslly, i will update with my results. if anyone has done what i am about to do, please give advice or experiences or back me up on what im doing. im all ears. i never pulled this part off this car before.
You state several things. Feels like rubber, moves further one way than the other, and it doesn't stay in gear.
Is this correct?
Two things come to mind. It's Broke!
Next thing: It sounds like you lost the keeper (a big heavy gauge C-clip) on the mainshaft allowing the whole gear set 1 - 4 to slide out the back of the trans. Although it shouldn't affect 5th as it stands alone. Because of the design where all the parts go onto the shaft from one end, well it explains why one direction is OK while the other relies on a keeper and acts strange.
During selection of gears 1st and 3rd the shift forks shove the sliders forward towards the input shaft (clutch asm). This appears stable. Gears 2 and 4 shove the synchros and slider towards the rear of the trans and it seems like the whole assembly is sliding back with the movement of the shift forks. There are four shift forks. 1 & 2 share. 3 & 4 share. 5th and rewind (reverse) stand alone.
What I need to know is this. Did it happen over night or has it been progressively getting worse? Overnight implies a keeper. Time implies a bearing. No noise increase implies keeper. The other item to question are shift rails and detents. If the lockouts fail and the detents are weak this could give the mushy stick feeling and allow it to move further than it should while not holding it in gear.
Pull the plug. how much metal do you see? Lots = bearing. Little = keeper OR shift rail detents/shift rail lockout pins.
Shift rail detents may be fixed from the outside. Bearings and keepers - pull the trans.
Sorry man. . .
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
Ok, so, this is somewhat confusing. I tried to make it clear by saying the poster was exactly correct. If you read that, which I dont blame you for not reading it since these threads can get confusing, you would know that it happened after the moronic hard shifting incident, but most of us have a lot of flop from worn out bushings at the bellcrank lever, and whatever else is worn. I am embarassed to say this, but I may have shifted into second gear before the clutch was full disengaged, and yet [or alone] I shifted very hard into second gear, and then the real problem happened with the 2 , 4, and R gear engagement.
In neutral, engine off, the problem which manifests are extra allowable travel even after the gear is engaged, is there but getting into gear is no big deal. but driving, anything that makes the syncro have to work hard [normal driving] is when difficult to get the 2nd to engage, 4th sometimes. if i rev match, then its easy. you see, engine off, and when driving but rev matching, very little force is needed since syncro is hardly needed. please don't say syncro problem because if you do you do not understand what I am saying. reread in that case.
i dont think its a bearing dude cause the thing runs just as quiet and smooth etc, but, i can't say for sure without at least draining some fluid to see if its contaminated like galaxy - or splitting open my trans.
Reverse is afflicted the same exact way as 2 and 4. The only other thing that was not from the shifting thing is that reverse has been hard to do, and I always assumed it was related to the worn out ness that we all have assumed was the cable to bell crank lever at tranny bushings. maybe these trans are normally like that, or, something else wears out too, or is aging process -- but i dont know.
so, it may be what you said, or what I am thinking, i guess? if what I said as the situation that caused the problem sounds familiar to you based on previous experiences with this failure mode let us know.
A video is coming of what the shifter looks like.
I appreciate the high level manual/standard transaxle talk "73sport", and everyone who has chimed in so far.
Does it stay in gear under a load? (2 & 4)
Is there junk (metal) on the magnet?
If you crawl under and shift from the input shaft, do you feel a detent where it should go into gear but keeps going a little further?
I think you have another issue with rewind. All forward gears have synchromesh to align the transmissions internal clutch-dog to the output shaft and connect the power of the input shaft to the cluster gear to the output shaft. Reverse does not.
For Reverse to be successful, you need to stop all action in the gear box for parts to align. Even then, some of us have to engauge the clutch just to tad to move gears into a position. Perhaps your clutch diaphram is not disengauging completely? Although the clutch does not slip, they can wear to a point that they don't let go of the clutch disk completly either.
Couple the slop and bum clutch will explain reverse. The slam-daddy shifting could have pushed one of those frail bushings over the edge or done damage inside as I expressed above.
Can you look into the questions? The trans could use an oil change anyway, right?! PS - cold weather doesn't help a trans with the wrong oil in it. It makes them all stiff and hard to select all gears until warm. Any chance this is ALSO playing a roll?
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
I'm going to be pulling out the "shift & select lever" assembly since it looks easy to do and offers a few possible easily found points of failure, one would be the springs. I can't do it due to inclement weather. I bought gear oil 80w-90, cheap walmart brand [1gal + 1quart]. Once the weather and snow is addressed, i will be removing the shift lever assembly hopeful that something obvious is found in that. otherwise, I think I will be forced to remove the transmission and either fix it or replace it [or drive it 'till it dies like we do in ghetto jersey]. Hey, as long as I have 3rd gear, I can technically get by ok for several years.
here are pics from [ repair guide manual factory service e-53 manual transmission toyota lexus] of the assembly:
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Beige Beluga
and ripped on the shifter when I slotted 2nd, felt like something popped) last fall, and mine's pretty rubbery on the even gears; can't feel when reverse is engaged (meaning I have to shift into reverse 2-3 times to ensure that I don't grind), and when I slot 2 or 4, I can pull the stick back a cm or 2 (but it pulls itself back like it's got an elastic or something).
I tried to make it clear by saying the poster was exactly correct. If you read that, which I dont blame you for not reading it since these threads can get confusing, you would know that it happened after the moronic hard shifting incident, but most of us have a lot of flop from worn out bushings at the bellcrank lever, and whatever else is worn. I am embarassed to say this, but I may have shifted into second gear before the clutch was full disengaged, and yet [or alone] I shifted very hard into second gear, and then the real problem happened with the 2 , 4, and R gear engagement. 
. I really gotta look into this to solve my problems too.
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