3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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My car is a 2000 camry with 130,000 miles. It is a 4 cylinder. It stalled several times today when the RPM was below 1000. I had this problem several times and I can not withstand it any more. I used to spray SEA FOAM as learned from this forum. It will delayed the stall. Last time I had the same situation was about 5 months ago.
I think spray the SEA FOAM without removing the throttle body can not solve the problem thoroughly. So I tried to remove the throttle body and clean it. I had a Haynes Manual and I almost succeeded. I failed at the last step. There were two hoses, called "water bypass hose" in the manual, which were attached to the bottom of the IAC. They were two black plastic hoses. There were steel rings on them to tighten them. I also succeeded to move the ring downward to plastic part. However, no matter how hard I pull, the hoses could not be moved even a single inch.
Would you please tell me how can I remove two hoses?
If it is too hard to DIY, how much will it cost in a repair shop? I called them and they said they did not do cleaning but only replacing the IAC. I searched on the Internet. It costs about 200 dollars. Is there any places I can find cheaper ones? How much will the labor cost?
There were two hoses, called "water bypass hose" in the manual, which were attached to the bottom of the IAC. They were two black plastic hoses. There were steel rings on them to tighten them. I also succeeded to move the ring downward to plastic part. However, no matter how hard I pull, the hoses could not be moved even a single inch.
Would you please tell me how can I remove two hoses?
Twist the hoses from side to side until they break loose, then pull off. Helps to be holding on with a dry rag...gives a bit better grip. Remember, these are coolant hoses, so be prepared to plug them to keep from getting coolant everywhere (or drop your coolant down a few inches in the radiator before removing the hoses).
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibfly
...I searched on the Internet. It costs about 200 dollars. Is there any places I can find cheaper ones?
$200 seems pretty good for new OEM part...best I've seen is around $225 plus shipping. I'd probably try cleaning up the old IAC real good first, and test operation off the rig before thinking about replacing the part. You can find aftermarket stuff around $125, and junkyard pulls around $30 (I'd probably go junkyard pull before aftermarket -- these beasts are pretty hard to kill).
go on yelp and find an honest mechanic. I've been getting my iac valve cleaned for $65. Once every 2 years- it was my mechanic who actually insisted of cleaning it over replacing it since he's worked for toyota/lexus for years before he opened his own small shop. good luck!
Twist the hoses from side to side until they break loose, then pull off.
If it fits, use a pair of wide pliers to do the twisting; narrow/needle-nose pliers can damage old hoses (if only narrow pliers fit, just be careful). Once you break it free it's easier to pull off. My 2000 Camry is extremely high mileage as well, and every time I've had to remove ANY hose... it was hell. Persistence is key. =)
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
You can google up plenty of IAC cleaning tips and videos. I'd try cleaning it first. This is a common problem with Toytoas since they don't use a stronger stepper motor to control IAC.
A clean IAC valve should feel springy when you push on it. A bottle of throttle body cleaner (~$6) and a new IAC gasket (~$2) and some of your time would be a better way than a new valve that will plug up later.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibfly
If it is too hard to DIY, how much will it cost in a repair shop? I called them and they said they did not do cleaning but only replacing the IAC. I searched on the Internet. It costs about 200 dollars. Is there any places I can find cheaper ones? How much will the labor cost?
Clean the vanes in the IAC very well. ( The vanes are the size and shape of two razor blades, they open and close to allow in less air at idle and more as the engine warms up.) This is where the crud is that affects its operation.
I'd buy several feet of cooling hose first before removing the hoses, in case you have to cut them off. If you cut them, they'll probably be too short, so i'd be prepared to cut new hose and change them out. If you do have to cut them, do it only an inch or two from the iac, and have a couple bolts of the right size to plug the holes so your coolant doesnt all run out while your iac is removed from the hoses.
When i replace hoses, i always add in several inches of slack, when i cut the hose length whenever possible, for just this eventuality in the future.
$200 is a lot. If the IAC functions at all, usually a good cleaning makes it good as new. If you find you must replace, I'd at least visit the junkyard first?
One valuable tip i found on a post here: some people like to splice in a cheap fuel filter (the clear kind you get for a couple dollars at the auto parts). They splice it in the pcv line that goes to the throttle body. This is a great idea because it catches a lot of the oil vapors before they can reach the throttle body area, and will greatly extend the the interval between cleaning the IAC and throttle body.
Last edited by AlmightyCamry777; 02-13-2010 at 01:02 PM.
I sprayed a lot of SEA FOAM into the valve through the throttle body hole. It works fine today. Does that mean my IAC is good and I don't need to buy a new one?
If I can get the IAC valve out of the throttle body, how can I clean it? Do I just need to spray the SEA FOAM to the top of the step motor? Will that be effective? Or do I need to disassemble the step motor and clean the inside?
From your replies, I think there is no shortcut to remove the hoses. I think plier may be a good idea. Is it hard to get it twisted? I found my rubber hoses sticked to the pipe. I pulled really hard and it never moved.
I would like to know if I can do a cleaning of IAC finally, will the problem come back again after several months?
Thank you very much! You really have a lot of experience!
I would not get used to using seafoam if that becomes the "maintenance"
I would take the fattest pliers or vicegrips you can put on the hose, and gently grip and twist it. if you see its only twisting the part that is gripped, jsut slowly work it back and forth. small quick movements can break the hose free from its death grip.
Ive had success taking a bent sewing needle and scraping along the edge of teh hose, until I can put it under the lip. then I try and use a small flathead screwdriver and try to shove it slowly between the hose and pipe. jsut a little bit.
then I start from the end thats lose and twist with pliers and such, slowly, working myself down the hose until it comes off
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