3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I bought this 2001 camry with 65k on it and it smokes blue at startup. Is this due to the valves seals the factory used? It did have quite a bit of sludge that i cleaned the best I could. I got the engine warm pulled the valve cover and went to work with a shopvac spray bottle with diesel and a toothbrush. I then dropped the pan and cleaned it out. Is the smoke at startup due to the valve seals or is this due to sludge? The car runs great and is very clean, too bad the second owner let the oil changes go. I was hoping to put another 100k or more on this car, my last one a 94 had 180k on it. Thanks for any info.
Did you git any piccies of the valve train before you started scrubbing on it? Any chance you can git the cover off, take some piccies and post them up?
I would recommend that you use some Auto-RX in yer engine and follow the procedure fer sludged engines. Just what ever you do...DON'T put any solvent based cleaner in yer engine!!
What brand of oil filter did you put on there? What brand and weight of oil did you put in? Did you do a compression test?
I'm gonna say you have some carbon on the seals and it's allowing the oil to leak past and into the engine. The Auto-RX may git that cleaned up fer you.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
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How much blue? Valve guides usually give a small "puff" of blue smoke at start-up, but it doesn't last for long. If you're smogging for mosquitoes for the first mile, then it's something else.
Did you replace the PCV valve? On a neglected engine, it will get very gunked up, causing pressure to build up and forcing oil into places (like past your rings) where you really don't want it to go.
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Yes I took pics before and after cleaning, I will try to figure how to post them on here. I use 5w30 castrol GTX high mileage and Fram filters. I had heard the the rubber Toyota used on the valve seals for this year was no good and they have since changed it. It only smokes blue for a few seconds just a puff of smoke at startup. I did run sea foam in it for 500 miles. Does the head need to be removed to replace the valve seals/guides?
No the valve guides can be removed without removing the cylinder head. All you have to do is remove the spark plug for the cylinder that you are going to be removing the seals and get a air fitting that will thread into the spark plug chamber and apply shop air into the combustion chamber to keep the valves from dropping. Or you can take the cylinder head off... up to you! Good Luck!!
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Yes I took pics before and after cleaning, I will try to figure how to post them on here. I use 5w30 castrol GTX high mileage and Fram filters. I had heard the the rubber Toyota used on the valve seals for this year was no good and they have since changed it. It only smokes blue for a few seconds just a puff of smoke at startup. I did run sea foam in it for 500 miles. Does the head need to be removed to replace the valve seals/guides?
It wasn't just your year -- seems like most Toyota engines have a problem with the valve seals hardening up. Matter of fact, Toyota seems to have a real problem with oil seals in general...most seem to be on borrowed time after 10 years.
Like Camrytuner20 said, you can replace those suckers without pulling the head -- just don't let the valves drop, then you do get to pull the head to fish out the pieces.
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Before making any decisions on replacing the valve seals, determine how much oil you are actually using. It may not be as much as you think. Have you done an oil consumption test yet?
Mike
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SInce the motor had sludge and I cleaned it I am changing the oil every 500 miles for a few change intervals. I don't think it is using much oil since its only at startup that it smokes. I have a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in it right now, heard this might help with valve seals.
No the valve guides can be removed without removing the cylinder head. All you have to do is remove the spark plug for the cylinder that you are going to be removing the seals and get a air fitting that will thread into the spark plug chamber and apply shop air into the combustion chamber to keep the valves from dropping. Or you can take the cylinder head off... up to you! Good Luck!!
You must be saying the valve SEALS as the guide aint common out anytime soon without yanking the head. - nadda!
An engine thats been overheated a few times will get the hard seals sooner. I'd refrain from putting things in that are supposed to reduce leaks.
Often times the chemicals that condition the the seals cause huge problems afterwards. Once those seals are done being expanded by the cure all mystery conditioner, they've removed the varnish where the seal rides, expanded the seal ever so slightly, and now it contracts when the chemical is gone and leaks everywhere else.
A compression test would be a good idea. Then add a drop of oil to the cylinders and repeat. If the pressure goes up, its the rings. No change, it the valve seats.
Does it do it hot start and cold start?
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