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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-10-2010, 03:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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98 Camry 5fse rebuild questions

Ok so im rebuilding my 98 camry 5sfe the oil pump went bad and went on to spin a bearing so my crankshaft is ruined. well im going buy a new crank oil pump waterpump all new bearings and rings for the pistons the cylender walls are completely fine along with the pistons what else should i do before i buy all the stuff and rebuild and what oil should i run i was thinking like a ams oil full syn.
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Old 03-10-2010, 04:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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As far as the engine parts definately check out mizumoauto.com. I bought the gasket set, timing set and oil pump from there. Excellent quality and way less than the local sources. Amsoil makes great products, the best IMO. However, it is suggested (even by Amsoil) that you run a non synthetic oil for break in. I just use whatever cheap stuff I can get my hands on for the first hundred miles or so and then change. I usually run the cheap stuff for a couple hundred to a couple thousand more then do a flush and switch to synthetic. I would suggest Amsoil at that point. I'm sure others have a procedure that they use but I've had good luck with this method. If you do go the Amsoil route, make sure you use their air and oil filters as well.
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Old 03-10-2010, 04:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Get the head checked out and magnafluxed.

Amsoil is overkill for a econo car like a camry. Use mobile 1 and spend the money you save on something fun.
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Old 03-10-2010, 04:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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what would have happend to the head? not sure much could have gone wrong with it due to the pistons and cylinder being fine.
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Old 03-10-2010, 04:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Could be warped or have microcracks.
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Old 03-10-2010, 05:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Nothing wrong with Amsoil

There's nothing wrong with running a good quality synthetic like Amsoil. I have run it in a cheap 2000 Neon that now has 205,000 miles on it with no engine work other than a timing change preventative maintenance replacement at 100k. With the extended drain intervals capable with Amsoil, it may be cheaper per year than other oils that require more regular oil changes. You can look up all oil capacities here. There is also some information on the cost/year of Amsoil vs. normal oils here. You can save 15% to 25% off Amsoil retail prices by becoming a Preferred Customer and buying at Dealer cost.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hope this helps,
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Ok so im rebuilding my 98 camry 5sfe the oil pump went bad and went on to spin a bearing so my crankshaft is ruined. well im going buy a new crank oil pump waterpump all new bearings and rings for the pistons the cylender walls are completely fine along with the pistons what else should i do before i buy all the stuff and rebuild and what oil should i run i was thinking like a ams oil full syn.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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How do you know the pistons and walls are fine? I mean its unlikely its been rebuilt before but be warned that it could have non-standard size piston and rings if its ever been overhauled before. => Meaning your stock size replacement rings will be the wrong size. Again, this is very unlikley just keep it in mind. Do you have means to accurately measure the bore, crank, rods? Can you take it to a shop and have them mic it for you?

Sure you can hone just about anything and toss new rings in it, but you're assuming the rod is good too, yes?

If the rod scored the crank beyond re-grinding to an undersize bearing, you likely need the rod replaced too. If this is the case now your taking a used piston and throwing it onto a used replacement rod.

Do consider the cost of this action vs buying a piston, piston ring, piston pin set.

Suggestion:
Get it all apart (if not already) and take it to the machine shop. Have them mic all the rod and main journals and see if the crank can be turned to a new undersize value. Example -0.010", -0.020", -0.030 in English units (sorry, not metric'cated yet!). Oh - measure the bores to for taper. . .

Have them measure the bum rod. Is it discolored? If not, it might be salvagable by means of regrinding the caps.

Do a walk in quote with no parts just to get an idea what they charge.

With this information you can make an informed decision and see if it's cost effective to follow this aproach vs getting in to deep and seeing the $$$$ rise out of range.

Let us know,
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Was the crank badly damaged? Can you just have the crank reground and polished?

I prefer Clevite bearings and rings. However, it's cheaper to pick up a complete rebuild kit, and most of them are by Federal Mogul (so you'll get Sealed Power).



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Originally Posted by Burnwithin View Post
Ok so im rebuilding my 98 camry 5sfe the oil pump went bad and went on to spin a bearing so my crankshaft is ruined. well im going buy a new crank oil pump waterpump all new bearings and rings for the pistons the cylender walls are completely fine along with the pistons what else should i do before i buy all the stuff and rebuild and what oil should i run i was thinking like a ams oil full syn.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The crank is not really that bad its just really small groves and can be polished but from what i found its costs around 140$ and ill spend the extra 100 to get a new one so i wont have to deal with the oversizing and i know the crank is good has no groves cuz i knew the moment the bearing spun and it prolly drove maybe 10 miles on it and the pistons are std due to im 3rd owner and the original is family.
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If a new one (OEM?) is only $240 then go for it and especially if you get to use select-fit bearings.

Marshall Engines sells reman ones for $227 (incl core charge, rockauto price). They include the bearings, so I guess must be oversized ones (no wonder).



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The crank is not really that bad its just really small groves and can be polished but from what i found its costs around 140$ and ill spend the extra 100 to get a new one so i wont have to deal with the oversizing and i know the crank is good has no groves cuz i knew the moment the bearing spun and it prolly drove maybe 10 miles on it and the pistons are std due to im 3rd owner and the original is family.
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Beings how you are going through all this, might I suggest some head work? I don't know what mileage is on the motor but a 12 year old engine would certainatly benefit from new valve seals and a good multi angle valve job. A basic cleanup of the ports and some judicious polishing will increase efficiency and probably let the motor breath a little better. It is a very small amount of money to have it done compared to the benefit of longevity, assurance and performance.

Just a thought

Ron
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