3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi, I have a reasonably old Toyota but only has 171k on it so i suppose its not too bad, but I digress. When my parents bought the car, they say it was unbelievably quiet (the engine and road-noise was minimal) now I can hear everything outside including a constant wind noise, I don't feel like changing my exhaust although it has gotten loud, it does cost money and it doesn't change the functionality of the car.
I put a small sub in my car a couple months ago (e3.8) and I'm beginning to be bothered by the amount of rattling the rear deck and plastic brake-light cover produces as well as the volume that I have to listen to the music to block out road noise. And my rear passenger door basically allows wind in. I'm not sure whether I have to replace the seals on my doors or add sound deadening material.
I am a student so I don't have much money and I really want this to be a cost effective renovation.
I've also heard that for the trunk, you can stuff it with cotton balls to deaden the sound?
I just need to get pointed in the right direction, with what to do to this car and how to do it.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by gosharik12; 02-17-2010 at 08:50 PM.
sell the sub should fix some of the rattling, replace the weather striping around that door either get the new stuff from toyota or some universal stuff from jcw,
monroe quick struts will help with road noise
if you dont want to sell the sub and not feeling quite boro then dynomat will be your homeboy, also ebay
search for seafoam and seafoam the brake line and gas, i dont recommend doing the oil on a 16 year old car, gonna open up new problems
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dump half the can in the gas tank, for the brake line i worded it retarted but you remove the brake booster hose and pour half the can in so the engine sucks it at a rate of just about to stall
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
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I've done seafoam, it didn't do anything. It may have lowered gas mileage actually. But that wasn't my question, I wanted to know how to sound proof my car essentially...
And monroe quick struts? how would they make the car less noisy, it's not like the noise is coming from the shocks... I just hear it seeping through the windows....
I've done seafoam, it didn't do anything. It may have lowered gas mileage actually. But that wasn't my question, I wanted to know how to sound proof my car essentially...
And monroe quick struts? how would they make the car less noisy, it's not like the noise is coming from the shocks... I just hear it seeping through the windows....
Your keep saying "noise". What kind of noise? wind noise? Suspension noise? A cat meowing in glove box...? You're answers are all here already:
Quote:
Originally Posted by chronoti
sell the sub should fix some of the rattling
That would be a good start. But keep it if you must.
Quote:
Replace the weather striping around that door either get the new stuff from toyota or some universal stuff from jcw,
This is also a good step to kill wind and exterior noise.
Quote:
monroe quick struts will help with road noise
If there's suspension noise and you want an OEM feel.
Quote:
if you dont want to sell the sub and not feeling quite boro then dynomat will be your homeboy, also ebay
Dynomat. Please google this. ASG14 did his car.....silent.
Quote:
search for seafoam and seafoam the brake line and gas, i dont recommend doing the oil on a 16 year old car, gonna open up new problems
This will kill engine noise. Make sure you did it right. On a 16 year old car though... may wanna do it more than once or not at all in the first place.
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well also with the struts you going to reduce road noise think og how a stethoscope works, it picks up vibrations (noises) and lets it travel to your ears so you can hear it, new struts will reduce the amount of vibrations that they allow to travel to your ears.
but other than that mainly sound deading materal like dynomat will help the most
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Your keep saying "noise". What kind of noise? wind noise? Suspension noise? A cat meowing in glove box...? You're answers are all here already:
Well in my first post I wrote wind noise, but it doesnt matter. What I mainly want to know is what I should dynomat, I mean I know about it and I also know theres better stuff out there like eDead n such.. but I dont know where to start with it, how it exactly works, and where to put it...
When it comes to struts, how cheap yet have quality can I go because I truly dont have much money but I still would like to do a good job on it, if monroe is the cheapest thing I can find I don't think I can do that considering it'll end up being around 400-600 total for all 4 or maybe 300 for just the rears, I dont really know.
I also want to thank everyone that responded, I appreciate it =)
check ebay for the struts, why i say the quick strut is there is a bearing in the top of the strut and if you price everything it cost less for the quick strut, but you could cut corners like not replacing the bearing, springs, and boot covers, then with some elbow grease you can nail this out in a weekend with some rental tools for about 400, with the risk of shorter strut life (bad boot covers), knocking (bad bearing) and soggy ride ( bad springs)
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they have it for less, they are a very trusted site for everyone here, haven't heard one bad thing about them, also the universal you will have to get welded chances are tho that there is prolly sections that need replacing so getting the premade sections can save some time and money because they dont need welding and you could do it your self, also just going to a small independent shop work well, because shipping tends to eat up some of the savings, get a quote and then compare your options
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lol you got me thinking i found this
check ebay for the struts, why i say the quick strut is there is a bearing in the top of the strut and if you price everything it cost less for the quick strut, but you could cut corners like not replacing the bearing, springs, and boot covers, then with some elbow grease you can nail this out in a weekend with some rental tools for about 400, with the risk of shorter strut life (bad boot covers), knocking (bad bearing) and soggy ride ( bad springs)
are you saying if i buy the new struts they can break easier and basically work worse overall...? or maybe you worded it weird... cuz that doesnt seem to make sense?
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