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Old 02-20-2010, 04:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Brake light randomly comes on

I'm sorry if this has already been discussed, but I don't remember seeing anything about it in the recent months.

Today, the brake light on the gauge cluster came on a few times randomly. Each time, it seemed to happen after being parked. Then it turned off several seconds after resuming the drive.

I remember this happening several years ago as well. The "issue" went away on it's own.

Do any of you know why this may happen? Could it be a sign of a problem with the drum brakes?
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Old 02-20-2010, 04:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Top off the brake fluid in the reservoir. That usually fixes it!
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Old 02-20-2010, 10:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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^ In addition to what eyeball96 said about the brake fluid level, have the brakes checked for worn out pads/shoes in the near future. When the fluid level get's that low it may mean the pads have worn down quite a bit and there is more travel for the hydraulic system to make the brake shoes contact the rotor. Also, have the car inspected for any fluid leaks.

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Old 02-20-2010, 11:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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mine came on and off even when i am in drive, turns out i need new rear pads, when it is on and off i couldn't even use the cruise control
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Old 02-20-2010, 11:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
^ In addition to what eyeball96 said about the brake fluid level, have the brakes checked for worn out pads/shoes in the near future. When the fluid level get's that low it may mean the pads have worn down quite a bit and there is more travel for the hydraulic system to make the brake shoes contact the rotor. Also, have the car inspected for any fluid leaks.

Mike
this is much more important than just topping off the brake fluid.

i did this with my truck thinking it just topping it off solved the problem. a little time later i needed new pads and rotors.

dont just top off.
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Old 02-20-2010, 09:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I need to quit writing posts when I'm half asleep.

I haven't had the brake light come on like this in so long I completely forgot it's not only for the e-brake.

The brake pads themselves were still ok when I did suspension work the other month, so those are good to go.

I think I may need to work on my rear drum brakes or maybe replace them entirely. They have never been touched... and 340,000+ miles old... is it about time? I hear a sort of slight hissing noise from the rear when I brake. The entire rear interior of the car is gone at the moment, so I hear everything much louder. It's sort of hissing/braking noise from the rear wheels. Is that normal?
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Old 02-21-2010, 11:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Good advice +1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
^ In addition to what eyeball96 said about the brake fluid level, have the brakes checked for worn out pads/shoes in the near future. When the fluid level get's that low it may mean the pads have worn down quite a bit and there is more travel for the hydraulic system to make the brake shoes contact the rotor. Also, have the car inspected for any fluid leaks.

Mike
+1.
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Old 02-21-2010, 05:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haux View Post
I need to quit writing posts when I'm half asleep.

I haven't had the brake light come on like this in so long I completely forgot it's not only for the e-brake.



I think I may need to work on my rear drum brakes or maybe replace them entirely. They have never been touched... and 340,000+ miles old... is it about time?
The longest ive seen rear shoes last is about 150k. Its definitiely time for new shoes, drums and a hardware kit. It probally wont be to fun to get those old drums off either after 340k.

Youll be amazed at how much the rear brakes actually help.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by carsrus View Post
The longest ive seen rear shoes last is about 150k. Its definitiely time for new shoes, drums and a hardware kit. It probally wont be to fun to get those old drums off either after 340k.

Youll be amazed at how much the rear brakes actually help.
Dangit. More money I gotta spend. It never ends!
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

I had the same problem in the beginning of Winter. I recently took my car to the mechanic and had him flush and replace the brake fluid. After this, the light went off and my brakes seemed to function better than they did before the flush. I was noticing the brakes weren't functioning properly and it felt like I was braking on the metal instead of the actual brake pad. Afterward, my brakes felt like they should after being normally engaged.
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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To update, brake fluid level is fine, and I know the brake pads are fine. However, the light hasn't come on since that one day.

By the way, along with never having replaced anything in the rear drums, I've also never drained the fluid from the rear lines.

I've been thinking about replacing them with disc brakes. Would that drastically improve braking?
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Since my last post, the BRAKE light has been off until Tuesday. Specifically, immediately after I had my catalytic converter replaced. As soon as I started the car to drive off, the BRAKE light was on. Later I checked the fluid reservoir, and it was slightly below the minimum line. I topped it off the following day and the light is still on.

As far as I know, there are no brake lines near the converter. Could anything have been damaged there during the cutting and welding?
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:34 AM   #13 (permalink)
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E-brake is partially on. Folks find this happens more often as the brakes become less effective. Meaning, the last 9/10 of travel finally holds the car, but the first 1/10 doesn't have enough return spring capacity to seat the lever and the light stays on.


Edit - prolly cuz the guy hung his light on the cable while doing the job!
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73sport View Post
E-brake is partially on. Folks find this happens more often as the brakes become less effective. Meaning, the last 9/10 of travel finally holds the car, but the first 1/10 doesn't have enough return spring capacity to seat the lever and the light stays on.


Edit - prolly cuz the guy hung his light on the cable while doing the job!
There was no light. This was a small-time shop, and I was standing maybe ten feet away from the guy. He busted out a saw, cut the thing off, slapped on the new cat and started welding.

Can the e-brake become partially on if the drum brakes are old and the components are worn?
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yes, but either are prone: Especially if the lever/handle must be moved all the way to the extreme before tension is felt. Worn and out of adjusted e-brakes can lead to this happening by accident as the spring tension does not overcome the ratchet mechanism to return the levers all the way to the fully seated off position.

Is your model a pull handle or foot lever? Eitherway, simply Push it (handle) all the way down to test the switch or Pull the foot lever all the way UP to seat that type of switch while sitting still. The light should go off.

That is not to say you don't have some other issue - you might! I'm just saying, check this first.

You still need to inspect the rear. Thats allot of miles!
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Last edited by 73sport; 03-26-2010 at 04:24 PM.
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