Woble, torn boot puking grease, What do?

[DAT RICE]

My car, a couple a days ago started wobbling at all speeds. A technician who wanted to buy the car found out that the problem was driver-side half-shaft. I did some research but would like to know what i specifically need to replace here, do i need a whole new halfshaft? Here's a picture of my torn boot. All 3 of our cars just became out of commission simultaneously

[flyeri]

I have found several torn boots over the years and never had a wobble. Your boot has probably been torn for a while and now your wobble is coming from a bad cv joint. I would not stop short of a new shaft if it was mine. If you inspect a boot and it is good and wtihin a day or two you find it torn, you may get away with a new boot and some grease. I think you may be beyond that point.

[BMR]

You can replace only the CV joints, but it's not a whole lot more money to replace the entire halfshaft assembly.

If there's nothing wrong with the CV joint, and only the boot is torn, then only the boot can be replaced. In my opinion, usually when the boot is torn, the CV joint is not far from gone, and you're better off just replacing it.

[bdy0003]

You might as well get a new one so it won't be soon on your list later on. Its not that much more expensive if you bought a new axle.

[DAT RICE]

Thank you for the quick responses. Can you send me links or the exact part neames for the stuff? I'm looking for a quickfix but i can spend a little more. I can't find cv joints for sale, however there are A1 Cardone halfshafts $50; i hear bad things about their rebuilt rack and pinions... Please explain, i am very car oriented but have never worked with the shafts, joints, boots and bearing stuff.

[bdy0003]

If you want schematics and part numbers, http://www.toyotapartszone.com/ is a very good site. Just be sure to type in your VIN# to get accurate schematics.

As for rebuilt stuff, I'd spend a little more for new parts. I never changed my axles by myself. The time I had to replace my axles was the time I had to go back to school, so I really didnt have time to research everything and do it myself. There are others here that are far better at explaining things than me. Sorry I am of no help here.

[BMR]

If you opt to replace the halfshaft, I'd recommend staying away from the Cardone brand rebuilt units; I had a really awful experience with them. Had to replace one side 3 times before I got one that wasn't defective. Spend another $10 or $20 to get new ones. Should be about $70 or so.

If the CV joint isn't clicking or making any noise on sharp right turns, and money is tight, there is a "quick boot kit" that can be installed without removing the halfshaft. They're about $20. They are tricky to get installed correctly; gotta keep the dirt and grease from getting into the seam and preventing the bonding from working well. And they have a reputation of not lasting very long.

[Novice_cardude]

Just get a new or rebuilt one. Easy to pop in and out, especially on the driver's side.

And your wobble isn't from a bad joint. It's most likely caused by uneven grease distribution on the inside of your wheel, throwing the assembly out of balance. Just clean it all off really well when you have the axle out, and you should be good.

[inuhbad]

I'd definitely replace the whole half-shaft.

They don't cost too much, and it's something you can do yourself on a weekend with some hand tools, a repair manual, and some patience... It will save you some HUGE bucks over what some stealerships and commercial shops will charge you!

[JohnGD]

Since repacking the existing one is out of the question, I'd either go with a new Cardone Select or get a rebuilt from the dealer. BTW, if yours is that bad, you might not get the core cost back.

Have to make sure if yours is a bolt-on or plug-in type axle.

Originally Posted by DAT RICE

My car, a couple a days ago started wobbling at all speeds. A technician who wanted to buy the car found out that the problem was driver-side half-shaft. I did some research but would like to know what i specifically need to replace here, do i need a whole new halfshaft? Here's a picture of my torn boot. All 3 of our cars just became out of commission simultaneously

[JohnGD]

Also read up on this thread:

Torn CV boots.... is replaceing the half shaft less work and better?

[DAT RICE]

hey again, decided to buy a new axle, just arrived. I bought it from Partsgeek, is this a remaned axle? Looks very new, will post a pic up soon. I'm not sure if it has grease inside. What do? and how do i install? Read the linked thread, JohnGD, the video in it is very helpful for checking axles, thanks.

[inuhbad]

I learned to do it from reading my Haynes Manual, and also watching some videos on Youtube to learn some tricks on doing it easier.

A HAYNES MANUAL WILL BE IMMEASURABLY HELPFUL - BUY ONE if you don't have one already!

Basically, the gist of it can be summarized as follows:
1.) Loosen Lug-Nuts.
2.) Remove cotter pin & cover over CV/Axle nut, and use a breaker bar to loosen your CV Axle Nut (don't remove it fully).
3.) Jack up car, and support with jack stands.
4.) Remove wheel.
5.) Loosen rubber brake line (where it bolts to the strut), and remove Calipers & Disc Torque Plate - hang it from your coil springs with a length of metal wire so it's not hanging by the rubber brake line.
6.) Remove Disc rotor, and ABS Sensor (if your car has one).
7.) Disconnect your Sway Bar Linkage Rod from the strut (not the sway bar end, the end that connects to the strut/shock). This can be a pain in the rear (especially if it's rusty) - it requires a hex or allen tool to hold the bolt while you loosen the nut with a wrench.
8.) Remove the two nuts & bolt that connects the lower ball joint to the swing arm underneath.
9.) Carefully use a pry bar to push the swing arm down, and then rotate the lower three bolts of your ball joint assembly out of the way. Be careful not to tear the rubber ball joint boot.
10.) Back up your CV /Axle nut, so it's about flush with the end of your CV Axle threading. Put on your CV Socket on the nut (30mm if I recall), and give it a few whacks with a hammer.... At the same time pull back/outward on the wheel hub / steering knuckle assembly. This will whack the CV Shaft loose from your wheel hub & bearings.
11.) Pull the steering knuckle/strut/hub assembly back toward you, while carefully moving the CV Axle out the back, and then off to one side (usually to the front end of the car is easiest).
12.) Remove the CV Shaft Axle by giving it a good tug outward, and if that doesn't work, you can carefully give it a little pry from underneath. It should come right out!

There's a series of Youtube Videos on this subject, and one of the series starts with this video...

You Tube

You Tube

Keep clicking on the other "How to replace a CV Joint" videos for the next video in the sequence. Ignore the part where he's loosening the ball joint - your Camry has a different style ball joint assembly, and the method he uses could permanently damage your ball joint, and you'll be out another $35+ to replace it! Follow the Haynes Manual when it talks about separating the ball joint without wrecking it.

If there's any questions, or discrepancies between MY advice on the post, and what the guy in the Vidoes is doing - ALWAYS refer to the Haynes Manual as there are always subtle discrepancies - and the Haynes Manual will show you how to do it best.

You should be able to do this in a day or so... Less than that if you're confident, skilled, and mechanically inclined.

[DAT RICE]

UPDATE: wrong diagnosis. the wobbling originated from a ballooned rear tire. Lovely! I'm still trying to sell this car for $1200 If anyone interested and in ny/nj line PM me. Has only an oil leak and frontal body parts issues.

[zythr]

Originally Posted by DAT RICE

UPDATE: wrong diagnosis. the wobbling originated from a ballooned rear tire. Lovely! I'm still trying to sell this car for $1200 If anyone interested and in ny/nj line PM me. Has only an oil leak and frontal body parts issues.

Where is the leak, for any potential buyers?