95 Camry V6 /A541E transmission problems - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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Old 03-11-2010, 01:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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USA 95 Camry V6 /A541E transmission problems

My transmission will not shift from 3rd to OD. Throttle position sensor and O/D Off indicator light have no affect if I push buttons while driving. any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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to Toyota Nation!

I'm moving your thread over to the Gen 3 & 4 Camry forum so the members there can help you out. However, you should still use that forum's search feature to see if your transmission issue has been covered in a past thread. Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hello O,
That's not much to go on. Any prior history of issues with the engine or trans? Can you duplicate this issue or is it intermittent?
Is the O/D light blinking?

What does the fluid look and smell like?

Two immediate things come to mind:
1) the ECU doesn't think the car is warm enough to shift into OD. i.e. the engine temp is reported as below 140 degrees (60C ?). Check coolant level and temp sensor.
2) The car thinks the brake is applied all the time/the cruise control disable circuit is engauged.

There's lots of switches and connections to check. Eitherway I'd take it to a shop and have them scan the system for error codes. This may require a test drive in your case if it hasn't set a code.

Tell us EVERYTHING that is different and anything that does't work. Test all gears and make sure the car is warm.

This manual may be of help to you.

http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen3/ax2.pdf

Good Luck!
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Old 03-11-2010, 06:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73sport View Post
Hello O,
That's not much to go on. Any prior history of issues with the engine or trans? Can you duplicate this issue or is it intermittent?
Is the O/D light blinking?

What does the fluid look and smell like?

Two immediate things come to mind:
1) the ECU doesn't think the car is warm enough to shift into OD. i.e. the engine temp is reported as below 140 degrees (60C ?). Check coolant level and temp sensor.
2) The car thinks the brake is applied all the time/the cruise control disable circuit is engauged.

There's lots of switches and connections to check. Eitherway I'd take it to a shop and have them scan the system for error codes. This may require a test drive in your case if it hasn't set a code.

Tell us EVERYTHING that is different and anything that does't work. Test all gears and make sure the car is warm.

This manual may be of help to you.

http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen3/ax2.pdf

Good Luck!
The only history of not up shifting was from 2nd to 3rd and only when the engine was cold. Usually I would have to accelerate to between 25-35mph and the car would then shift into 3rd. Once I did this the car had no problem shifting from 2nd to 3rd no matter how cold it was.
The new issue of not up shifting from 3rd to OD is relatively new. Initially it was intermittent, but now it is constant, will not ship to OD.
The O/D light is not blinking.
I have the factory repair manuals. I'm going to replace the engine coolant temp sensor. I just found out there is another one near the thermostat, should I replace that one also. Do you suggest I take it and have the car scanned for error codes? Would a faulty temp sensor or other show up?
My cruse control does work normally. Should I look into the cruise control disable circuit?
Thank you for your input.
O
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If the O/D light is not flashing, it thinks everything is OK. In this case you need to drive it with the scanner attached to see if anthing is in error.

Any other engine related issues? The fact that the Cruise works is good sign for trouble shooting but it may point to a deeper issue. The 2>3 shift not working when cold could be several other things. I doubt throwing parts at it is the solution right now. You have some time and basic understanding of electricity, do you own a hand held multimeter?

The 2>3 from 25-30 is pretty normal for a cold engine. I think you can hit 75 in second. Does it really seem odd, like the engine is over-reving when in 2nd at 30mph? Why does that stand out? If it didn't shift till ya hit 45 - 50, that would be of concern.

I think I'd go to a tranny shop, just don't let them out of your sight and ask lots a questions. Go for the ride along, because it has no hard errors. See what they say.

How many miles on it and what does the fluid look like?
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Many transmission shops will offer free code reading diagnosis. Some mom-and-pop shops may be willing to give you a free ride to check the problem. I'd say try that route. I'd first go with an ATRA member transmission shop:

http://www.atra.com/source/members/m...rch/search.cfm

The ECU can lock out OD when cold. So check the ECT sensor (2-wire deal, not the 1-wire gauge sender). When was the last time you changed the strainer and wiped clean the pan? The last time you changed ATF?

The older Aisin A541 series has problem with valve body wear. ATF pressure then leaks past the valves and cause accelerated wear in the clutch packs. This may be a suspect. The A-series have no decent filtration and are quite dirty.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
Many transmission shops will offer free code reading diagnosis. Some mom-and-pop shops may be willing to give you a free ride to check the problem. I'd say try that route. I'd first go with an ATRA member transmission shop:

http://www.atra.com/source/members/m...rch/search.cfm

The ECU can lock out OD when cold. So check the ECT sensor (2-wire deal, not the 1-wire gauge sender). When was the last time you changed the strainer and wiped clean the pan? The last time you changed ATF?

The older Aisin A541 series has problem with valve body wear. ATF pressure then leaks past the valves and cause accelerated wear in the clutch packs. This may be a suspect. The A-series have no decent filtration and are quite dirty.
My neighbor says he will help. I think he has a multimeter. What should we test for?
Additionally I'm certain I, with his help, can change the ATF and drop the pan to see if there are any concerns in the pan. I would not feel comfortable doing anything past that. Any and all suggestions are very appreciated.
Thanking everyone,
O
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Check the resistance of the ECT sensor. It decreases as temperature goes up. Search Autozone's free repair guide (w/ registration) on how.

If you are not getting MIL codes then the solenoids may still be OK. No guarantees. Not sure if AZ guide has wiring diagram and resistance numbers. A Fram ATF kit is about $13-15 IIRC, works well. Walmart Dexron III ATF is <$10/gallon. I think you need slightly more than 1 gal for both transmission and diff, so pick up a couple more quart bottles and return the unused ones. Measure what you drained out first. Also, do the differential fluid on level ground, same D-III.

I personally would use an inch-pound torque wrench on pan bolts and strainer bolts. However, calibrated elbows work too.



Quote:
Originally Posted by oveazeus View Post
My neighbor says he will help. I think he has a multimeter. What should we test for?
Additionally I'm certain I, with his help, can change the ATF and drop the pan to see if there are any concerns in the pan. I would not feel comfortable doing anything past that. Any and all suggestions are very appreciated.
Thanking everyone,
O

Last edited by JohnGD; 03-12-2010 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Question, I called a recycling parts specializing in Toyotas and asked for an ECU. They wanted to know what serial number was on the current one on the car. Where is this serial number located on the ECU? Where is the location of the ECU? I took my Camry and had a diagnostic test and found out the ECU is not sending the signal to the transmission to shift into OD.
Thanking all in advance,
O
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Old 04-29-2010, 06:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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ECU location, try looking on the passenger side near the firewall, or on the driver's side.
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