Brakes lock up after new booster

[Cranky-Condor]

It's like one thing after another with these brakes...

Our 01 Solara SLE failed state inspection in PA for a bad brake booster so I bought a reman one at Advanced and put it on... Passed inspection but on the way home the brakes locked up rock solid. So I pulled it over and released some fluid from both brake lines at the master cylinder.. Which freed up the brakes and I drove home without a problem... I also found that the return brake pedal return spring had come loose.

So what's the problem? Did the lack of th return spring gradually push the MC but then why did the fluid not flow back into the MC? I did read that the rod connecting the booster and the MC might not be adjusted properly so the brakes might be slightly on all the time? btw, it has traction control so did that play any part at all?

Helppppp.....

Thanks
CC

[chronoti]

yes, did you bleed everything right?

abs controller
back passenger
back driver
front driver
front passenger

that order (i think is right for abs i know normal is furthest 1st)

also the replace your booster thing is crap, pure crap, camry from day one have a "soft and musshy" feel, ss lines have fixed this for alot of people to pass inspectons but my camry with ss lines still feel softer than my caddy with 16 year old lines.

[Cranky-Condor]

Where's the ABS control? I didn't do that but did all the rest right...

I did the 4 tests for the booster like in my manual... The first 3 showed it was ok but the last one... with the car running step on the brake and then turn the engine off and the brake pedal should stay and not move... I put both feet on the pedal and tried to hold it back and when shut off it rose back to the top every time... The 2000 Sienna doesn't do that... With the new booster installed it also doesn't rise when the engine is turned off..

[73sport]

I suspect you have the rod length from the booster into the master cylinder out too far.

What this does is, it allows the brakes to be applied, but because the m/c does NOT return completely a small port is effectively blocked which does not allow the line pressure to bleed down and return to the m/c resovoir.

Remove the m/c and see if the rod adjusts or maybe a something has a slightly different P/N and the currently married couple do not belong together???

With the nuts off the studs, gently push the m/c down to the booster. Do you feel a tiny spring pressure just before it touches the booster. If so, you're applying the brakes ever so slightly and blocking the return port.

NOTE: the goal is have a small amount of freeplay between the push-rod and the master cyl piston.

Lucky you had a wrench with you!

EDIT: If the above does nothing to solve this, sometimes when doing the final bleed you need to equalize the pressure from front to rear. Meaning, after you do this:

abs controller
back passenger
back driver
front driver
front passenger

Go back and just crack the back passenger for a 1/2 sec.

[Cranky-Condor]

Thanks! The wrench was in my wife's Sienna who was fallowing me.... luckily.. I'll check that out as soon as I get home tonight... if I can drag the TV out into the driveway so I can watch the begining of the second round of the Stanley Cup playoff's!! lol

[chronoti]

abs controll should be near where the windshield fluid is

[Cranky-Condor]

Thanks... Does the ABS control unit have it's own bleed screw? I kind of rfemember seeing it but never really paid much attention...

[933VZFE]

Originally Posted by chronoti

abs controll should be near where the windshield fluid is

If its in the same place as gen3's its under the windshield washer fluid reservoir, you have to remove the tank to get to it.

My gen3 had no bleeders on the ABS distribution block but you can always crack a line (outgoing) to bleed it.

[Cranky-Condor]

Thanks! I pulled the MC and adjusted the push rod as per the directions but it is still not 100% and builds some pressure in the lines so tonight I'm pulling it again and readjusting ti.

[73sport]

Hint: if you put some clay or plumbers putty in the MC piston and insert MC very carfully torquing it down and then remove it; it should not be smashed completely through to the piston (don't push the brake, just bolt it down and un-bolt it).

You just need a little ball of it in the hole. When you back it off enough, it will just leave a tiny impression but not punch it completely through. you want just a tiny bit of clearance! 1/32 or so. Check the manual for spec.


NOTE: the goal is have a small amount of freeplay between the push-rod and the master cyl piston.
Does that make sense?

[Cranky-Condor]

Make perfect sense!! That's what I'm going to try tonight... Thanks...

[Cranky-Condor]

Originally Posted by 73sport

Hint: if you put some clay or plumbers putty in the MC piston and insert MC very carfully torquing it down and then remove it; it should not be smashed completely through to the piston (don't push the brake, just bolt it down and un-bolt it).

You just need a little ball of it in the hole. When you back it off enough, it will just leave a tiny impression but not punch it completely through. you want just a tiny bit of clearance! 1/32 or so. Check the manual for spec.


NOTE: the goal is have a small amount of freeplay between the push-rod and the master cyl piston.
Does that make sense?

Worked like a charm!! Took 3 trys to get it right on and it drives and stops perfectly! Thanks!

[73sport]

There ya go! Glad that worked for ya!

Take care. . .
73