Wrong Power Steering Fluid, What Needs to be Replaced?

[SRN]

Greetings,

I bought a second 1992 Toyota Camry (great cars) a bit ago and as the weather is improving I thought it was time to go through and do a tune up. I've noticed that the power steering pump is leaking and when I went to check the fluid level I noticed it had good old fashion power steering fluid in the tank rather than Dextron ATF fluid. I'm assuming that the petroleum distillates in the PS Fluid has eaten through the seals.

My question is, how far does the damage go? Am I looking at just needing to replace the pump, or is the steering rack a goner too? Any help from the experts out there would be appreciated.

Thanks,

-Stephen

[hzt30]

How does the steering behave? If it is just leaking at this point, you could flush the old stuff out and replace with Dexron. Also, you could try Lucas power steering stop leak. I put it in my 1990 and it helped alot.

[73sport]

^^
IMO - never use stop leak additives on ANYTHING! They use solvents to swell the rubber. When the solvents have gone and evaporated, the leak returns at usually a signifigantly higher rate!

When it swells, the seal cleans the varnish from the contact patch. The seal retracts and thin layer of varnish is gone - it leaks! If you plan to keep it. Fix it. If you need to drive it home form the boonies, add the gue. . .

I'd flush it with Dex. Drive it 100 miles. Pressure was it and see where it leaks. When you fix the leak, flush it again. Call it done.

[SRN]

Originally Posted by 73sport

^^
IMO - never use stop leak additives on ANYTHING! They use solvents to swell the rubber. When the solvents have gone and evaporated, the leak returns at usually a signifigantly higher rate!

When it swells, the seal cleans the varnish from the contact patch. The seal retracts and thin layer of varnish is gone - it leaks! If you plan to keep it. Fix it. If you need to drive it home form the boonies, add the gue. . .

I'd flush it with Dex. Drive it 100 miles. Pressure was it and see where it leaks. When you fix the leak, flush it again. Call it done.

I agree. Additives are no good.

The streering handles fine. The leak is noticable, but not terrible at this point. Even if it is only leaking from the pump, could the rack be damaged? I'll definately flush it with Dextron, but I just want to get an idea.

[73sport]

^ That's good!

Just flush it couple times and cross your fingers. I'm sure yours is not the first! - Do a search there are threads too!

You will find quick success with a helper to A) start/stop the engine, B) add fluid quickly so the resovoir doesn't run dry. Avoid THAT so it doesn't pump air into the system. Turn the wheel S L O W L Y to avoid puting air in the system. * Remember to get all the old oil out of the rack it must be turned all the way left and right to empty the piston bore.

Prepare with 4qts. You can use the rest later.

[LittleWhiteBubble]

theres a how-to in the DIY thread for flushing it. You don't have to run the engine while flushing it, that way you wont be as rushed to add fluid back in. I just did it recently, and used the DIY steps, it was quick and simple. It took me about 20-30 minutes.

[flyeri]

The reg ps fluid probably did not cause your leak. In fact the Gen 3 manual calls for DOT 3 fluid. It is wierd that the filler calls for Dex II. I would do the flush as described in the DIY (its pretty good) and then clean up the area and try to determine the exact source of the leak. I would not replace something until it proves to be bad.

[ASG14]

How do you know what is in it if you didn;t put it in?

[LittleWhiteBubble]

It is NOT dot 3 brake fluid. Do not add brake fluid to the power steering system! It takes Dexron II atf, that is what is stated in the toyota shop service manual on page 24 of the steering components section.

[redtigerrocks]

So you can't use Dexron 3? Talking about a Gen 3

[fenixus]

camry gen3 & 4 call for any ATF fluid in power steering, so you can use either Dexron-II/III or Mercon-V or Castrol/Mobile1 synthetic blend ATF (for import vehicles). they all work fine in both tranny/diff and P/S on our cars.

do NOT put brake fluid in P/S as you will screw up all seals and hoses!

also do NOT use a generic Power Steering fluid (even Valvoline which I used once for dissolving honey substance in my P/S tank hehehe), it doesn't provide enough shear protection as regular ATF (or better synthetic blend ATF).

DIY for flushing the P/S, very easy with like $14 parts from Home Depot:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html

good luck!

[redtigerrocks]

Do you recommend filling up to the Max-Cold or Max-Hot?

[fenixus]

on running engine and after shifting through all gears you should read HIGH HOT mark after fluid settles down from filler tube (give it like 10 mins of idling).

i have to say that I loose my patience when filling the tranny up and i start slowly (locally only) driving it after pouring initial 2qts which would be around between HIGH COLD and LOW HOT marks. then i re-check half hour later and refill as needed until it all settles at HIGH HOT mark on a hot car (after shifting through gears)

The best idea is to measure how much fluid drains out and then pour in exact same amount (if the level was proper in first place).

[73sport]

fenixus, ya derailed the thread over to a tranny flush, but thats OK -

Something I will add to the "poor back the same amount you took out" line is this. The Tranny sump only holds a about 3 qts before the fluid is up into the clutches and drums which soon puts it close to the breather cap = overflow mess!

Add 2 to 3 qts max, start the engine. Continue adding fluid and checking the stick. For the transmissions sake, perform the refill and fluid adjustment while the front end is suspended off the ground. THis way you can run it through the gears, let the bubbles out, raise the temp, test the shift pattern and check/adjust the fluid w/out fear of burning a clutch up because you drove away from the house LOW ON FLUID and drove it home!

Bench test so to speak. Observe all safety precautions while spinning wheels on a car supported by jack stands.

If you can't do this while wheels are in the air, at least put into drive for 4min. and reverse for 4min. then check the fluid again and again until its correct. EDIT EDIT EDIT: You said that!

Power Steering Flush -
If you choose not to run the engine during a flush cycle, be sure to turn the rack completely Full Left and Full Right to push the stagnent fluid from the both sides of the racks piston. Otherwise your flush will leave old fluid behind. Obvioulsy you never get all of the old fluid out, but running the engine and steering the wheels from lock to lock will help move most of it out.

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by 73sport

fenixus, ya derailed the thread over to a tranny flush, but thats OK -

right

i need another cup of coffee