3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
i take my car into the mountains once in awhile and the roads are narrow and curvy, and i can't go at the speeds that the porsche tailgating me can.
to get better handling when taking curves, do i need a strut bar or a sway bar for stiffer suspension? (i'm hoping not to have to replace the shocks/suspension lol)
In order to keep up with a Porsche you will need a rear sway bar, springs + struts + chamber kit, and wider wheels with stickier tires. it wouldn't hurt to loose some weight as well.
While I believe that all of the above mods are worth it, It would be much cheaper to just pull over and let the Porsche pass.
i don't mind letting faster cars pass, neither am i trying to keep up with a porsche in a camry.
i just want to be able to take the curves better than what the stock vehicle is able to handle right now...you know, even when i'm the only car on the road.
Rear sway bar will make a much larger difference than a strut bar.
But strut bars can be found for low prices on ebay and they're good enough to help a bit with stiffening the front.
If someone tailgates you again, take your foot of the gas, and slow down. They will either back off, or go around you. Don't let a tailgater bully you into doing something stupid.
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like others have said...start with teh sway bar, then stiffer springs and shocks. if your not looking for a lowered stance then something like eibachs are perfect because they dont lower the car much.
You can also get a strut bar if there is a Solara equivalent for your model year. But sway bars first. I think your struts are probably shot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darchrow Enigma
i take my car into the mountains once in awhile and the roads are narrow and curvy, and i can't go at the speeds that the porsche tailgating me can.
to get better handling when taking curves, do i need a strut bar or a sway bar for stiffer suspension? (i'm hoping not to have to replace the shocks/suspension lol)
The rear sway bar is also called an anti-roll bar, anti-sway bar, etc. It's purpose is to reduce body roll in the way that it attaches the rear suspension and works by a twisting motion. With aftermarket springs/struts and adding the sway bar, it was a night/day difference. The strut bar, not so much, but it did stiffen up the front of the chassis a bit and I felt that it helped to control some of the oversteer induced by the sway bar. That's just my experience though. If you really want increased handling, I'd get a set of coilovers before springs, struts, and RSB. Like other said, tires are also important.
awesome, thanks for the informative posts
(i'll likely upgrade more parts, but not all at once...kinda broke here, haha)
i don't think my struts are blown, my car doesn't bounce like a motorboat does on the sea.
more questions though...
1. where are some reputable places i can purchase these parts? (http://www.whiteline.com.au)??
2. i was planning on taking the parts to a local mechanic to have them installed for me...is that wise, or are there some sort of specialty shops that i should take it to instead
3. i don't want to lower my car...is it possible to replace the springs without lowering the car? (eibach's, as mentioned above?)
like others have said...start with teh sway bar, then stiffer springs and shocks. if your not looking for a lowered stance then something like eibachs are perfect because they dont lower the car much.
pardon the double post, everyone, but should i buy these?
1. where are some reputable places i can purchase these parts? (http://www.whiteline.com.au)??
2. i was planning on taking the parts to a local mechanic to have them installed for me...is that wise, or are there some sort of specialty shops that i should take it to instead
2. Regular mechs are fine, as long as their reputable and won't damage anything and put the cost to you. The sway bar mount can sometimes be stuck and hard to put back on and there have been stories of it getting damaged.
There are DIY threads, if you're okay with doing basic auto work, just socket set and jack stands, you could probably do it yourself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darchrow Enigma
pardon the double post, everyone, but should i buy these?
It's an okay deal. With shipping at ~$40 that will make it ~$225. That's cheaper than most places retail without shipping costs.
Couldn't hurt to shoot him an offer to try to get the total cost down a bit.
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