3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Well
So i just driving my car just fine like everyday to work
so ill just run it down.
Started my car fine. went to work. then it started fine again when i was leaving. then i went to the store.
i was only gone like 10mins then i tried to start my car,
and it cranks then its sounds like it trys to start cause i can hear my muffler starting, then it just dies.
then i have to wait like 10 mins for it to start right.
and even then i have to start the car then push the gas for it to idel right.
its likes car cranks then RPM go up, for a sec, Then Stalls n dies.
then wait, then car does same thing but seems right.
i have new wires, new plugs, new Cap.
I had half a tank of gas.
Its strange i dont know.
It starts fine if i wait awhile before starting it again, but it just cuts if i dont let it sit.
Some signs for Heat Soak:
1) The car will start OK when cold.
2) Will start OK after turning OFF for more than 30 min.
3) Will start OK when using gas without Ethanol.
4) Difficult to start or idle very rough from 5 to 10 min after turning OFF the car after warm-up. It could due to the "vapour lock" in the fuel line near the hot engine (heat soak) when using E10 gas.
Some suggestions when starting difficultly:
1) Open the hood and let the fuel line cool down quickly.
2) Check the fuel pressure regulator valve. The "vapour lock" will form easier at a lower pressure. Sometime change a new fuel pressure regulator valve may solve the problem.
Someone explain to me the principle of vapor lock on a vehicle equipped with a fuel pump located in the fuel tank!
I know vapor lock was an issue back in the days when engines mechanically operated fuel pumps mounted on the block, as they pulled fuel from the fuel tank by means of suction (vacuum), so hot fuel under vacuum could cause vapor to enter the mechanical pump, and the pump would lose its prime.
But someone would need to explain vapor lock on systems with fuel pumps in the fuel tank.
Vapor lock (also known as vapour lock) is a problem that mostly affects gasoline-fueled internal combustion engines. It occurs when the liquid fuel changes state from liquid to gas while still in the fuel delivery system. This disrupts the operation of the fuel pump, causing loss of feed pressure to the carburetor or fuel injection system, resulting in transient loss of power or complete stalling. Restarting the engine from this state may be difficult. The fuel can vaporise due to being heated by the engine, by the local climate or due to a lower boiling point at high altitude. In regions where higher volatility fuels are used during the winter to improve the starting of the engine, the use of "winter" fuels during the summer can cause vapor lock to occur more readily.
Most modern engines are equipped with fuel injection, and have a high pressure electric fuel pump in the fuel tank. Moving the fuel pump to the interior of the tank helps prevent vapor lock, since the entire fuel delivery system is under high pressure and the fuel pump runs cooler than if it is located in the engine compartment. This is the primary reason that vapor lock is rare in modern fuel systems. For the same reason, some carbureted engines are retrofitted with an electric fuel pump near the fuel tank.
Other solutions to vapor lock are rerouting of the fuel lines away from heat generating components, installation of a fuel cooler or cool can, shielding of heat generating components near fuel lines, and insulation of fuel lines.
A vapor lock is more likely to develop when the vehicle is in traffic because the under-hood temperature tends to rise. A vapor lock can also develop when the engine is stopped while hot and the vehicle is parked for a short period. The fuel in the line near the engine does not move and can thus heat up sufficiently to form a vapor lock. The problem is more likely in hot weather or high altitude in either case.
IMO. Vapour lock will form easier with Winter E10 gas in Spring time because the gas stations may still have plenty of Winter gas left in their storage tanks.
Modern cars, on the other hand, typically have electric cooling fans. These fans are linked to a sensor that detects the engine’s temperature, and tells the fan whether to speed up or slow down. As a result, the internal combustion engines in modern cars are less likely to overheat than those in older models, making vapor lock much less common than it used to be.
All of the problems that cause vapor lock are easily corrected, even on older cars. Older cars can often be retrofitted with the newer technology that reduces the likelihood of the fuel lines overheating. For instance, even on a carbureted engine, a low-pressure electric fuel pump can be installed near the fuel tank, which will keep the fuel moving along the lines even if it starts to heat up in the engine compartment.
Another easy remedy for vapor lock in older cars is to install an electric fan in the engine compartment. Many auto parts stores carry aftermarket cooling fans, which can be installed on any car. Some cooling fans can be connected to the existing engine temperature sensor, mimicking the behavior of the cooling fans in modern cars.
Finally, vapor lock can be prevented in any car by protecting the fuel lines from the heat of the engine. There are two ways to do this. One way is to install heat shields between the engine and the fuel lines, which will divert most of the heat away from the lines. Fuel lines can also be insulated to prevent the fuel from getting to the temperatures at which vapor lock occurs.
Three thiongs come to mine when an engine starts fine cold but has difficulty when hot.
1. Check the coil for being in spec with a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual. Also check it for hairline cracks.
2. Check fuel pump pressure when hot. You will have to rig up something to connect a gage to the fuel rail, as there is no schraeder valve on Toyota fuel rails.
3. Check the engine coolant temp sensor for being in spec. Again you will need a digital violt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual.
when was the last time you replaced fuel filter ? you might have some dirt in it which blocks outflow intermittently. it also might have been some crappy fuel (water in it maybe).
I would try adding some fuel system treatment into gas tank so it cleans a bit and turns water into something combustible just in case.
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when was the last time you replaced fuel filter ? you might have some dirt in it which blocks outflow intermittently. it also might have been some crappy fuel (water in it maybe).
I would try adding some fuel system treatment into gas tank so it cleans a bit and turns water into something combustible just in case.
Hmm Its maybe only been about 30000 miles since replaced fuel filter, But i will do so anyways its so cheap. like 15 dollars.
N will put Gas treatment into it to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abew330
you cleaned the TB / IAC?? hows the fuel pump?
^^^ 1+
As for the TB. i look in it, Its kinda dirty, I opened the butterfly value it didn't look to clean.
So no im just gonna buy some cleaner anyways, n clean it,
Should i do Sea foam Or TB Cleaner?
Hmm Its maybe only been about 30000 miles since replaced fuel filter, But i will do so anyways its so cheap. like 15 dollars.
N will put Gas treatment into it to.
get new fuel filter from dealer (OEM) or Napa (WIX branded as Napa Gold). other filters are known to last not much longer than 15k miles.
get some good FUel System CLeaner like Valvoline Complete Fuel System Cleaner, Chevron Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner, Gumout Regane...
Quote:
As for the TB. i look in it, Its kinda dirty, I opened the butterfly value it didn't look to clean.
So no im just gonna buy some cleaner anyways, n clean it,
Should i do Sea foam Or TB Cleaner?
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