3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
yeah without knowing what wires your talking about I cant help you my good sir.
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'89 Toyota Camry Wagon I-4 auto (Stolen, got back with everything ripped off they could get, Sold it)
'93 Ford Taurus sedan (Totaled Sold for scrap)
'95 Pontiac Bonneville (Trans died, Selling for scrap)
'98 Toyota Camry LE 4 Door I-4 Auto (work in progress)
1. With this distributor less system does the connection matter with what connection goes to either because I noticed that they were different colors.
FS, on your 5SFE, your wiring harness should have two connectors, one for each of the two coil packs. They are identical except for color. The gray connector is for cylinders 1 & 4, the black for cyls 2 & 3. Viewing the pair of coil packs from the drivers side of the car, the firing order is 1,4,2,3 from left to right (assuming the coil packs are mounted as the should be).
FS, on your 5SFE, your wiring harness should have two connectors, one for each of the two coil packs. They are identical except for color. The gray connector is for cylinders 1 & 4, the black for cyls 2 & 3. Viewing the pair of coil packs from the drivers side of the car, the firing order is 1,4,2,3 from left to right (assuming the coil packs are mounted as the should be).
Ty and regards to TDC and the camshafts are all valves suppose to be closed? the engine is a 2000 Camry 5sfe i am getting fuel the spark plugs are wet with fuel but I am getting no spark. I just bought new ngk wires and a new battery. We set TDC for the camshafts with cylinder 1 intake valves open. Is that incorrect?
Last edited by Fortified Souls; 04-18-2010 at 02:31 PM.
Just took a quick look at my cams (have two engines on stands right now). I hope I know what I'm talking about on this, but it does not look like any valves are open when the cams are rotated to TDC. I'll try to take a pic here shortly so others my confirm. In other words the tall part of the cam lobes are not in contact with the valves anywhere (all 16 of them).
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Here are pics of each of the four cylinder's cam lobes at TDC. The pics are taken from the timing side of the engine, so the intake lobe is on the left and exhaust on the right.
Cyl 1:
Cyl 2:
Cyl 3:
Cyl 4:
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Again, I'm no expert and have never done any cam/valve work, but in that last pic of yours, that pin/dowel sticking out from timing end of the intake cam should be at the 12:00 position when you're at TDC.
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ty for the pics looks like I need to change it. Should I have to take the camshafts all the way back out or just take the belt off and modify?
I'm not qualified to answer that, best for someone else. My guess is that if the two cams are synced/meshed together properly you can just take the belt off. Otherwise, at least one's going to have to come out.
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I'm not qualified to answer that, best for someone else. My guess is that if the two cams are synced/meshed together properly you can just take the belt off. Otherwise, at least one's going to have to come out.
Could you take a pic of the camshaft dots also? Thanks for all the help.
Last edited by Fortified Souls; 04-18-2010 at 03:42 PM.
The dots are on the drivers side looking down the engine there are going to be small dots I think 1 or 2 are double it looks like the ones in this picture thanks so much!!!!!
I get the impression this work is being done w/o the aide of a shop manual or at least a good Chilton's manual. If so, you really, really, really should get something to help guide you - this is some pretty critical setup stuff. Home these images help you:
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