3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I posted this in the wrong area before. So, now I'm reposting in the right area.
Ok, I admit it. I did a dumb thing. I need to get the front rotor off of my '98 Camry to get it turned. I pulled off the caliper and the brake rotor would not move. Quite rusty. So, I got a socket and pulled off the center big nut and tried to use a 3 arm puller to remove the rotor! You can probably guess what happened next. Well I didn't get the rotor off, but I now have the whole spindle halfway off the steering!
After reading this thread how to remove rotors
now I know how I should have done it, but I didn't
So, how do I get the spindle back on without disassembling the whole thing. It's not all the way off, but it's far enough off that I cannot rethread the center nut. Boy, do I feel stupid!
Are the threads still protruding far enough to get the nut back on for 3 threads or so? If yes, then just put the nut on and tighten it up. I forget the torque req'd; somewhere around 150 ft-lbs, I think. The nut should be able to pull the axle back into place.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Thank for your reply. No, their not. I can almost thread the bolt...but not quite. Perhaps I could put a jack under the rotor and raise it just a bit to get the rotor centered on the steering bolt and then it would thread? The spindle seems to be slightly off-center now. I sure hope I don't have to disassemble the whole thing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR
Are the threads still protruding far enough to get the nut back on for 3 threads or so? If yes, then just put the nut on and tighten it up. I forget the torque req'd; somewhere around 150 ft-lbs, I think. The nut should be able to pull the axle back into place.
Ah, OK. Makes it a bit more difficult, but not bad. Yeah, raise the suspension up a little with a jack to get the shaft aligned better. Don't put the jack on the rotor, put it under the suspension arm behind the rotor.
The shaft has splines on it that fit snug in the bore. If it's crooked it's hard to get it to slide in. With it jacked up, you'll have to grab the drive shaft behind the rotor and pull it through. Make sure you've got things blocked up, on jackstands, etc. when you do this so it doesn't fall on ya! If things are rusted, you might spritz it down with some light oil like WD40 or PB blaster to help things.
__________________
1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
Thanks BMR. That is what I was hoping to hear! I will give it a try in the morning. I just don't want to have to disassemble.
Best,
Michael
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR
Ah, OK. Makes it a bit more difficult, but not bad. Yeah, raise the suspension up a little with a jack to get the shaft aligned better. Don't put the jack on the rotor, put it under the suspension arm behind the rotor.
The shaft has splines on it that fit snug in the bore. If it's crooked it's hard to get it to slide in. With it jacked up, you'll have to grab the drive shaft behind the rotor and pull it through. Make sure you've got things blocked up, on jackstands, etc. when you do this so it doesn't fall on ya! If things are rusted, you might spritz it down with some light oil like WD40 or PB blaster to help things.
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