3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
So I have a 1995 1MZ-FE in the back of a 1991 MR2, and currently, the engine will not run.
Here's what happens:
1) I turn the key
2) Engine will
a) Crank for awhile and start b) fire right up
3) No matter if a or b happens, when the engine starts, there is roughly a 1-2 second time period before the engine dies, no matter what.
4) Process starts over, without fail, every time.
Side-note) If I hold the throttle open, the engine still dies within the 1-2 seconds.
So, I need help diagnosing the problem, because my OBDII connector doesn't work. When I plug it in to my computer, it finds the connector, but not the vehicle (current guess is a problem with the ecu).
Has this every happened to anyone (I know it's a unique problem, but I need all the ideas I can get)
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Quinn
91/95 MR2 (MZW21)
-1991 NA Toyota MR2 (SW21)
-Engine swap to 1995 Lexus ES300 (1MZ-FE)
If it's running well for those 2 seconds, I say electrical problem. Especially since this car has an engine swap. Maybe not in the ECU, but in the wiring itself. Who did the swap?
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
Hard to tell how it sounds...It sounds like a healthy start-up, but it never achieves idle, so I can only assume.
As far as swapped plug wires, the only thing I can think of is maybe my cam sensor...the clip was broken off when I bought the engine, so I've been guessing at which wire goes where. Could that cause it?
I did the swap in my garage...wiring and all. There have been numerous wiring mistakes and I'm about 90% certain I've covered everything that needs to be covered. But there's always the chance for mistake of course. Any suggestions on where to start looking? My eyes see everything I've done as gold, so my double checking everything blindly unfortunately produces no results.
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Quinn
91/95 MR2 (MZW21)
-1991 NA Toyota MR2 (SW21)
-Engine swap to 1995 Lexus ES300 (1MZ-FE)
that is some swap you have got there. In shoehorning the V6 into the car, my guess is maybe some wire got frayed during the install and is shorting out?
ecu pooched, if the scan tool will not interface then it is an issue with the ecu it self i had the same issue in my 96, start up for like 2 seconds and die, i was able to get a ruff idle and the second i hit the gas it would die
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Signature Suspended as it is in violation of signature rules.
^ and leaving it that way!
As far as swapped plug wires, the only thing I can think of is maybe my cam sensor...the clip was broken off when I bought the engine, so I've been guessing at which wire goes where. Could that cause it?
Definitely a possibility, but there's only two wires, power and ground, so it's not terribly difficult. The wiring diagrams you have should tell you which goes where. If the cam sensor is damaged, the ignition system won't function correctly. The same is true for the crankshaft position sensor. If the sensor or sprocket is damaged, the ECU won't know when to fire the coils.
Check the resistance of the cam sensor: Denso made: 835-1400 ohms (cold); 1060-1645 ohms (hot). If it's out of spec, you'll need a new one.
Did you verify the ECU is getting the IGT signal from the igniter? If there's no signal at the ECU, you'll need to check the wiring or try another ECU.
Did you crimp or solder wires? When hand crimping with uninsulated crimps, it's best to use solder in the crimp-to-wire contact area after crimping to get the best possible connection. Machine crimps are super accurate, so they typically don't need solder (which is also why you won't see any in the harness). This corrects any uneven crimps caused by a typical hand tool. Obviously, with insulated crimps, it's impossible to solder anything, so you'll have to check them with a voltmeter to see if there's a connection. A weak connection (i.e. only part of the wire is making contact with the crimp) can lead to issues.
And good to see you asking some of the Camry guys here about your issue Quinn. I'll try and help as much as I can, but I have my own bugs to work out too. Ugh.
nah should be the same ecu i have an 96 es300 ecu in mine and it is freaking out about the vsv thats near the gas tank.
if you tried diffrent ecu's and the tool wount interface with them i have to say to double check the wiring for that connector, it easier to find a problem when you can get it to give you a hint
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Signature Suspended as it is in violation of signature rules.
^ and leaving it that way!
Im having the same isue with my 98 camry. Was working fine, was not used all winter (maybe close to a year). Now it will start and run for 1-2 secs and die.
Someone told me it might be my fuel pump, it does turn on but because it sat so long without enough gas in tank the pump may have dried up and now it still pumps but there is not enough "pressure". I have yet to check this but i will see what happens.
Im having the same isue with my 98 camry. Was working fine, was not used all winter (maybe close to a year). Now it will start and run for 1-2 secs and die.
Someone told me it might be my fuel pump, it does turn on but because it sat so long without enough gas in tank the pump may have dried up and now it still pumps but there is not enough "pressure". I have yet to check this but i will see what happens.
Please let me know what you find out. My car has only been sitting for about 5-6 months before this started happening with 1/4 tank of gas in the car, pump was working perfectly fine (Ive swapped it back and forth between a used supra pump now...I hope that isn't the problem).
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Quinn
91/95 MR2 (MZW21)
-1991 NA Toyota MR2 (SW21)
-Engine swap to 1995 Lexus ES300 (1MZ-FE)
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