3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I drive a 2000 Toyota Camry V6 automatic. While driving my transmission shifts hard in every gear. I knotice it more while city driving when I'm accelerating from stop lights or stop signs. Sometimes when I put my car into reverse it slams into gear and my car will jerk and when I put it in drive I hear a clunk. When I'm driving at high speeds on the interstate everything seems fine. I have taken it to transmission shops to get it looked at. I was told that I would have to spend $1,500 to $3,000 to get the transmission rebuilt. Is there anything I can do that will be cheaper? I just bought this car 4 months ago.
You could try find a transmission shop that sells used transmissions and hope that the one you would purchase lasts a while.
Other than that, you'll have to rebuild. Sounds like you're torque converter has gone out.
You could try find a transmission shop that sells used transmissions and hope that the one you would purchase lasts a while.
Other than that, you'll have to rebuild. Sounds like you're torque converter has gone out.
Do you think I could get that done for $800- $1000?
I'm not sure what the kick-down is but When I half stomp the gas the rpms will lower when it changes gear.
rpms will lower? Maybe I'm misunderstanding. What should happen with kick-down is that (1) you half-stomp the pedal (2) the transmission downshifts so your rpms go up, and you accelerate faster (3) eventually you reach the new cruising speed, your transmission upshifts and your rpms go back down.
rpms will lower? Maybe I'm misunderstanding. What should happen with kick-down is that (1) you half-stomp the pedal (2) the transmission downshifts so your rpms go up, and you accelerate faster (3) eventually you reach the new cruising speed, your transmission upshifts and your rpms go back down.
Is that happening OK?
Yes, when I half-stomp the pedal my transmission downshifts and the rpms go up. Then when I reach the new crusing speed my transmission upshifts and the rpms go back down. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
rpms will lower? Maybe I'm misunderstanding. What should happen with kick-down is that (1) you half-stomp the pedal (2) the transmission downshifts so your rpms go up, and you accelerate faster (3) eventually you reach the new cruising speed, your transmission upshifts and your rpms go back down.
Is that happening OK?
Quote:
Originally Posted by branden
Yes
OK, so much for the simple fix (I'd hoped that maybe your kickdown cable was misadjusted so that it was basically in kickdown mode all the time...that'll cause harsh shifting).
Do you know what transmission fluid is in the tranny right now and/or did the tranny shop change out your fluid while troubleshooting? Generally, the wrong fluid tends to cause slippage more than harsh shifting, but a fluid exchange for a known Dexron III fluid is way cheaper than a new tranny.
Do you think I could get that done for $800- $1000?
No. The problem is that SOME mechanics run a fixed cost to get a certain job done. That is a X dollar rate by the assumed job time to get done. If mechanics are faster than that time, they are profitable. So assuming it takes a fixed 10hrs to complete the job of pulling out and reinstalling the transmission having fixed the torque converter, that's 10 x $80/hr. leaving a base cost of 800, plus the cost of parts, which the torque converter is probably $300-500. I would expect at least $1500 for that job alone, plus whatever extra for whatever else is damaged.
From the sounds of it, your torque converter is definitely gone, and if every gear is shifting poorly or slipping, all of those gears need replacing too. I would expect to pay at least $2000.
You could probably swap to a manual for $1500, if you know where to look for the parts.
OK, so much for the simple fix (I'd hoped that maybe your kickdown cable was misadjusted so that it was basically in kickdown mode all the time...that'll cause harsh shifting).
Do you know what transmission fluid is in the tranny right now and/or did the tranny shop change out your fluid while troubleshooting? Generally, the wrong fluid tends to cause slippage more than harsh shifting, but a fluid exchange for a known Dexron III fluid is way cheaper than a new tranny.
I don't know what transmission fluid is in it but when I bought the car a few months ago the fluid looked like it was just changed.
Yeah definitely drop the pan and inspect it. If there metal chunks or pieces its done for. If there isnt change the fluid and add some lucas transmission fix.
This could keep it running for a bit longer.
You could probably get a used tranny dropped in for 1300-1500ish.
I would definitely start off with what pgmomni said.
There's always a chance that the tranny fluid needs to be changed. I don't know why, but old fluid causes similar symptoms.
If you change your fluid and fixed the problem, you've invested $100. But if you've got your fluid changed, and found out that your tranny is still bad, well, you've lost $100.
Beats paying +$1500 if all you needed was a fluid change.
I would definitely start off with what pgmomni said.
There's always a chance that the tranny fluid needs to be changed. I don't know why, but old fluid causes similar symptoms.
If you change your fluid and fixed the problem, you've invested $100. But if you've got your fluid changed, and found out that your tranny is still bad, well, you've lost $100.
Beats paying +$1500 if all you needed was a fluid change.
Thanks for the reply (great resource!). I've read a number of other guides on the inner workings of torque converters and I still don't see the connection that you made. When the OP says that "[w]hen I'm driving at high speeds on the interstate everything seems fine", it is assumed that the stator freewheels correctly and fluid flows nicely in the TC, right? At low speeds, the stator could be freewheeling (incorrectly) but that would result in poor acceleration performance, which the OP hasn't mentioned. I guess I'm failing to see which problem on the part of the torque converter results in the transmission's hard shifting at lower speeds. Thanks so much for your help, hope I'm not disrupting this thread too much.
auto transmissions are magic devices created long ago that even to this day no one really understands how they work.
but like the other guys said, harsh shifting could be caused by low fluid(check with engine running and fully warmed up!) or improper fluid type. clunking is most likely from worn/broken motor mounts.
who the hell knows, maybe the PO was towing trailers uphill all the time and the poor bastard is toast.
maybe they blasted out all the crap that was holding it together with one of those "power flushes".
high mileage car? probably just changed the black burnt fluid right before they sold it.
theres too many things to guess at. hope for the best!
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Transmission Dying. Please Help.
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