95 Camry 2.2L 4Cyl stalled, no spark - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-26-2010, 03:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation 95 Camry 2.2L 4Cyl stalled, no spark

I have 95 Camry 2.2L 4cyl, with under 200 000km. The car stalled after driving for 45min. and will not start. Starter turns but engine doesn't fire up. There is no spark. This is the first time that this happen. The car is in very good condition and well maintained. Within last year I have replaced: timing belt, spark plugs and plug cables, distributor, rotor, fuel filter.
Ignition coil resistance (primary and secondary) are correct, and pickup coil also.
I know that I should check power supply to ignition coil and igniter but not sure how to do it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 04-26-2010, 09:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I would remove that coil form the distributor and check it for cracks. It may have a crack and can short itself to any metal ground inside the distributor. This is a fairly common problem for Toyota coils as they rack up lot's of miles.

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Old 04-26-2010, 09:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hmmmmm. You'd hope that the components in the "new" dizzy would've lasted longer than a year, but you never know with reman'd stuff (given the price of new, I assume this was reman'd).

Anywho, for troubleshooting info, see the FSM at www.camrystuff.com , Generation 3, Ignition System -- lots of good troubleshooting information there. Like Mike said, the coil is the big failure point in these rigs -- if it's a hard-fail (not on-again, off-again), a simple ohmmeter check of the coil should be enough to give you a go / no go.
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Old 04-26-2010, 09:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for a quick reply. I've check ignition coil resistance with wires removed and got a correct reading.
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Old 04-27-2010, 01:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadean View Post
Thanks for a quick reply. I've check ignition coil resistance with wires removed and got a correct reading.
Both primary and secondary checked out, right?

OK. I'll have to refresh my memory on testing the igniter. In the meantime, pop off the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is spinning when you crank the car. Not much of a chance the timing belt snapped if it was changed out last year, but it's an easy check.
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Old 04-27-2010, 02:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just out of curiousity, why did you replace the distributor last year? Sound like you never had a situation where you had no spark, based on your initial post, but yet you changed your distributor last year. Just curious.
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Eh, no wonder I couldn't remember how to test the igniter...the FSM tests it by swapping it out (ugh!). Anyway, page 26 of the FSM (given above) has the "no spark" troubleshooting flow -- I'd work my way through that.

If you happen to get to the point you need to swap igniters, a junkyard part would be a reasonably inexpensive way to go -- igniters aren't real failure-prone, so a junkyard pull would normally be trustworthy.
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Old 04-28-2010, 03:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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First I 'd like to thank you all for the help.
I've replaced only distributor cup last year. Cranking with a cup off, showed that a rotor is rotating and that ruled - out faulty timing belt.
Now the update: the car was towed to a mechanic and he started by ordering a used igniter.
I'll keep you posted.
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Old 05-01-2010, 05:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Update.
The other igniter did not start the car and my mechanic ordered a new distributor. He said that it's an igniter or a distributor that fails most often. After installing a new distributor the car started and is running well.
I tested the old distributor ( primary coil, secondary coil, pick - up coil and gaps ) again on my bench and got all readings correct. Looks like Haynes and camrystuff.com manual, tests of the distributor are totally useless and the easiest way would be to just swap these parts.
My mechanic charged me for a new distributor $260, labour $150, towing and taxes with a total just under $600.
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Old 05-02-2010, 08:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The coil can test normal and still have a crack that shorts it to ground inside the distributor housing. I would still remove it from the old distributor (assuming you haven't done that) and visually inspect it carefully. If you do find cracks, you may even be able to take it back to your mechanic and show him the real problem. You might even be able to get some money back.

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