DIY: 1MZ V6 spark plug tube seals replacement 1MZFE

[Nervous]

Decided to make a separate topic with the DIY for better search.
To remove old seals I used two approaches. The first one is to use long screwdriver:


The second, to use needle-nose pliers to bend the metal part of the seal toward the center of the circle:







Now about installation.

First of all, bend up the tab:



I put new seals into a freezer and before installing them I heated up the well by hairdryer. I also put a light coat of MP grease on the sides of wells:






After this, you can push the seal into the well by fingers almost all the way down (but you need to act fast!). If necessary, use 30 - 32 mm socket and piece of wood to push it all the way down:



Don't forget to return the tab to its original position. That is it for the seals.



Before installing the cover, put a light coat of MP grease on internal surface of the seal (where it will contact the tube). This will ease the installation of the valve cover.

[73sport]

Originally Posted by Nervous

. . . . use 30 - 32 mm socket and piece of wood to push it all the way down:



Don't forget to return the tab to its original position. That is it for the seals.

Before installing the cover, put a light coat of MP grease on internal surface of the seal (where it will contact the tube). This will ease the installation of the valve cover.

Good job!

For those of you that do this make certain you support the valve cover directly below the seal or you can bend or break it! {not good }

So for each seal you pound in, move the cover over the block to support it BEFORE you whack it!
Hint: using a hammer that weighs more than the combined weight of all the things you're trying to move will be more effective too!

Also, the tensioner springs on the seals go towards the top (where the coil packs/wires are).

[projektvertx]

Good stuff!! I vote for a sticky!

[Nervous]

No need to really "whack" it, actually. If seal is frozen and well is hot it is insertable by hand almost all the way down. Just need to "tap" it a little bit. But yes, support is good.

[rty]

Originally Posted by Nervous

No need to really "whack" it, actually. If seal is frozen and well is hot it is insertable by hand almost all the way down. Just need to "tap" it a little bit. But yes, support is good.

I'll try that next time. When I did this I filed off the tabs and then hammered the seals.

[df0318]

I did this today. Frozening the seals works well. Unluckily, I broken one cover bolt in the middle of rear side of RH closing to the firewall. I don't know how to get it out, space is too narrow, and think I have to live with it. Once there is no leak, I am lucky.

Someone has the same problem? And solutions?

[rty]

Originally Posted by df0318

I did this today. Frozening the seals works well. Unluckily, I broken one cover bolt in the middle of rear side of RH closing to the firewall. I don't know how to get it out, space is too narrow, and think I have to live with it. Once there is no leak, I am lucky.

Someone has the same problem? And solutions?

I did the same thing but luckily it wasn't on the firewall side. The bottom of bolt sticks out so I grabbed it with pliers and kept turning it until it came out through the bottom.

It's a good idea to pick up new bolts when doing this.

[Nervous]

Originally Posted by df0318

I did this today. Frozening the seals works well. Unluckily, I broken one cover bolt in the middle of rear side of RH closing to the firewall. I don't know how to get it out, space is too narrow, and think I have to live with it. Once there is no leak, I am lucky.

Someone has the same problem? And solutions?

That is why I use brand new bolts when I change valve cover gaskets. They are relatively cheap (p/n 90080-10288, $1.25 at http://partznet.com you need 16 of them) and this is cheap insurance from headache like this.

In you case, I would try to do the following: support the engine from the bottom by the jack (closer to firewall), remove the bolt from the rear mount and carefully lift up the rear part of the engine (the part that is close to firewall). Do it very carefully and slow and check constantly that nothing is going to break (axles, hoses, wires). Hopefully, you can reach the point where it will be relatively convenient to deal with the broken bolt.

CAUTION! Do not use oil pan to jack up the engine! You'll bend it. Find a place on the bottom of the engine block. Put a piece of pressure treated wood or hockey puck between jack and engine block.

[adu1982]

man, I wish I would have found this...when I did my valve cover this weekend, i did the spark plug seals on the front, and beat them in , and because of that the back, I just left the old one, which did not looked too bad or leaked ....but if the car lives on, I will replace them when they leak.....it is at 250k miles now soooo....who knows...(it is an avy , however) ....


great write up though......that took me the longest and annoyed me the most (putting them in)

[Nervous]

Glad it is helpful (well.... kinda )!

[mabmab12345]

Great write-up. I was struggling putting the seals in. Then found this post. The combination of freezing the spark plug seals (20-30 mins in freezer) and heating the valve cover worked amazingly.
Thanks !

-93 Lexus ES300 3VZ-FE

[ajkalian]

Here's a tip for the next time you replace the seals. Like everybody else, I have struggled with the damn things every time I do a valve cover gasket replacement. The FSM shows using needle nose pliers, and they kinda work, but you always mung up the little tabs, and you always have to fight the seals to get them out.

The last time I did a valve cover gasket and seal replacement, I tried something different and it worked like a charm. No fuss, no muss, and the seals came right out.

Here's how you do it. With the valve cover laying upside down on a bench with the seals are going from left to right.

For orientation, the tabs are at 3:00 and 9:00. Take a medium sized flat blade screwdriver and wedge it between the seal and the valve cover at 90 degrees to where the little tabs are. Or using the example above, at 12:00.

You might have to pound the screwdriver in gently to get it under the seal. Once under the seal pry it up just a bit. Then go 180 degrees, or 6:00 and do the same thing. Tap the screwdriver under the seal, and lift a bit. Go back and forth, 12:00-6:00, 12:00-6:00, maybe two or three times, and the seal will lift right out leaving the tabs pretty much untouched.

Now it's easy to bend the tabs back so you can slip the new seals in. Be careful banging them in. The valve cover is aluminum, and they are easy to crack. It's best to support it from underneath with a block of wood, maybe 4"x4" and move it from seal to seal. It's best to use a press if you have one. But if you don't, you can bang them in, as shown in the DIY. If you are careful, you should have no problems.

And don't forget to bend the tabs back to hold the seals in place.

Failure to do this will cause much grief.

.

[artbuc]

I made my own press with a carriage bolt, washers and nuts. Pulled them right into place without beating anything with a hammer. No fuss, no muss.