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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-09-2010, 12:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation PS Leak from Hydraulic Motor

I just finished installing a new NAPA radiator in my '93 Camry V6 (225,000 miles). Overall, the replacement went well, but now I have a power steering fluid leak coming from the hydraulic motor attached to the radiator fan.

When I took the large 17mm bolt off from the top of the PS fluid connection, it was very tight and it took a lot of torque to get it loose. I put a new copper washer/gasket (two washers held together by a metal band) on the fitting, but the hydraulic motor still leaks when the car is warmed up and the fan begins turning. It's a big enough leak that I have to add PS fluid after driving around town for 20-30 minutes.

I'm going to add some UV dye to the next batch of PS fluid I add, but I wondered if anyone has removed that hydraulic fan motor WITHOUT removing the radiator and the fan shroud. If I have to, I have to, but that new radiator looks and fits so well . . .

Thanks in advance,

Dave N.
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

Not quite the same but I just replaced the radiator in my 1993 V6 Camry, and all I done was unbolt it from the radiator, removed the 'return' line [the one with a clamp on it], and swing it upwards and out of the way of the radiator. There are bolts on the bottom as well as the top on the fan housing. You could just remove the banjo bolt you are having trouble with and the return hose and then remove the entire fan assembly -leaving the radiator in place.

HOWEVER, re the leak; Are you certain you have a copper washer under the bolt head and between the fitting and motor? And the mating surfaces are clean and not burred or have some grit under a washer? Should only take moderate torque to seat the washers for a leak free seal.
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg2347 View Post
Not quite the same but I just replaced the radiator in my 1993 V6 Camry, and all I done was unbolt it from the radiator, removed the 'return' line [the one with a clamp on it], and swing it upwards and out of the way of the radiator. There are bolts on the bottom as well as the top on the fan housing. You could just remove the banjo bolt you are having trouble with and the return hose and then remove the entire fan assembly -leaving the radiator in place.

HOWEVER, re the leak; Are you certain you have a copper washer under the bolt head and between the fitting and motor? And the mating surfaces are clean and not burred or have some grit under a washer? Should only take moderate torque to seat the washers for a leak free seal.
I didn't like the looks of the old copper washer after I removed the old radiator, so I bought a new 'double' copper washer from Toyota. It's two copper washers held together by a small strip of metal, about a quarter-inch apart. I cleaned the mating surfaces before installing the new washer.

I didn't over-torque the banjo bolt when I reassembled it. Getting the bolt off when removing the old radiator took a lot of torque - it was on very tight.

I can see PS fluid dripping from the bottom of the hydraulic motor, but I can see where the leak starts, since the fluid is clear. I just put the UV dye into the PS reservoir. The leak is hitting the fan when it runs, so I hope there isn't too much scatter so I can pinpoint the source.
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Problem solved

The UV dye showed me that there were two leaking surfaces in the PS fluid hose connection at the radiator motor.

I tried several times to clean the surfaces and assemble the pieces to get a good fit, but each time it leaked. I finally gave up and got a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey gasket sealer. I cleaned and degreased all the mating surfaces, then applied a very thin layer of Permatex to each surface.

From there I just followed the Permatex tube directions by first hand-tightening the bolt, then waiting an hour to tighten it down with a wrench. Then I let it 'cure' for 48 hours (the tube says 24 hours, but we had two rainy days back-to-back).

The leak is gone and the fan runs the way it is supposed to run.

I had to use Permatex once before to seal some leaky valve cover gaskets on a V6 Buick, so I was pretty sure this would work.
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I had the similar leak between high pressure steering hose and steering pump on my 1MZ. They use the same double copper gasket there. I used thin layer of silicone to seal the leak. I think, there was a scratch on one of the surfaces because once I replaced the high pressure steering hose leak is gone even w/o applying silicone.
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