1995 Camry V6 A/T issues

[SnoFox4]

Hi,

I know I've posted about this before a long time ago, but since then I've learned that the O/D light is flashing due to a torque converter problem.

'95 V6 A/T w/ 194.5K miles.

I had the trans fluid changed 1K miles ago, and it's actually shifting worse.

The car used to have very smooth shifts from 2-3, and 3-4. But now it bumps into every gear and when I hit the gas it doesn't downshift + the RPMs go way up while the car is accelerating (without downshifting). I've also noticed that when I coast the RPM's drop about ~1-2K when I release the pedal.

Is this all due to the torque converter?

Thanks,

Sno.

[hill8570]

What's the DTC (code) that you're getting?

[73sport]

When the ECU detects a fault the flashing O/D light is displayed and T/C lockup is disabled. That explains the RPM drop while coasting.

The engine rev when you nail it sounds bad though. What's the fluid look and smell like? Does it smell burned? Is it brown?

How many miles ago did the light start dancing? What kind of driving does it get?

I'll take a wild stab and GUESS that you looked up the error code the first time and it was for the torqure converter not locking up? yes, no?

If it was t/c one way clutch (sprag clutch), she may be done. Stop the damage and get a new t/converter or fry the whole trans. . .

^+1 need the old and new error codes.

[SnoFox4]

I'd like to say that I drive the car pretty nicely, mostly city miles though, and occasional on-ramp WOT while trying to merge in front of a semi.

I'll go check the fluid when I check the DTC, which pins do I hit to put it into diagnostic mode?

I can't recall the actual code it had, so I'll check it again.

EDIT: The fluid is slightly brownish but mostly red, and smells fine.

[hill8570]

Originally Posted by SnoFox4

I'll go check the fluid when I check the DTC, which pins do I hit to put it into diagnostic mode?

I can't recall the actual code it had, so I'll check it again.

IIRC, the '95 V6 was OBD II, so you have to use a code reader...you can't just jumper something and read the blinking lights.

[SnoFox4]

There is still the OBDI diagnostic thing under the hood though? I have an OBDII reader, but I don't think it will work with that connector.

Car was built in 06/95.

[SnoFox4]

I found out from my sister (the previous owner) that the car has a bad T/C lock-up solenoid and has had this problem for about 20K miles.

[JohnGD]

IIRC, the law requires that an OBD-II connector be within 1 ft of the steering wheel column. So if you see a connector under the hood, it's the standard diagnostics connector (the kind where you jumper things like Tc1, E1, FP, etc). You'll also see an emissions label under the hood. It should say "OBD II Certified" or something like that.

Originally Posted by SnoFox4

There is still the OBDI diagnostic thing under the hood though? I have an OBDII reader, but I don't think it will work with that connector.

Car was built in 06/95.

[JohnGD]

Your local parts store may offer free code reading service. So you might want to make use of that. Sometimes the lock-up solenoid may be because of faulty wiring. So you kinda have to check the solenoid before replacing it.

Have you ever dropped the pan to wipe clean the metal sludge? I'd change out the strainer as well, because the old gasket may become brittle and cause a suction side leak.

What type of ATF was used? You might want to try a High Mileage ATF that's GM Dexron III compatible, for example, Valvoline MaxLife ATF. (D-III name is no longer licensed, so you'll find only "D-III compatible". I wouldn't use the thin Dexron VI.)

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/37

Originally Posted by SnoFox4

I found out from my sister (the previous owner) that the car has a bad T/C lock-up solenoid and has had this problem for about 20K miles.

[SnoFox4]

The only other diagnostic port is a circular one underneath the dashboard.

I'm sure that it hasn't been dropped and cleaned, but I feel like it's so worn at this point that a rebuild will be required by the next fluid change.

[JohnGD]

Hmmm, Autozone's free repair guide suggests OBD-II's D-connector for that year. Oh well.

But if it's OBD-I then follow the directions on AZ and jumper some connectors to see the MIL light flash the error codes.

Originally Posted by SnoFox4

The only other diagnostic port is a circular one underneath the dashboard.

I'm sure that it hasn't been dropped and cleaned, but I feel like it's so worn at this point that a rebuild will be required by the next fluid change.