I should have said OUTER tie rod end (one with nail), its the one that looks wrong as if wrong nut, wrong taper, or wrong part.
Loosen the nut and tap the stud. If it pops out something is WRONG!
Safety first: its the steering. Don't be afraid to tighten it! A 9" box end wrench pulled at arm strength might yield 60 to 75ft/lbs. If something breaks or strips, better now than when hitting a pot hole at 75mph and having it fall of then.
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The wheel bearing seal is good at keeping its grease in. PERIOD!
The dust shield is to deflect water spray and gravel chunks thus preventing direct access to the seal. Don't violate the seal. You will pay for this!
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Don't worry about a torque wrench you won't break the nut or axel by doing this. Put a 2 to 3 foot breaker bar on that nut. Get the bar parallel to the ground and jump on it! This is WAY better than leaving it at 150ft/lbs b'cuz you don't own the right t/w!
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As for the wobble, vibration, noise;
Just as we all stated above, the axel will have no impact on the wheel runout unless you:
A) have bearing failure
B) the hub departed from the bearing (think loose nut)
C) you dropped a ball from the outer CV joint or inner trunion joint during axel install and its binding between the transaxle and the suspension. You can do this by pulling the joint apart during the axle install. If the builder didn't grease it good and you pulled the joint apart far enough, gravity will have consequences!
D) the wheel is not on the hub correctly. This is dangerous!
E) if the axle has runout, it's a reject! VERY unlikely, as you could drive over it and not bend it! But a Crash - a crash could bend it and IF they never checked it, maybe its the one in your car!!!!!!!! >. hint can you feel it at speeds of less than 44mph?
>> I suggest you place the car on jack stands front wheels in the air (do all that safety stuff too) and put it in low gear at idle. If the engine and trans are moving in an eccentric fashion you dropped a ball in an axel and its binding up. Watch the wheels for run out too. Stop everything and feel the boots for bulges (may not be easy on the inner).
As for an unbalnced axel, you need to be at speeds exceeding the capability of a 4banger. Not likely. See above. Bent = is possible tho.
>> By design isnt the axle supposed to sit snugly with the
steering knuckle? Wouldnt the dust boot grind against the steering knuckle?
NO - you have two options to fill that void. One is the counter ring for the anti-lock brakes the other is a stamped part. Its close to the knuckle but not touching. Call a axel rebuilder. I bet they send you a set for cheap.
How is the axle related to "swaying" wtf? Makes no sense, please try and explain what you're talking about.
Rank this: 1 - 10: would someone who never drove this car say, hey somethings wrong (5), it scared the hell out of me at 17mph (10) or is it so miner only you know it (1)??????
Gotta get. . .
Axle not seated properly in steering knuckle?[Images]
How I hate re-manufactured/New axles/halfshafts...I put in a reman Kragen drivers side axle yesterday and it doesnt seem to go all the way inside steering knuckle.
acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
Thats when I decided to work on my car myself
Afterall you dont pay people to mess up your car!!
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