3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hello,
Preface
MY AC was working fine. cooling and all that
Starting my car from the parking lot.. makes a loud squealing noise and dies.
I look under and the AC Belt is smoking. SO Take the belt off ,alternator is okay but the AC Compressor clutch will not spin --at all ..Oddly enough the center piece (which connects to the compressor spins fine).Seems like my compressor is ok but the clutch is out.Drove home without the alternator...
Can i buy a belt to just run the Alternator? Getting my AC fixed is not a priority but being mobile is .
Im thinking just drop a used compressor in there,evac it from a shop? and recharge from cans....Is this doable without power tools??Do I need a new O-ring set?
IF, if the belt can make a striaght shot from the alt to the balancer drive pulley you stand a chance of by-passing the A/C. Take that burned up belt and string it between the drive pulley and the driven pulley. If it doesn't hit anything, cut the OLD belt to fit w/the alt adjuster near the middle of its travel. Take the belt you just cut to fit to the parts store and size it up.
If, you can't get a straight shot, you need a compressor! Sounds like you have the concept down for compressor replacement, the problem is getting all the moisture out of used compressor so the system will last longer than a weekend. You need to pull it down to 29+++Hg for at least 4 hours or more.
Lets cross that road if the belt is a no go. . .
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
Thanks for the ideas .I need to find a spot where the belt doesnt rub the compressor pulley ,or minimally rubs it.Maybe I will duct tape it to reduce friction.
The parts guy on the phone said they have things that you put over the pulley to bypass it but couldnt find one for my toyota.
I saw some used compressors on craigslist(and Im fine with taking that riskk) ..but is there anything that would tell me if a compressor is shot when it is off the vehicle.Im guessing clutch rotate freely and and the center piece... but anything else?
keba
If it is a 4 cyl, Toyota has a belt for those vehicles that came with out air. The part number is 909160235683 our cost on it is $18.11 for the 4 cyl., and the V6 version of the A/C delete belt is part number 993668095083 and it $19.36. If your interested we have the 4 cyl in stock and the V6 is a day a way. Or your local parts store should be able to cross that number.
Hope this helps.
- Gary
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22 Year Toyota Parts Counterperson www.ToyotaPartsBarn.com
2011 Rav4
2006 Highlander
well bummer.. it still rubs against the compressor pulley.....I have some duct tape and a section of the old belt taped against the pulley to reduce the friction and am running the belt loose....
is it safe to let r134 escape out of the low pressure port?
Maybe a bearing is cheaper. Find a reputable AC shop in your area and go from there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by keba
well bummer.. it still rubs against the compressor pulley.....I have some duct tape and a section of the old belt taped against the pulley to reduce the friction and am running the belt loose....
is it safe to let r134 escape out of the low pressure port?
If the clutch hung why would the belt burn (should simply engauge the compressor)? Then again, why did two things fail at once? Unless the clutch failure locked the input shaft to the housing?????
Does the center core of the compressor turn? If so, replace the clutch.
USED PARTS:
Clutch turns freely, apply pressure like the belt does and rotate. Is it smooth? Slow continuess pressure and a spin.
Look into the ports; if you see grey matter, something let go. Take some Q-tips with you. Dig in there, it should be clean and have nothing in it but oil. If you block the outlet port and trun the input shaft, it should build pressure.
As for dumping the 134, that's a no - no.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
As far as the situation with the compressor and clutch are concerned .
The Pulley is completely seized-up. I have tugged much in either direction. Grooves are clean but blackened.Also seems like it is cocked in one edge (looking downwards)
If the profile of a regular pulley looks like this |-[)))] Mine looks like this \-[)))] ..Highly exaggerated…..probably 2 mm more on one end than the other.
The central rotor bit inside the pulley turns… Not freely as if on bearings ,but with resistance …Not close to spinning freely.
When Im buying a compressor I will check for pulley spinning freely and pressure on centre piece rotation.
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