3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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My CEL has been on for about 2 weeks now , and I have recently acuired an ELM scantool and a demo of Digimoto V to pull the codes. The two codes are P0125 and P0171. I have searched the forums and the threads I have seen mention that since P0171 is more general I should attempt to fix P0125 first.
In my research I have seen that P0125 could be caused by a multitude of things, A/F sensor, O2 Sensor, or the Battery?!?
I also read that I should check if after the car has run for 15 minutes of driving that the temp is horizontal and full heat comes out HOT and not warm. Mine is about 1/4 high and only is warm, is this significant?
What can I do to diagnose what is the problem? Or should I just bring it in with a code this non-specific?
EDIT: 2000 Camry 5SFE, not sure if Cal spec or not.
Last edited by DIY_Apprentice; 04-12-2010 at 07:33 AM.
I read that you can check the sensor with a ohm meter to get the value of the ECT sensor, can this also be checked with my diagnostic software?
If your software can give you "engine temperature" or "coolant temperature" readout, that's from the ECT sensor.
I'd replace that thermostat first -- low enough engine temperature can cause funky oxygen sensor readings, so I'd get engine temp up to normal before going after the oxygen sensor. I'd go OEM for the thermostat (get a new thermostat gasket while you're there) -- I've seen too many flakey aftermarket thermostats.
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Thanks for the help guys. I will do the test pgmoni suggested as well as pick up an oem stat and gasket. is the Temp sensor pgmoni mentions the same thing as the ECT sensor?
I will see if my software can get engine temp/ coolant temp.
Thanks for the help guys. I will do the test pgmoni suggested as well as pick up an oem stat and gasket. is the Temp sensor pgmoni mentions the same thing as the ECT sensor?
I will see if my software can get engine temp/ coolant temp.
Looks like pgmoni mentioned multiple sensors. There are three temp sensors on the 5S-FE: (1) the ECT, which the ECU uses to determine engine / coolant temperature (2) the dashboard gauge sensor, which outputs to the temp gauge on the dashboard (3) the temperature switch for the radiator fans -- these will kick on the radiator fans when coolant temp gets too hot (if you've got the A/C running, one of the fans will be running all the time)
Since your heater is blowing lukewarm air, I'd say your dashboard gauge is reporting reality. Usually even if the fans are running too often or all the time, the thermostat will keep the engine at normal operating temperature. Upshot, need to replace the thermostat. I'm not saying that will necessarily fix the P0125 / P0171 (that may still be a duff oxygen sensor), but ya gotta peel the onion one layer at a time.
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Is there any harm in continuing to drive it as is? I mean I plan on fixing it one weekend at a time, but I don't want to be seriously damaging anything. Or does this just mean I will have crappy mpg for awhile?
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Also, I would like to do this fix myself, but the sticky DIY is for gen 3, is it the same process, or is there a different thread for a gen 4? Thanks.
Assuming you're talking about the thermostat? IIRC, there are some minor differences between the Gen4 and Gen3 5S-FE in that area (personally, I don't own a Gen4). FSM at www.camrystuff.com, Generation 4, Coolant section has a decent R&R writeup on replacing the thermostat. Make sure you don't overtorque the bolts for the housing when installing -- 78 inch-pounds ain't much!
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Is there any harm in continuing to drive it as is? I mean I plan on fixing it one weekend at a time, but I don't want to be seriously damaging anything. Or does this just mean I will have crappy mpg for awhile?
I wouldn't let it go for months (I suspect you're running rich, which isn't good for the catalytic converter in the long run), but you're not going to kill anything letting it go for a couple of weeks. Once you have the parts, you can do the thermostat in a hour unless the whole housing area is rusted to hell (a distinct possibility in Minnesota).
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I don't know much about coolant. It says make sure you fill your coolant with Toyota Long Life or Equivalent, what would be an equivalent coolant that is relatively cheap? And where would you purchase it, I have a Super Target and an O'reilly Auto close by, but I could get to a Walmart or a NAPA if absolutely necessary.
Thanks for all the advice, I picked up the Thermostat and Gasket, I plan to replace this weekend.
What color coolant do you have in there now? If it's red, I'd keep with the Toyota Red (relatively expensive). If green, then something like Prestone Long Life pre-mixed should work. It's not real critical, but I don't like to mix red and green (looks rusty, and rusty looking antifreeze makes me nervous).
OTOH, if you just drain your coolant into a clean bucket, it should be a moot point -- you should be able to just put the old coolant back in. If you lose a bit, just top off with distilled water.
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Really? Ok, I will see if it is red or green and how much it would cost to replace my coolant. If it is too expensive I will reuse. I didn't know you could do that without issues. How big of a bucket do I need? 1 Gallon, 5? I can't imagine why a 1 Gallon wouldn't be more than enough space, but, like I said, I am still learning when it comes to coolant.
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P0125 & P0171, A/F or O2 or Battery?
, and I have recently acuired an ELM scantool and a demo of Digimoto V to pull the codes. The two codes are P0125 and P0171. I have searched the forums and the threads I have seen mention that since P0171 is more general I should attempt to fix P0125 first.
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