Passenger Driveaxle - NAPA spoiler

[bobnorth]

My earlier post referenced a suspected reman driveaxle problem purchased at NAPA. I showed the guy at the counter the difference between the reman and the original, he grimaced and muttered "nearly every one of these remans has a problem." Luckily, they stocked a new axle. It fit snug, seated properly, and seems just fine after test runs. The reman's specs were visually off by an inch (bearing distance to inner end)...I say beware and save yourself half a day...don't get one.
The passenger driveaxle on a '95 Camry 4 cyl wasn't too tough to get out - being a first-timer the biggest problem was the lower control arm. The Youtube vids on similar replacements are way too simple -- you easily get held up by shitty little things like dealing with poor access to the passenger side differential area because of the catalytic converter in the way. If you're replacing the oil seal before the axle going in make sure you have an oversized socket to tap in the seal - what a hassle (real small quarters). I figure a 1 7/8" socket would be the right one. I'd also suggest a tie rod seperater instead of a pickle fork cause the tie rod boot will get damaged. The rented torque wrench ended up not clicking when it was supposed to so I had to get all bolts as tight as I could without breaking them off. But the new axle fit tight, in fact there's no lateral play at all when gripping the shaft (compared to the driver's side)...hope that's right. Otherwise it drives fine, no strange sounds, but I do think I'll need an alignment since it pulls a little. BTW, the NAPA guy said he thinks the new axles come from China.

[LynchburgCSI]

"If you want OEM quality, buy OEM."

[JohnGD]

I either re-boot the existing OEM axles or I get new aftermarket ones. NAPA MaxDrive is the name, also sold as Cardone Select and Autozone's own brand too (Duralast?).

And of course, there is always the dealer, either locally or online ($-saving). If you can find out who rebuild their axles. I mean, A1 Cardone is a very large builder and not for nothin' either.

Originally Posted by bobnorth

My earlier post referenced a suspected reman driveaxle problem purchased at NAPA. I showed the guy at the counter the difference between the reman and the original, he grimaced and muttered "nearly every one of these remans has a problem." Luckily, they stocked a new axle. It fit snug, seated properly, and seems just fine after test runs. The reman's specs were visually off by an inch (bearing distance to inner end)...I say beware and save yourself half a day...don't get one.
The passenger driveaxle on a '95 Camry 4 cyl wasn't too tough to get out - being a first-timer the biggest problem was the lower control arm. The Youtube vids on similar replacements are way too simple -- you easily get held up by shitty little things like dealing with poor access to the passenger side differential area because of the catalytic converter in the way. If you're replacing the oil seal before the axle going in make sure you have an oversized socket to tap in the seal - what a hassle (real small quarters). I figure a 1 7/8" socket would be the right one. I'd also suggest a tie rod seperater instead of a pickle fork cause the tie rod boot will get damaged. The rented torque wrench ended up not clicking when it was supposed to so I had to get all bolts as tight as I could without breaking them off. But the new axle fit tight, in fact there's no lateral play at all when gripping the shaft (compared to the driver's side)...hope that's right. Otherwise it drives fine, no strange sounds, but I do think I'll need an alignment since it pulls a little. BTW, the NAPA guy said he thinks the new axles come from China.

[Pechaf]

really?
popular Judas Priest singer

[73sport]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

I either re-boot the existing OEM axles or I get new aftermarket ones. .

Very True!! Toyo makes good Parts! And I'd do the same especially on lower mile cars.

Just do the fresh boots before the axle has thrown all its grease out! Obviously axles that click in the parking lot turns need to be tossed but must will run a long time if you keep the grease in them.

[500KCamry]

Originally Posted by bobnorth

I'd also suggest a tie rod seperater instead of a pickle fork cause the tie rod boot will get damaged. The rented torque wrench ended up not clicking when it was supposed to so I had to get all bolts as tight as I could without breaking them off. But the new axle fit tight, in fact there's no lateral play at all when gripping the shaft (compared to the driver's side)...hope that's right. Otherwise it drives fine, no strange sounds, but I do think I'll need an alignment since it pulls a little. BTW, the NAPA guy said he thinks the new axles come from China.

If you separate the ball joint from the lower control arm, you don't need to mess with the tie rod at all.

[73sport]

<<PARTIAL THREAD JACK>>
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnorth
I'd also suggest a tie rod seperater instead of a pickle fork cause the tie rod boot will get damaged.

Originally Posted by 500KCamry

If you separate the ball joint from the lower control arm, you don't need to mess with the tie rod at all.

But its a whole lot easier if the whole assembly swings out of the way, so IMO its worthwhile to pop the joint free.
* NEVER use a pickle fork! It damages the boot and the joint will fail! *

- You don't need a pickle fork IF you can swing a hammer! DON'T JUMP AHEAD HERE! READ!

The tie rod end ball joint is a tapered interferance fit joint. If you distort the taper for just a moment, the ball stud will fall out.* With a 16oz hammer or heavier hammer, take a swing at the casting. . .

- rotate assembly to get tie-rod exposed.
- Loosen tie-rod nut leaving a few threads holding the nut on.
- With your hammer take some practice swings aiming at the casting holding the ball joint. By Striking the casting (not the stud or the tie rod end) it will distort the housing and drop the stud free.
- Strike the housing briskly aiming between the nut and joint. A swift crack is needed.
- Lift the ball joint/tie rod up after a couple of hits (when free). Yes, it leaves a flat spot on the casting, but it doesn't destroy the boot or take a custom puller.

Hammer: just figure that your hammer should weigh twice as much as what your hitting to be effective. Just don't mis and make sure your knuckles clear everything! Part of why you leave the nut on is to protect the threads!
-

[BMR]

Originally Posted by 73sport

<<PARTIAL THREAD JACK>>
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnorth
I'd also suggest a tie rod seperater instead of a pickle fork cause the tie rod boot will get damaged.



But its a whole lot easier if the whole assembly swings out of the way, so IMO its worthwhile to pop the joint free.
* NEVER use a pickle fork! It damages the boot and the joint will fail! *

- You don't need a pickle fork IF you can swing a hammer! DON'T JUMP AHEAD HERE! READ!

The tie rod end ball joint is a tapered interferance fit joint. If you distort the taper for just a moment, the ball stud will fall out.* With a 16oz hammer or heavier hammer, take a swing at the casting. . .

- rotate assembly to get tie-rod exposed.
- Loosen tie-rod nut leaving a few threads holding the nut on.
- With your hammer take some practice swings aiming at the casting holding the ball joint. By Striking the casting (not the stud or the tie rod end) it will distort the housing and drop the stud free.
- Strike the housing briskly aiming between the nut and joint. A swift crack is needed.
- Lift the ball joint/tie rod up after a couple of hits (when free). Yes, it leaves a flat spot on the casting, but it doesn't destroy the boot or take a custom puller.

Hammer: just figure that your hammer should weigh twice as much as what your hitting to be effective. Just don't mis and make sure your knuckles clear everything! Part of why you leave the nut on is to protect the threads!
-

I couldn't agree more! And here's a pic from my front wheel bearing DIY thread showing what you're describing. Gotta remove the tie rod nut first, of course!

[73sport]

Originally Posted by BMR

I couldn't agree more! And here's a pic from my front wheel bearing DIY thread showing what you're describing. Gotta remove the tie rod nut first, of course!

^^ nice timing. . . . good pic too!