?s on Camry 5SFE Engine Swap Strategies/Methods - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Rattlin_Steele · 03-29-2010, 05:06 PM

Hi all. This is my first post here besides the one on the introductions forum.

I'm about to undertake swapping the 5SFE 2.2 I4, automatic, in my 97 Camry for a 5SFE from a 98 Camry. To support the effort, I purchased a DVD video off ebay where a mechanic goes through the steps of removal and installation. It's not quite as detailed in all aspects as I would've liked but still looks to be very helpful. I also have a Haynes manual for what its worth. Have also done a lot of reading on this forum (if I sound at all like I know what I'm talking about it's only because of what I've learned here) and now seem to recall a link to some online manuals that I hopefully bookmarked on my computer at home.

One question I have regards the intake manifold. On the DVD the guy removes the intake manifold prior to engine removal, which looks pretty difficult given that most of the bolts are between the backside of the engine and the firewall and must be accessed from underneath the car. Does anyone have any experience or insight as to why this might be a preferred approach as opposed to leaving it on the engine? Less overall complexity? Clearance when raising engine?

BTW, his method removes the engine over the top without the tranny, which is how I think I'd prefer to go.

Also, does anyone know of any compatiblity issues between the 97 and 98? I wouldn't think there should be many if at all, but I did notice the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall has a different part number.

I generally try to use the seach feature before asking questions, but didn't see anything to answer my specific questions.

Thanks!

hill8570 · 03-29-2010, 05:17 PM

Removing the intake manifold for the 5S-FE doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me -- there's plenty of clearance back there.

Don't know the specifics between those two years, but I doubt that it's anything that couldn't be solved by swapping sensors off of your old engine (assuming you're keeping the original ECU).

Chris Crash · 03-29-2010, 05:39 PM

You don't need to remove the intake, there's room.

I think it's easiest to remove the engine and trans from the top together. Then you have room to unbolt the trans and bolt it to the other engine. I just don't like working with 4 inches of clearance.

There shouldn't be any compatibility issues at all...

I'm on my second engine swap right now, so any questiongs I got you

tacosteelersman · 03-29-2010, 07:16 PM

As I've learned on this site the main engine compartment wiring harness runs up the middle of the engine.. The method people are using is to unplug the ECU under the glove box and pull the wires through the firewall pulling the wires with the engine.. Also a bolt or two in the fusebox.. In my haynes manual the same method is recomended.. This being said, I've only read about this, not accually done it.. DO SOME MORE SEARCHES HERE ON TOYOTA NATION..

Chris Crash · 03-29-2010, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacosteelersman

As I've learned on this site the main engine compartment wiring harness runs up the middle of the engine.. The method people are using is to unplug the ECU under the glove box and pull the wires through the firewall pulling the wires with the engine.. Also a bolt or two in the fusebox.. In my haynes manual the same method is recomended.. This being said, I've only read about this, not accually done it.. DO SOME MORE SEARCHES HERE ON TOYOTA NATION..

I've never had to unbolt anything in the fusebox, but the wiring harness definitely take from the firewall. You just have to remove the glovebox to get to it.

Rattlin_Steele · 03-29-2010, 11:01 PM

Thanks for the help everyone. I think I will try to do it without removing the intake manifold. I'm hoping not to replace sensors if possible, but I'll inspect them closely for differences.

I just found my bookmarks for the online manual...
http://www.camrystuff.com/index.php?page=Gen4_Manuals
so I intend to review it for info on removing the engine with the tranny attached and may decide to go that way instead. My particular Haynes manual leaves a lot to be desired on this procedure.

Good tip on the wiring harness. I had read that before on here and forgotten about it. Now I wish I had tried to talk the guys in the salvage yard into taking it loose from the ECU. I imagine they've simply hacked it up by now.

Thanks for the offer of future help. I'm sure I can get this done, but I'm trying to get as smart as I can before starting. It's been 25 years or so since I last did a motor swap and things were a bit simpler back then.

73sport · 03-30-2010, 12:40 AM

If you pull the trans w/the engine I see plenty people having issue getting the axles to pop free from the transaxle.
So keep this in mind; use two prybars placed 180 degrees apart and apply pressure such that you can pop both prybars with equal force at the same time and they usually pop right out.

They bind and fight you when applying pressure from one side only.

Good Luck

EDIT: ALSO and perhaps more important, continue to plan ahead.
Soak ANY EXHAUST bolt you intend to remove during this process with some kind of penatrant!!! Yes, it will, drip, burn, stink, smoke, but its well worth it to hit them 4 or 5 times before you go to wrench them!

Rattlin_Steele · 03-30-2010, 04:30 PM

After reviewing the service manual, I'm tempted to pull the motor with trans attached. Not really looking forward to pulling axles, was hoping to avoid that, but it may be worth it to minimize time under car un-bolting trans from drive plate and more importantly getting it all to mate easily on the install. I don't have access to a lift rack, so I'll be on my back.

Stupid question maybe but an important one for my situation... If I have the axles out, is it possible to safely put the spindle/hub assembly back in place and re-mount the front tires so the car can be rolled?

I don't have enough space in the garage to fit the whole car and don't want to keep it unlocked if I'm away long. I'd work on my open driveway, but it has a bit of a slope, so I'd rather have the hoist on the level garage floor. Knowing me, this project isn't going to get done in one day.

Thanks again for the help so far.

Chris Crash · 03-30-2010, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rattlin_Steele

Stupid question maybe but an important one for my situation... If I have the axles out, is it possible to safely put the spindle/hub assembly back in place and re-mount the front tires so the car can be rolled?

Thanks again for the help so far.

Yes you can. I've done it multiple times and it's just fine!

Rattlin_Steele · 03-30-2010, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73sport

EDIT: ALSO and perhaps more important, continue to plan ahead.
Soak ANY EXHAUST bolt you intend to remove during this process with some kind of penatrant!!! Yes, it will, drip, burn, stink, smoke, but its well worth it to hit them 4 or 5 times before you go to wrench them!

Just noticed your edit. Thanks for the tip, just went out and sprayed them down with PB Blaster. Hopefully I won't have too many problems with tight bolts. The current engine was completely out of the car 6 months ago when it was supposedly being fixed by the shop who screwed it all up in the first place. It lasted about 4 weeks after getting it back.

Rattlin_Steele · 04-01-2010, 10:10 PM

Before posting the first question, I had emailed the guy who made the DVD about it. He didn't respond and I figured he probably doesn't want to field questions for the $10 you pay for his DVD. But he was nice enough to respond today and simply stated that he preferred to leave the harness behind which was easier to do if you left the intake manifold behind as well.

I picked up the replacement motor today and after looking it over, I can see how the harness weaves through the intake manifold and sort of see his point, but I think I'll follow you all's advice and take the harness out through the firewall and not remove the intake. Just thought I'd mention the explanation.

As I suspected the guys at the yard simply cut off the harness just outside the firewall, right after the diagnostic port. Seems like in the time it took to hack through it all, they could've just taken it loose from the ECU, but oh well.

Upon first inspection I do notice a little oil seepage down the backside, hopefully just from the valve cover gasket, which I intend to replace anyway. Very clean around the rear seal. Haven't taken off the timing cover yet to look there.

I was able to borrow two engine stands, so I plan to place the two motors side by side when I get the bad one pulled, which leads to a question... The smaller of the two is rated at 750 lbs max. I think that should be fine by a fair margin. Agree?

Also, is it worth taking the time to remove the drive plate prior to bolting on the engine stand just to remove the thin metal plate behind so as not to bang it up or crease it at the mount points? (I may decide to not replace the rear seal).

Now I'm on the hunt for long enough bolts for mounting.

Another thing... I was under the impression that the exhaust pipe was mounted to the exhaust manifold with nuts and bolts but now I see there are threaded studs in the manifold, one of which is missing now. I'll take one from the broke engine, but are there supposed to nuts on the top side of those studs? There aren't any on the broke engine, but as I said before, it was pulled out months ago and I did find bolts missing in places when I got it back.

Finally, I didn't realize the salvage yard would want an exchange and I had to pay a $100 core charge. Despite that I'm still thinking of keeping it. The sensors, coil packs, etc. should easily be worth $100 right?

Thanks again everyone. PS I just noticed the "thank you" feature, so forgive me if I go overboard.

Rattlin_Steele · 04-04-2010, 01:15 AM

Lesson learned... Don't ask too many stupid questions in a single post!

Engine now mounted on stand, weight not a problem. Bolts turned out to be 12mm, 1.25 thread pitch Found at Ace hardware for a scalding $4.60 each. Didn't worry about drive plate/cover.

Still wouldn't mind opinions on keeping broke motor for $100, mainly because I haven't had time to research ebay, etc. to see what some of the stuff is worth.

Chris Crash · 04-04-2010, 01:20 PM

I had a core charge of $200. But since the block is no good, I can only get back $100. So I kept it and am going to sell the head, camshafts, and 3 pistons.

wagoss · 09-03-2010, 09:33 PM

I have to ask what is probably a very simple question...

How do you remove the harness from the firewall on a '99? I have everything disconnected from the ECU, but can't seem to pull it through the firewall. Do you just keep pulling or is there a trick behind it?

Thanks,
Wayne

Chris Crash · 09-03-2010, 10:46 PM

Pull through from the engine side. Should come right out, unless something else is in there.