3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Hi guys. I just ordered some NGK spark plug wires and got a new set of NGK spark plugs (OE replacement) for my car since I'm doing a full tune up on the car. The car was bought with 165,000 miles and I don't know how well the previous owner(s) took care of it. I was at Kragen purchasing spark plugs and the guy mentioned something about using some sort of grease for where the spark plug wires connect to spark plug terminal nut. He said its suppose to lock out moisture and stuff... I don't know if there's any truth behind this$1.29 packet of grease so I thought I'd ask you guys about it first before I potentially ruin my investment. I've used antiseize on all my sparkplug threads when I've replaced them on my cars, but I've never heard of using this grease stuff for the terminal nut and wire connection. Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
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1998 Toyota Camry LE - Super White
2006 Scion tC - Black Cherry Pearl
dont they wires come with the grease packet? i remember putting some on mine when i changed em
I haven't received the wires yet. I just ordered them last night. I'm just wondering if it's a good idea to use that grease stuff or not? Does it really make much of a difference? Is there any benefit to using it?
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1998 Toyota Camry LE - Super White
2006 Scion tC - Black Cherry Pearl
It's called dialectric grease. It's a good practice to put a light coating of it on any of the high-voltage metal connections. It helps seal out moisture (high voltage and moisture are a bad combo) and makes it a bit easier to get the connectors off in the future. It's non-conductive, so go easy on it -- just as with anti-seize, a little goes a long way. FWIW, the Toyota OEM wires come with some. OTOH, you can get by without it, so don't stress if you don't have any.
It's called dialectric grease. It's a good practice to put a light coating of it on any of the high-voltage metal connections. It helps seal out moisture (high voltage and moisture are a bad combo) and makes it a bit easier to get the connectors off in the future. It's non-conductive, so go easy on it -- just as with anti-seize, a little goes a long way. FWIW, the Toyota OEM wires come with some. OTOH, you can get by without it, so don't stress if you don't have any.
Thanks for the info. How would you go about with the coating and where do you coat? A detailed description would be great.
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1998 Toyota Camry LE - Super White
2006 Scion tC - Black Cherry Pearl
I've always just applied that grease to the white ceramic insulator of the plug, not on the terminal.
I've actually used anti-seize when I didn't have the dielectric grease. It does the same thing, it prevents the wire boot from sticking to the plug, and seal out moisture.
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"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country." - Kurt Vonnegut
Thanks for the info. How would you go about with the coating and where do you coat? A detailed description would be great.
You smear a light coating on the ceramic part of the plugs (where the boot would contact), and around the outside of the distributor sockets (if you have a dizzy). Try not to get any on the contacts themselves, but a little bit usually won't hurt.
I've actually used anti-seize when I didn't have the dielectric grease. It does the same thing, it prevents the wire boot from sticking to the plug, and seal out moisture.
I'm somewhat amazed that would work -- most anti-seize is at least somewhat conductive...I'd think that you'd be flirting with flashover down the insulator with that.
I'm somewhat amazed that would work -- most anti-seize is at least somewhat conductive...I'd think that you'd be flirting with flashover down the insulator with that.
I only did that twice on two different cars. I didn't have any problems either time. Since then, I always pick up a little pack of dielectric grease when I buy plugs.
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"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country." - Kurt Vonnegut
Oh, so a thin layer is applied to the insulator. Okay, I understand now. I was confused because I thought that it was suppose to be applied to the terminal and I was wondering why because I thought it would mess up the electrical connection. Thanks for the clarification guys.
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1998 Toyota Camry LE - Super White
2006 Scion tC - Black Cherry Pearl
I always applied a good coat of Mystik JT-6 MP grease to the threads so the plugs come out easy later on.
Playing fast and loose there, too. MP grease ain't conductive, so your ground contact for the plug (through the thread / head contact) is not going to be as good as it could be. That's why anti-seize is conductive.
During the initial installation of spark plugs and boots, at least for good brands like NGK, there is supposedly no need to apply these. However, it's a good idea to use plug anti-seize and boot dielectric grease to aid in removal later.
I also use a torque wrench for the plugs. The metal case of the plug can stretch when overtorqued, cracking the ceramic insulator inside.
Hi guys. I just ordered some NGK spark plug wires and got a new set of NGK spark plugs (OE replacement) for my car since I'm doing a full tune up on the car. The car was bought with 165,000 miles and I don't know how well the previous owner(s) took care of it. I was at Kragen purchasing spark plugs and the guy mentioned something about using some sort of grease for where the spark plug wires connect to spark plug terminal nut. He said its suppose to lock out moisture and stuff... I don't know if there's any truth behind this$1.29 packet of grease so I thought I'd ask you guys about it first before I potentially ruin my investment. I've used antiseize on all my sparkplug threads when I've replaced them on my cars, but I've never heard of using this grease stuff for the terminal nut and wire connection. Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
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