Question about Rear Motor Mount on Gen 4

[kento16us]

Hey,

Anyone change their rear motor mount with the front of the car on ramps? Would prefer to have it on ramps then jacking it up and using stands. Is it possible? Since the rear motor mount is connected to the metal bracket that holds the cv joint for the passenger side, would having it on ramps cause problems in getting the mount out?

Thanks

Update 4/16/10

For anyone who has a 2000 camry, the rear mount isn't bad at all. The main part was getting the top bolt off. With a couple of extensions and 1 swivel joint, you can either use a breaker bar or a impact gun. I tried using the breaker bar but didn't feel like i was going in a good angle, so I decided to use the impact gun. Came out in seconds (Get an electric impact gun). Also had to remove the bolt off the front mount as it was keeping the engine from going up at a certain point. Also remove the dog bone, but you probably knew that.

Some people say you have to remove the cv shaft and other stuff. Didn't have to remove anything to get the rear mount off. Was quoted $160 to remove the rear motor mount, saved some cash there. If you have any other questions let me know.

Also I'm pretty sure that I could have used ramps and would have avoided using floor jacks and stands. Except for the floor jack to lift the engine, but with a 3ton jack you should be able to lift the engine past what you need it to be at. Also just lift the engine enough to clear the top stud, then wiggle the mount to the left or right and remove it. No need to make extra space to clear all the studs (top and bottom).

[ASG14]

You HAVE to support the rear of the engine when doing this, so having it up on ramps will make it harder. On the ground, you can simply support the engine with a jack. But a jack may not be able to go high enough if the car is on ramps. Keep that in mind.

[Rattlin_Steele]

Originally Posted by kento16us

Hey,

Anyone change their rear motor mount with the front of the car on ramps? Would prefer to have it on ramps then jacking it up and using stands. Is it possible? Since the rear motor mount is connected to the metal bracket that holds the cv joint for the passenger side, would having it on ramps cause problems in getting the mount out?

Thanks

I'm no expert, but I wouldn't use ramps for this. I wouldn't want the car's suspension involved since the car can shift up and down.

The "mount" is two parts: 1) the mount bracket which also serves as a bearing carrier for the RH axle (has the hole in it to hold the CV axle) and 2) the insulator, which connects the mount bracket to the subframe and is the part I'm assuming you want to change.

Not sure your year Camry and if they vary much (I'm talking Gen4 2.2L I4 here), but if I recall correctly, the insulator has a stud protruding from the top and 3 studs from the bottom. If you are trying to replace it without removing the bracket from the block, you'll have to jack the engine/tranny combo up 1.5 to 3 inches on that side to overcome the top and bottom stud height. And you'd probably need to undo or at least loosen the RH mount on the topside as well and there might be some issues with the exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold. (And probably some other considerations as well).

[JohnGD]

How about just removing the bolt at the top of the mount and those at its base (from the bottom side of the subframe)?

Remove the nuts while on the ramps. Then use the floor jack to lower the car (remove to ramps while raised) to better support the engine. Then raise it up on ramps to access the nuts from the bottom.

It's best to do the final tightening on level ground. But that must be for shops with lifts.

Originally Posted by kento16us

Hey,

Anyone change their rear motor mount with the front of the car on ramps? Would prefer to have it on ramps then jacking it up and using stands. Is it possible? Since the rear motor mount is connected to the metal bracket that holds the cv joint for the passenger side, would having it on ramps cause problems in getting the mount out?

Thanks