3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I need to do the front brakes really soon and I'm looking for a good rotor but it lighter than these stock crappers so I can gain a little more hp. Figure if I can save 1.5lbs on each rotor that is 3lbs of rotational mass should be 5hp roughly.
Then I gotta get rid of the stock steelies.
to answer any of your questions i have no idea and rather sure your not going to fine one labeled camry light weight rotor the only thing i can think of is try and cross referance one that will
a. be the same diameter
b. thickness
c. bolt pattern
or you can have a brake shop mill the disk down to be a little over min thickness and you have to watch it to make sure it doesnt get too thin or any other problems
now weight with tire is hard because what tire do you have? last time i bought tires for my steelies i seen the weight be anywhere from 21lbs to ~30lbs (same with my gen 6 rims)
Umm, not sure to be exact, I will go out and look at lunch. I was more concered with the rim weight since my tires are still in good shape. Unless I just say screw it and get some 15" slipstreams and tires. The 15" slips are 11.8lbs (we will say 12 to make things easier) and say the stock rim is 16.
4lbs x 2 (since we are fwd) 8lbs of rotational mass is a lot. Now save that an each corner 16lbs that should help out a lot with gas mileage.
The rims are like $112 shipped each. I just need to know what size offset I need. 5x114.3 I think for lug pattern? It will be +40mm as that is the only size it comes in. And it will be a 7" wide rim. So as long as it doesn't look stupid I think I may go this route.
From the Title I had to look and see what your intentions are. . . Figuring you were intending to drag race. . .
As seen above your intent is a street car looking for fuel effeciency and "no" i didn't read the link but I will say the last place I'd chop weight on a daily driver is the rotors. Their mass adds cooling, strength, and longevity thus, what ever you think you might save in $$$$GAS$$$$ will be spent at the brake shop getting new rotors after those warp and tweak out of shape.
Less mass to move take less kw's. OK - true. Is the brake system the best place to chop the weight on a daily driver? I don;t think so! Sure, drag cars use aluminum rotors cuz they make 10,000hp and use the brakes once to stop. The family car is not a drag car. . .
Best of luck on that one. . .
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
light weight rotors for gas mileage hm? interesting idea....I guess it'll depend on if you drive mostly intown or on the highway...remember...objects in motion tend to stay in motion....
as for light-weight rotors, go to companies that make two-piece rotors with removable top-hats and you'll save a good 3 or 4 lbs per rotor probably
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
You're trying to shave off 3lbs.........take out the spare tire. Done, and then some. Your clothes, and shoes are probably more than 3lbs. The floor mats are about 3lbs. The spare is way more than 3lbs. useless junk in the car that you don't use on a daily basis is more than 3lbs.
3lbs is not going to make any difference on these cars. If we were talking about 10, 20, 30lbs, then yes. That would make a difference, not a measly 3lbs.
Hell, I could shave 3lbs off any car without even touching it. Just give me a dose of ex-lax, and 30mins.
3lbs, and off the BRAKES are you serious?
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"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country." - Kurt Vonnegut
You're trying to shave off 3lbs.........take out the spare tire. Done, and then some. Your clothes, and shoes are probably more than 3lbs. The floor mats are about 3lbs. The spare is way more than 3lbs. useless junk in the car that you don't use on a daily basis is more than 3lbs.
3lbs is not going to make any difference on these cars. If we were talking about 10, 20, 30lbs, then yes. That would make a difference, not a measly 3lbs.
Hell, I could shave 3lbs off any car without even touching it. Just give me a dose of ex-lax, and 30mins.
3lbs, and off the BRAKES are you serious?
3lbs of rotational mass is a lot different than 3lbs of crap sitting there.
Why do you think rota slipstream wheels are sooo popular? It's because they are LIGHT and strong. That is why everyone is going Enkei RPF1's. It's the new hotness, light and strong.
Why else would they sell lightweight lug nuts? Saving a few grams doesn't do shit, but if it's rotational everything helps.
They even make performance tires that are lighter weight than other tires in the same size.
^ he's right. thats something we who do the supra TT rotor conversion have to deal with. the TT rotors are quite a bit heavier then the stock ones and that adds up. but when it comes to brakes most will trade stopping power for acceleration...including me.
ive never seen light weight camry rotors, and iv'e looked. BUT they do make light weight SUPRA TT rotors that are apparently lighter then the stock ones on the camry. i found these a while back but havnt been able to locate them again. they were carbon-ceramic and VERY expensive. if you were able to smag these...youd have your cake and eat it too...but youd have to warm them up to get them to work at all.
I was looking at the autozone rotors and they are 13.55 lbs, one of them is slightly larger. I found some brembo blanks online but it didn't say a weight, but they were $13, so I ordered them but go figure it got cancelled for being out of stock.
I'm keep looking for something that is sub 13lbs.
Hey this is nothing personal, just expressing some thoughts so people see both sides.
Think about this, if you try to accellerate a mass from 0 rotations to 10,000 rotations in 1 second, yea weight matters. We are talking a passenger car here so something more realistic would be like 0 rotations to 10 rotations in a second. In this case you have to accllerate the whole car which is MUCH heavier than the 12lbs you saved by chucking your rotors.
Do some research on Polar moment of inertia, mean torque applied, and rotational velocity. If you apply X amount of torque to put a mass in motion and then lighten the mass and apply the same amount of torque what's time difference? 1/1,000,000 of second? Because its the WHOLE car you must accellerate, not just the rotor it just isn't worth the potential loss in braking and reliability.
Chuck the Big Gulp and golf bag and anything else that's not bolted down.
OK - I'm done
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
I agree... Your source shows the difference between the rotors. The new rotors they put on were way cleaner than the old ones in the first place. As you use your brakes the pads mold down to the shape of the rotors, the friction would be obviously different, Look at the ridges on the evo's old rotors, those were bad anyway and very restrictive if the pad was rubbing constantly which is one thing that creates those ribs on the rotor. The new rotors were obviously clean and smooth and the pads were probably adjusted differently and had very little friction. That showed more horsepower, the weight is rediculous, to rotate the rotors takes barely any effort compared to moving the whole car. Also that looks like an ad for those rotors, dont believe everything you read on the Internet!
P.s. If you read under the dyno sheet it says, "YES, BRAKES MAKE POWER TOO!" This just shows how unscientific this was, brakes never make power, they restrict power. WHAT POWER DO THEY CREATE? I'm sorry but bologna!
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