3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Just finished changing out the headgaskets, valve seals, valve cover gaskets, waterpump, thermostat, all the other gaskets etc. And guess what!? Started her up and shes blowing white smoke outta the exhaust like no tomorrow. You guys know how it looks when you use seafoam, its just like that except it smells like gas. Pulled the plugs, the cylinder walls are wet with fuel and the plugs also. Smell like raw fuel... COuld I have set the distributor back in 180 degrees the wrong way? The previous owner changed the cap and rotor. Anyone got a diagram of which plug wires go where on the distributor? dunno if their plugged in correctly. I am completely lost and quite frankly I am pretty bummed cuz I went thru all that work and its still Fd up... ANY help is appreciated!
From previous posts, looks like you've got a '92. Is she a 5S-FE (4 banger) or 3VZ-FE (6 banger)?
Is the check engine light on? If so, have you checked the blinkin' light for the diagnostic code?
Is she more-or-less running smooth, or shaking herself to death? If the first, then timing, wires, etc. are more-or-less correct.
What's your compression numbers after the rebuild?
Also, do a spark test -- pull a plug (or use a spare plug), connect it up and ground the plug. See if you're getting a big, blue spark. Usually even a crappy spark won't causing that bad of a over-rich, but it's an easy check.
Beyond that, might be worth checking the ECT so see if she's reading real low -- if the ECU thinks the engine is really cold, you're going to get an overrich condition. Quick check on that would be to simply pulll the connector for the ECT -- that will fail-safe the engine to "warmed up", which, at worst, will give a leaned-out condition. If this is a 3VZ, then checking the AFM (airflow meter) to see if it's jammed open or otherwise reading a too-high airflow would be useful.
Hard to believe that the injectors are causing problems if all cylinders are wet...guess we can get to the fuel side if none of the above show anything out of the ordinary....
On the 5sfe the end of the distributer is offset to one side so that it can only be put in one way. What is your car? does it actually run and idle?
92 v6 3vzse I think I may have put the blade in 180 degress flipped.... Your supposed to set the piston to TDC right? She runs and idles just smokes like hell...
What year Carmy? What engine? What cause you to change out the headgasket in the first place?
92 3vzse
Changed out the headgasket as the previous owner claimed he had changed it out. By the way he botched everythin together I figure I'd redo it to be on the safe side.
So you don't know why the previous owner replaced the headgasket? And what symptoms existed that caused you to change it? And which bank did you change (a V6 has two banks, so two headgaskets)?
Never mind about which headgasket - I see you previously said you replaced headgaskets. Silly me. But what about the other questions?
Last edited by 93celicaconv; 04-22-2010 at 12:11 PM.
Reason: Never mind.
From previous posts, looks like you've got a '92. Is she a 5S-FE (4 banger) or 3VZ-FE (6 banger)?
Is the check engine light on? If so, have you checked the blinkin' light for the diagnostic code?
Is she more-or-less running smooth, or shaking herself to death? If the first, then timing, wires, etc. are more-or-less correct.
What's your compression numbers after the rebuild?
Also, do a spark test -- pull a plug (or use a spare plug), connect it up and ground the plug. See if you're getting a big, blue spark. Usually even a crappy spark won't causing that bad of a over-rich, but it's an easy check.
Beyond that, might be worth checking the ECT so see if she's reading real low -- if the ECU thinks the engine is really cold, you're going to get an overrich condition. Quick check on that would be to simply pulll the connector for the ECT -- that will fail-safe the engine to "warmed up", which, at worst, will give a leaned-out condition. If this is a 3VZ, then checking the AFM (airflow meter) to see if it's jammed open or otherwise reading a too-high airflow would be useful.
Hard to believe that the injectors are causing problems if all cylinders are wet...guess we can get to the fuel side if none of the above show anything out of the ordinary....
no check engine lgiht on. runs smooth-ish. no compression test done yet, dont have the tool. New plugs but how do I hook it up to test? I dont quite understand.
will try check the temp sensor by pulling the plug off it. Just cleaned the MAF. Plate was partially open.
Although there is not enough information to confirm or deny this line of thinking, please consider this: The smoke could be OK for now as long as it quits in time.
If you pulled the head because it was running with a blown h/g AND WAS smoking (white smoke), all that moisture is still in the exhaust and it will take about 20min to get 70% of it out. Another 30 to get 90% out and hours to get that final amount out. It will continue to smoke depending on how much water entered the exhaust but will stop in time.
If you fixed the h/g it will stop. IT WILL BE ALARMING for a while. I know, been there done that!
So how does it run? Are they new plugs? Were the heads machined and checked for flatness. What was done to prepare the block surface for the new gasket(s)
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
If there heads were not machined but pulled completey down for cleaning, was a valve job done, where the valves put back where they came from, did the clearances get checked?
The wet plugs could be open valves IF they were messed with as the valve may not be seating now????? As opposed to just popping the keepers and springs off to replace the seals.
Can you share more details about what was done to the heads?
Thanks,
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
You guys know how it looks when you use seafoam, its just like that except it smells like gas. Pulled the plugs, the cylinder walls are wet with fuel and the plugs also. Smell like raw fuel
sure doesn't sound like burning off the leftover water to me...
If it runs at all your distributor cant be 180 off. Ive done head gasket jobs before where coolant was dumping into the exhaust. In those cases it does take some time to smoke out all the coolant thats trapped in the exhaust. You did mention that the smoke smells like gas though, so its possible that its just running too rich for some reason. As mentioned above the coolant temp sensor is a good place to start looking in that case. How did it run before you took it apart?
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