3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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1.phillips screwdriver (star tip)
2.a very small flat head (like for repairing glasses)
first.
remove the window regulator assembly from the car, it makes the job easier.
with it out remove the 2 philips screws from the casing as shown in the following pictures:
now.
slowly remove the casing. the magnets will take the motor windings out also, this is ok.
it should look like this:
take the electronic half and notice the brushes, these have to be changed.
there is a spring clip behind each one.
use the small flat head to unhook the clip by pushing it in and lifting slightly.
this will allow the brush to be removed:
once the brush is taken out, disconnect it from the plug gently:
as you can see it just slides out:
this is what they look like, you can get them at radio shack or out of other cars in the junk yard:
to reassemble, put the brushes back in but do not engage the springs:
insert the motor assembly back into the housing as shown:
when the motor is all the way in, you may engage the spring clips as shown:
this part is the most difficult.
when putting the magnetic casing back on you MUST hold the gear in place and DO NOT ALLOW IT TO TURN.
replace the screws and youre done...make sure to test before you put it back into your car.
I have the same question.
My window goes up crooked, so I assume this is the issue?
If the motor works up and down, sounds like the window regulator might need replacing.
You'll need to take the motor/regulator assembly out, which is not very complicated. It involves taking off the door panel first, which will give you access to these.
Correct, the motor works, and the window goes all the way up, but it just doesn't seat properly at the back edge. There's a small gap, b/c the window went to unevenly. If I have someone else press the window button while I palm the glass on both sides and help pull it up uniformly, then it seats right.
IMO, I would be fairly confident in it being the regulator only. Your regulator is very similar to the scissor style in my '00 accord (not so much my '94 camry), and it's been gradually doing the same thing lately.
Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 08-28-2011 at 10:21 PM.
Correct, the motor works, and the window goes all the way up, but it just doesn't seat properly at the back edge. There's a small gap, b/c the window went to unevenly. If I have someone else press the window button while I palm the glass on both sides and help pull it up uniformly, then it seats right.
Does this sound like the regulator?
To me it sounds like there is just an adjustment to be made. One of my other cars had this problem. I couldn't figure out which was the correct screw to adjust. Took it to the dealer and gave them twenty minutes to adjust it. This was marked on the work order, by me. I called and confirmed all this ahead of time. Was aware of the adjustment from the service manual.
The tech had it adjusted in no time, spent the rest of the time cleaning my door's driver mirror. I had the door panel off to speed up the procedure, he even had enough time to put on the panel, but I had all the fasteners put away.
I had replaced the door myself, found the correct one, and colour at a u-pull, however it did not come with the regulator and I had to transfer the one from the rotted door along with the glass.
Speak to the service manager describing the gap and see if he has a tech good at adjusting the regulator position on the door, confirming at the same time it can be done.
Hope this helps.
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2000 Camry IL4 5S-FE 100,000mi or 171,000km
The Following User Says Thank You to Brit101 For This Useful Post:
Brit, that's a really great way, in general, to prevent getting gouged at the service shop.
1) Do as much as you can yourself
2) Time the specific labor, with predetermined time limit.
3) Do the cleanup/assembly yourself.
Brit, that's a really great way, in general, to prevent getting gouged at the service shop.
1) Do as much as you can yourself
2) Time the specific labor, with predetermined time limit.
3) Do the cleanup/assembly yourself.
Brilliant chap! Cheers!
Yes 200k I feel clear communication is best for all concerned.
When I took in my Suzuki Esteem wagon to have a bizarre electrical issue solved, the auto trans. would not shift when the rear defroster was on, the service manager when asked how long for the diagnosis. He replied, " we know when we start.....not when we finish"( labour rate is $75/hr plus 14% tax). I told him (we get along well) "I know when you finish, 40 minutes that is my limit", with a smile.
I am free then to take it elsewhere. The Suzuki's diagnosis what good, water damage to the fusebox because of a leak in the windshield(tech showed me the corrosion with a snake digi camera). I had the windshield removed (naturally it cracked during removal) Put in another fusebox, had the windshield opening rust removed) and the windshield replaced, with a new one.
Issue persisted. Took it to an auto electric shop. Wiring to the rear hatch/door was broken, tab was around $60, ah the joy of auto repair.
My feeling about dealers is generally for diagnosis, if the forums can't help you, and the Haynes service manual, they as a rule should know the issue because they have serviced others with the same problem and you are better off by not having to pay the education the mechanic at an independent garage. As mentioned in the previous post confirmation is best to have ahead of time one of a set time limit, and two they are familiar with the problem.
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2000 Camry IL4 5S-FE 100,000mi or 171,000km
Great idea, that's an excellent way to handle service like this from the dealership.
I'd still want to give it a shot and see what I can learn from atleast a visual before taking it in if adjusting becomes too difficult to figure out. That way you can perhaps have an idea whether or not it's something that can use an adjustment, or if there's obvious signs of wear that requires replacement.
I'm going to take mine apart. I was waiting until I was up for spending the money on a regulator (mine's ~$50), but now I have some hope that an adjustment might be able to resolve things. Maybe some adjusting, throw in some lube...free would be good.
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DIY fixing your power window motor
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) Put in another fusebox, had the windshield opening rust removed) and the windshield replaced, with a new one. 
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Linear Mode
