3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I've heard of performance break drums being used on an AE86 Corolla... but they weren't swiss-cheesed like you're describing. IMO, don't do it. Save up a bit, hit a junk yard, and do a V6 disc swap.
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
Just talked to my AE86 guy. He says finned drums are available for a AE86. That doesn't help the camry guys though.
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
I'm getting them for my car. Only cause mine is so light (ae86) I don't need rear disc's. The site im getting em from a place that sells em for all cars and free shipping too.
I mean I really don't want to mess around with taking the rear hub apart and everything. The article I was reading about these drilled drums said that theres pretty much no brake fade with drilled drums. And that drum brakes weigh less than disc brakes. Heres the article if you want to check it out.
Drums FTL. I just completed a rear disc swap on my car. It's pretty damn easy! Rear disc assemblies are abundant in the salvage yards, and don't cost that much. Everything's OEM, and don't require specialized parts. The weight difference is, maybe 2 or 3 pounds heavier for the disc setup. I'm not even sure about that. I didn't actually weigh the parts.
Anyway, it's just easier, and better to do a rear disc swap, than getting "performance" drums.
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"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country." - Kurt Vonnegut
Before you buy a drilled drums or drill holes yourself do a little reading on metallurgy and what happens to iron when holes are drilled in. In this case you rearrange the irons structure and make it weaker by creating stress risers. Unless this process is done right, by chamfering the holes on both side and in some cases re-heat treating the drum, it will likely fail under pressure and cost you or someone else their lives.
If you continually brake hard enough to induce brake fade at the drums, you should be off the streets and on a track. In short, just because someone did it, doesn't mean its the right thing to do.
Regards and please drive safely!
73
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
these are all very good points and to be taken seriously. thank you for putting the whole thing into perspective. and in all honesty a camry isn't exactly a good platform from which to base a track car. i think im going to buy a new car that is better for the track
i think im going to buy a new car that is better for the track
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
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Piece of Crap
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. I just completed a rear disc swap on my car. It's pretty damn easy! Rear disc assemblies are abundant in the salvage yards, and don't cost that much. Everything's OEM, and don't require specialized parts. The weight difference is, maybe 2 or 3 pounds heavier for the disc setup. I'm not even sure about that. I didn't actually weigh the parts. 
drums.
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