3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Obviously a car with as many miles as mine is going to have a few... quirks.
I'll just list a few issues and see what you guys have to say about them, most of them are probably easy to fix.
-Drivers door "popping" when opened.
-Fairly severe engine vibration when in gear, with RPM fluctuation. (Goes away somewhat when A/C is engaged)
-Severe clunking from rear suspension, quite literally sounds like the sub-frame is hitting the vehicle.
-Power antenna will not move up or down, stuck in the middle.
-Many interior creaks, is there a way I can glue the dash so that some of the noise will stop?
-Sometimes violent 1st to 2nd shifts, TCC solenoid is bad but that shouldn't make a difference. New trans fluid as of 191K miles (currently has 197k). Changing the fluid made the problem slightly worse. The problem is mainly at low speeds, however it "clunks" under normal acceleration. Probably just very worn.
-Holes worn into center armrest, where can I find a replacement?
-Drivers door "popping" when opened.
>>>Check the piece between the hinges (the thing that keeps the door open) for movement on the end.
-Fairly severe engine vibration when in gear, with RPM fluctuation. (Goes away somewhat when A/C is engaged)
>>>Check mounts.
>>>Rapid RPM change often means a vacuum leak. Also could be the IAC and Thtottle Body beed to be cleaned.
-Severe clunking from rear suspension, quite literally sounds like the sub-frame is hitting the vehicle.
>>> Sway Bar Bushings (least likely)
>>> Sway Bar Links (Possibly)
>>> Strut Mounts (Most Likely)
-Power antenna will not move up or down, stuck in the middle.
>>> Then you turn the radio on/off, do you hear the power antenna motor working?
>>>Yes-Mast of gears broke. 80% it;s the mast.
>>>No-Motor is bed, replace the unit.
-Many interior creaks, is there a way I can glue the dash so that some of the noise will stop?
???????????????
-Sometimes violent 1st to 2nd shifts, TCC solenoid is bad but that shouldn't make a difference. New trans fluid as of 191K miles (currently has 197k). Changing the fluid made the problem slightly worse. The problem is mainly at low speeds, however it "clunks" under normal acceleration. Probably just very worn.
>>>Leads me to think is this is related to the "vibration". When you hit the gas, do you hear a clunk from the engine bay? Just 1 clunk after accelerator is touched? From both a stop AND when moving? If so, your front engine mount is toast (The one under the exhaust header)
-Holes worn into center armrest, where can I find a replacement?
>>>F/S section here. Keep in mind, there are 2 main types. The I4 and the V6 with the 5-speed (Hand parking brake) use a different armrest then the V6 Auto (foot parking brake).
__________________
Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
The Following User Says Thank You to ASG14 For This Useful Post:
-Drivers door "popping" when opened.
>>>Check the piece between the hinges (the thing that keeps the door open) for movement on the end.
-Fairly severe engine vibration when in gear, with RPM fluctuation. (Goes away somewhat when A/C is engaged)
>>>Check mounts.
>>>Rapid RPM change often means a vacuum leak. Also could be the IAC and Thtottle Body beed to be cleaned.
-Severe clunking from rear suspension, quite literally sounds like the sub-frame is hitting the vehicle.
>>> Sway Bar Bushings (least likely)
>>> Sway Bar Links (Possibly)
>>> Strut Mounts (Most Likely)
-Power antenna will not move up or down, stuck in the middle.
>>> Then you turn the radio on/off, do you hear the power antenna motor working?
>>>Yes-Mast of gears broke. 80% it;s the mast.
>>>No-Motor is bed, replace the unit.
-Many interior creaks, is there a way I can glue the dash so that some of the noise will stop?
???????????????
-Sometimes violent 1st to 2nd shifts, TCC solenoid is bad but that shouldn't make a difference. New trans fluid as of 191K miles (currently has 197k). Changing the fluid made the problem slightly worse. The problem is mainly at low speeds, however it "clunks" under normal acceleration. Probably just very worn.
>>>Leads me to think is this is related to the "vibration". When you hit the gas, do you hear a clunk from the engine bay? Just 1 clunk after accelerator is touched? From both a stop AND when moving? If so, your front engine mount is toast (The one under the exhaust header)
-Holes worn into center armrest, where can I find a replacement?
>>>F/S section here. Keep in mind, there are 2 main types. The I4 and the V6 with the 5-speed (Hand parking brake) use a different armrest then the V6 Auto (foot parking brake).
Ah, my car is a '95 V6 Auto.
As for the interior squeaks, it sounds like it's coming from where the dash meets the windshield, so I was wondering if I could simply glue it in with super-glue or the likes.
The car sort of BANGS into reverse every once and a while, makes quite a noise from the front. Other times it will slip into reverse perfectly smooth. But there's only a very slight audible clunk when shifting from 1st to 2nd, and a good jerk, enough to make your head hit the headrest when driving in the city (shifts at about 1900RPM at minimal throttle). Doesn't happen when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th. I've tried resetting the PCM/ECU by leaving the battery out over night, which doesn't make a difference in how it shifts.
The Throttle body and MAF were recently cleaned using Murray's spray cleaners and a few clean rags, so that should be fine.
As for the antenna, it clicks and moves slightly, then stops.
The squeeking, I think it may be coming from the Black plastic vents by the windshield.
I do think the clunk (Not reallt heard, but felt) is the frony motor mount, under the exhaust header. As long as it actually shifts ok, and goes into gear ok, thats likely the issue.
The idle can still be the IAC valve. But I'd lean more to the side of there being a vacuum leack somewhere. Check the rubber piece between the throttle body and the airbox for cracks.
For the antenna, It could be either then antenna mast or the gear like that. I'd say the mast has a bent section on the metal. It hink you can get a new one at Pepboys for around $20 thats an exact replacement.
__________________
Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
The squeeking, I think it may be coming from the Black plastic vents by the windshield.
I do think the clunk (Not reallt heard, but felt) is the frony motor mount, under the exhaust header. As long as it actually shifts ok, and goes into gear ok, thats likely the issue.
The idle can still be the IAC valve. But I'd lean more to the side of there being a vacuum leack somewhere. Check the rubber piece between the throttle body and the airbox for cracks.
For the antenna, It could be either then antenna mast or the gear like that. I'd say the mast has a bent section on the metal. It hink you can get a new one at Pepboys for around $20 thats an exact replacement.
The car mostly shifts fine, the more throttle you give the smoother it shifts, but after I've been driving in the city for a while then I give it some gas it takes a while to shift, it's not instant like it should be, the RPM's seems to glide down as it shifts instead of instantly move down from 1st to 2nd, I really think that gear is going to start slipping badly sometime soon.
Where is the IAC located? And can I use throttle body cleaner on it?
I did notice that my left engine mount (nearest the washer fluid bottle) appears to be cracking.. should I be worried?
I'll probably pop into Pepboys later, but is there a tutorial of some sort on these forums on how to change it? This sounds like something I'd perfectly ruin then have to live with a hole in the top of my fender.
Do a couple Drain and Fills of the tranny fluid. That may help. Do the drain and fills 500 miles apart. Clean ATF (Auto Tranny Fluid) may help with the shifting.
The IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve is on the bottom of the throttle body. It;s a bitch to get off, lol. Don;t worry about it.
That mount, when it is bad, is actually a major point for engine vibration. It;s not too hard to replace it yourself. It;s just 2 bolts.
LOL! IT;s not too bad to change. I'm actually getting a car this weekend that I will be parting out. If the Power Antenna and mast are good, I'll sell the entire unit to you pretty cheap. It;s actually easier to replace the entire thing, then just the mast. But if you like, I can write up a quick DIY for you with some pictures for replacing the antenna. IT won;t take me long.
__________________
Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
Do a couple Drain and Fills of the tranny fluid. That may help. Do the drain and fills 500 miles apart. Clean ATF (Auto Tranny Fluid) may help with the shifting.
The IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve is on the bottom of the throttle body. It;s a bitch to get off, lol. Don;t worry about it.
That mount, when it is bad, is actually a major point for engine vibration. It;s not too hard to replace it yourself. It;s just 2 bolts.
LOL! IT;s not too bad to change. I'm actually getting a car this weekend that I will be parting out. If the Power Antenna and mast are good, I'll sell the entire unit to you pretty cheap. It;s actually easier to replace the entire thing, then just the mast. But if you like, I can write up a quick DIY for you with some pictures for replacing the antenna. IT won;t take me long.
I'm just concerned that if one drain and refill of the fluid made the shifting worse (and I believe that's due to the old fluid being more viscous and easier on the 1st to 2nd clutch pack) then what will a few do? I bought this car from my Sister who's had it since 130K miles and she'd never changed the trans-fluid, so that was the first thing I did when I got the car at 191K.
I'll have the dealership look at my cars mounts and rear suspension to be sure, I've been going to them for repairs for a while so I can probably get it done free.
Thanks for the offer! xD But I wont put you through that, if there isn't already a pic'd tutorial then I'll get my brother to help me.
And how much would you want for the antenna assembly? Being a student I don't have much to offer.
Drain and fill will NOT hurt anything. Your thinking of a "flush". Many people say a flush is bad as it disturbes the entire transmission. A drain and fill only drains what is in the pan, only about 20% of the total fluid. Nothing else is touched. That is why I say wait 500 miles before the next drain and fill. That way everything recirculates and you get more of the old fluid out. Older fluid, if it;s really bad, can actually make the shifting worse.
For the mounts, IF the front or rear mount is bad (normally the front), the engine will move a lot more back and fourth, which will break the exhaust flex pipe. That may actually be what caused your flex pipe to break. IF the mount is original, it likely is bad at your mileage.
For the antenna, it's REALLY no problem. I do that stuff all the time for people. I won't actually take the antenna mast out, but I will still show how to. It;s really no problem. Then you can show that to your brother.
For the antenna assembly (assuming it works), Probably around $30-$35 shipped/Paypal. If it doesn't work, I'll see if any of my friends have one they can sell. Just let me know. But if all you need is a new mast, just replace that. It will be cheaper.
__________________
Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
Obviously a car with as many miles as mine is going to have a few... quirks.
I'll just list a few issues and see what you guys have to say about them, most of them are probably easy to fix.
-Drivers door "popping" when opened.
-Fairly severe engine vibration when in gear, with RPM fluctuation. (Goes away somewhat when A/C is engaged)
-Severe clunking from rear suspension, quite literally sounds like the sub-frame is hitting the vehicle.
-Power antenna will not move up or down, stuck in the middle.
-Many interior creaks, is there a way I can glue the dash so that some of the noise will stop?
-Sometimes violent 1st to 2nd shifts, TCC solenoid is bad but that shouldn't make a difference. New trans fluid as of 191K miles (currently has 197k). Changing the fluid made the problem slightly worse. The problem is mainly at low speeds, however it "clunks" under normal acceleration. Probably just very worn.
-Holes worn into center armrest, where can I find a replacement?
Thanks in advance!
Were in MI are you? I might be able to help you out if you are close enough PM me
__________________
1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
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