overtightened the lug and broke the stud!!!

[sssgood]

hey guys,
today I was replacing my steel wheel with an alloy, and i overtightened one of the lugs, and broke the stud!!! so the question is, is it safe to drive with 4 nuts on?! some times i do like 140, is it ok to go that fast? also what part do I need to change, like whats it called?

thanks

[djb2]

First, are you using the correct nut for the alloy wheels that you are using? The lug nuts required depend on the wheel. And don't forget store a set of matching nuts with the steel spare.

Replacing the stud is easy and inexpensive. A new M12x1.5-40mm stud is only $1-$3 (12mm bolt diameter, 1.5mm thread pitch, and 40mm long).

To replace, take off the wheel, locate the access hole in the backing plate (you may have to remove the brake caliper bracket), tap the old stud out with a hammer, insert the new stud, start the splines into place by either tapping in with a hammer or threading with a nut, reinstall the wheel.

The first time you tighten the lug nut, tighten to 100ftlbs rather than the usual 80. Check the torque again after driving for a few miles.

It's not especially dangerous driving around with a missing lug nut, but you shouldn't do any high speed driving.

[LynchburgCSI]

Originally Posted by sssgood

hey guys,
today I was replacing my steel wheel with an alloy, and i overtightened one of the lugs, and broke the stud!!! so the question is, is it safe to drive with 4 nuts on?! some times i do like 140, is it ok to go that fast? also what part do I need to change, like whats it called?

thanks

Don't EVER do 140 regardless. That's not safe and your gonna total your car best case.... or get yourself killed worst case. See my sig. That's a 40mph impact. I would have died if I wasn't wearing my seatbelt.

Anyways... http://www.rockauto.com/ is a good place to look up part numbers. You're just looking for a single wheel stud. Heck, you could pick it up at the dealership easily too. For just pull an entire hub for a junk yard. Anyways, check out rock auto, look up the Toyota part number and google around for a new one.

edit: i agree with everything djb2 said. also... specifics for these cars (shop manual) can be found here: http://www.**********s.com/camry/

[Nervous]

Guys, OP is from Canada

[RU2CHKN]

yeah it's not hard to replace like djb2 said, just tap the stud out with a hammer and slowly tap the new stud back in and retighten then you're ready to go

[haux]

140 kilometers per hour is about 87mph.

[sssgood]

lol thnx for the info! I thought I needed to change the whole hub thing or wutevr its called. um ya I don't really know when to stop tightening, as I just use a long ass tube for the tourqe.....an lols everyones talking about how fast I go.....I know its really bad, the thing is i am on the highway 40kms a day from home to school and back, and when I see the open road....I CAN'T HELP IT!!!, my teenage blood just starts boiling....lol, thats why bad teenagers shouldn't drive >_<, even my friends get scrared when they are with me XD.... but ya I should go slower but the damn smooth car with the 1mz just screams for me to floor it ....anyhow 60mph good to drive with 4 nuts?

LynchburgCSI:
haha ya i know a crash at 140 is like instant death... but yo 3 months ago when it firs snowed my car spun and hit a curb cuz I was doing like 50km/h with bad tires (i was gonna change them the next day...) broke both the front and rear bumper with bent fenders, and destroyed the rear bearing and wheel, but after changing the wheel and hub its good now unlike ur wimpy car that got totaled (lol jking)

pgmomni:

lols the fastest I went was 180km/h , and the road was like open for miles haha (that was when I was 16, and my parents who were in the car got pissed and told me to slow down, hehe), but ya I get the meaning of that quote without googling it, but HEY I am a really good and safe driver k? i just speed sometimes >_>

[LynchburgCSI]

Originally Posted by Nervous

Guys, OP is from Canada

I feel like a genius!

Originally Posted by haux

140 kilometers per hour is about 87mph.

I wouldn't drive that fast with 4 studs. You can get by but ehhhhh.....

[Nervous]

In Formula-1 they use one (!) nut per wheel and drive 300+ kmph!

[djb2]

Use a torque wrench the next time. A good one goes on sale at Harbor Freight for as low as US$10. Crappy Tire probably has a usable one for about 4x the price.

If you haven't been using a torque wrench and regularly speed, bump up the priority of replacing that stud. Buy a spare while there -- you'll likely need it soon.

And always wear you seat belt.

[sssgood]

Originally Posted by djb2

Use a torque wrench the next time. A good one goes on sale at Harbor Freight for as low as US$10. Crappy Tire probably has a usable one for about 4x the price.

If you haven't been using a torque wrench and regularly speed, bump up the priority of replacing that stud. Buy a spare while there -- you'll likely need it soon.

And always wear you seat belt.

ya I was wondering about that, torque wrench, wut exactly is it? like I saw one at a flier and it was like digital and stuff and was freakin $250!! so I was like screw it, but $10? O_o

[LynchburgCSI]

Originally Posted by sssgood

ya I was wondering about that, torque wrench, wut exactly is it? like I saw one at a flier and it was like digital and stuff and was freakin $250!! so I was like screw it, but $10? O_o

this is a MUST HAVE: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench

[djb2]

A torque wrench lets you tighten a fastener correctly -- to the specified torque, usually expressed in ft-lbs or Nm (Newton-meters).

Some of the digital ones are pretty nice. They let you know as you are approaching the correct torque, and record the actual torque applied. But they are overkill for casual use.

The simplest type of torque wrench is a beam style. It's a simple pointer on a long-handle wrench. You don't want this type. It's difficult enough to read the gauge accurately when you can see it, and there are many situations where it can't be read at all.

The click style that H-F sells is better. Internally it has a spring-loaded ball in a groove. When the desired torque is reached, the force causes the ball to come out of the groove. You hear and feel the "click". This has the advantage that it works in any orientation, doesn't require seeing the wrench, and going past the dialed-in torque doesn't affect the calibration.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...e=magurl1.html
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/....do?itemid=239

[sssgood]

Originally Posted by djb2

A torque wrench lets you tighten a fastener correctly -- to the specified torque, usually expressed in ft-lbs or Nm (Newton-meters).

Some of the digital ones are pretty nice. They let you know as you are approaching the correct torque, and record the actual torque applied. But they are overkill for casual use.

The simplest type of torque wrench is a beam style. It's a simple pointer on a long-handle wrench. You don't want this type. It's difficult enough to read the gauge accurately when you can see it, and there are many situations where it can't be read at all.

The click style that H-F sells is better. Internally it has a spring-loaded ball in a groove. When the desired torque is reached, the force causes the ball to come out of the groove. You hear and feel the "click". This has the advantage that it works in any orientation, doesn't require seeing the wrench, and going past the dialed-in torque doesn't affect the calibration.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...e=magurl1.html
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/....do?itemid=239

awesome, looks like i am going going shopping, thanks

[LynchburgCSI]

Originally Posted by sssgood

awesome, looks like i am going going shopping, thanks

heads up.... Car & Driver magazine has a 20% any one item coupon for habor freight in the back. Maybe not worth it on a $10 purchase... but hey.