DIY: 1MZ V6 P/S (power steering) pump rebuild

[Nervous]

As a preventive measure and a part of "Wagon 95" project I just have rebuild the steering pump. Here is a pictorial of the process. Nothing complicated, I've done it in a couple of hours total.


































Disassembly stage is over. Next is the assembly.

[Nervous]

Replacing O-rings










New front seal:







Assembly. I applied a thin layer of new ATF to internal surfaces before the assembly.

















Note: torque for the pulley's bolt is 32 ft-lbs.


Done.

[projektvertx]

Mmm nice pictorial How much did the rebuild kit cost you?

[Nervous]

$24 at partznet.com

[projektvertx]

Originally Posted by Nervous

$24 at partznet.com

Not bad at all! And a damn good learning experience too. I vote for sticky.

[Nervous]

Actually, aftermarket is even cheaper at rockauto.com, so, definitely worth of doing this rather than buying another reman pump. I wouldn't mess with rack & pinion rebuild thou, looks like much more difficult process.

[73sport]

God job. I would recomend that you check the clearances while the pump is apart and inpsect it for damage.

**When installing the vanes on to the rotor make certain they go back in the way they came out! **

The worn ege needs to go the outside and the direction is important too, as these are cut and worn at an angle. Its very slight, but if put in 180degrees out, they'll need to wear in and reseat themselves to be effective. This will make lots of metal shavings and noise!

I'm sure you can get away with dropping the vanes in any slot in the rotor but end to end and top to bottom matters!!!

The orientation of the rotor vanes is very critical to pump operation.

Its hard to tell from this picture but vanes rounded edge should be near the core of the rotor while the flat edges go to outside. As said above, even though they point outward (square edge) they still need to be orientated correctly direction wise. If you can't see the angle direction on the edge, lay the vanes out flat in a row. Now flip them all over so the shiny worn side is up.
** Because the rotor is a driven device, the shinnier side should be placed into the rotor such that the direction of rotation contacts the shinnier side of the vane. **

Q? Is is possible to put the rotor on backwards. Be careful of this also!

[Nervous]

Thanks, randy! I noticed the worn edges and tried to install everything back the same way as it was before, so hopefully I'm good to go. But your comment is very valuable for people who are going to rebuild their pumps!

[Eye8Pussies]

definitely great info to be aware of, and definitely sticky worthy

[73sport]

Do you by chance have this picture in a higher resolultion then 640X480?

http://images17.fotki.com/v524/photo...MG_5827-vi.jpg

[Nervous]

[juxtapose]

Excellent write up, except 11 of the pictures are not loading. Are these pictures available elsewhere?

With the help of my brother and toyotanation, I have the pump out of my 3.0 and am waiting for a Gates seal kit from Rockauto.com. It was on back order at $19.06 plus ~$3 shipping.

[lenore]

According to the instructions I have (factory manual) and the way the vanes were originally the rounded ends go to the outside....Now I wonder? Mine had 187k miles on it.

[JELEF]

The power steering pump on my 95 Avalon (134k) seized up. I'm trying to decide if I should rebuild it (if it can be rebuilt even) or buy a reman pump. Can anyone offer advice or guidance?

As the replacement pump's come without a pulley I'm wondering if the pulley's salvageable or better left disused. It's got rubber bits of the belt melted to and rotates about 300° before encountering considerable resistance. The back bit of the pump which houses the disc with the veins has got loads of metalic 'muck' inside.

I'm not sure if the photos presented here were after the parts have been cleaned, but mine are considerably more soiled than those photoed.

If the pulley's experience rotational resistance is it an indicator that the pump itself has been damaged beyond repair?

The power steering fluid had been leaking slowly (about 3 weeks after a top-up before the PS would give out) and I'd been driving without it as it was only a minor nuisance to me. I hadn't realised it could cause the pump to seize (should've disconnected the belt in hindsight).

I can take photos if it would be helpful.

[dorifuto.boi]

this is awesome thanks. i bought the oem gasket kit and i need to do it this winter break.

also, can u show me this ?
which bolt do you loosen so you can swing the pump down to get the belt off ?
also, how do u tension the PS belt with the correct tension ? just push on the pump as hard as u can then tighten that bolt ?