3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Ouch. Looks like hose reinforcement failure. Or maybe there is internal electro-chemical damage.
With the existing coolant still in there and the engine cold. I'd do a voltage test on the cooling system. Put the negative probe of a voltmeter to the negative post of the battery; dip the positive probe into the coolant in the radiator (don't touch other metal). If you have > 0.3v the problem may be electro-chemical degradation.
How's the pressure in the system? Rad cap in good shape? Thermostat working? How long has this hose been on there?
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
I've already ordered both a new upper and lower radiator hose from the dealer... but do any of you know how this can even happen?
Ouch. Looks like hose reinforcement failure. Or maybe there is internal electro-chemical damage.
With the existing coolant still in there and the engine cold. I'd do a voltage test on the cooling system. Put the negative probe of a voltmeter to the negative post of the battery; dip the positive probe into the coolant in the radiator (don't touch other metal). If you have > 0.3v the problem may be electro-chemical degradation.
How's the pressure in the system? Rad cap in good shape? Thermostat working? How long has this hose been on there?
All of the cooling system hoses are original. Maybe they're just old? I had a lot of overheating issues from 2005-2009.
Pressure is good. Radiator cap is fine. Thermostat is fine. Everything was pretty much replaced (except the hoses) within the last 8 months.
All overheating issues were resolved, and necessary parts replaced. Although I had no idea the hoses had any sort of reinforcement in the rubber that could fail.
__________________
2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
Ive seen something similar when there was oil in the coolant. Someone accidentally poured some oil or something like that into their coolant and all the rubber swelled up.
Check the inside of the hose for any oily slime.
But with that many miles on the hoses its probably just normal. Their probably worn through.
If you're going to drain the coolant have you considered changing out all other hoses as well? Heater core hoses, bypass hoses, IAC coolant hoses? Check to make sure you can get to the clamps first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
All of the cooling system hoses are original. Maybe they're just old? I had a lot of overheating issues from 2005-2009.
Pressure is good. Radiator cap is fine. Thermostat is fine. Everything was pretty much replaced (except the hoses) within the last 8 months.
All overheating issues were resolved, and necessary parts replaced. Although I had no idea the hoses had any sort of reinforcement in the rubber that could fail.
If you're going to drain the coolant have you considered changing out all other hoses as well? Heater core hoses, bypass hoses, IAC coolant hoses? Check to make sure you can get to the clamps first.
I already ordered one water bypass hose along with the two radiator hoses because it was really cheap. Looks like there are two others, and another two that go to the IAC.
I did consider replacing the IAC hoses before.
The two heater hoses appear to be fairly pricey from the dealer. For this kind of stuff, does it make much of a difference if I get them from an auto parts store? Looks like one at the auto store is $10, or $40 from the dealer.
__________________
2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
You can order them from your local parts store. I'd go to your local NAPA because their top line is Gates belts and hoses. I really don't care for the typical parts stores' blue light special belts and hoses. IMO they're just not as good as Gates.
(IAC I suppose) Gates 28408 (Standard 5/16" heater hose), about $0.41/ft in 50ft coil , order by the foot at NAPA (higher $):
Cut to Length; Throttle Body To Pipe-1
Cut to Length; Intake Manifold To Throttle Body
I already ordered one water bypass hose along with the two radiator hoses because it was really cheap. Looks like there are two others, and another two that go to the IAC.
I did consider replacing the IAC hoses before.
The two heater hoses appear to be fairly pricey from the dealer. For this kind of stuff, does it make much of a difference if I get them from an auto parts store? Looks like one at the auto store is $10, or $40 from the dealer.
Think of coolant hoses as really being a strong fiber mesh, with the rubber serving only to keep the fluid from seeping through the mesh. Once the fibers break, the hose will balloon and quickly fail.
A good hose will be made with aramid fibers e.g. Kevlar covered with EPDM rubber. A cheap hose will use polyester fibers and a lower cost rubber.
Think of coolant hoses as really being a strong fiber mesh, with the rubber serving only to keep the fluid from seeping through the mesh. Once the fibers break, the hose will balloon and quickly fail.
A good hose will be made with aramid fibers e.g. Kevlar covered with EPDM rubber. A cheap hose will use polyester fibers and a lower cost rubber.
Great explanation. =)
Every cooling system related hose I have in there right now is original, and the one that is failing lasted 353,000 miles/10 years. So I will assume that OEM quality for these hoses is pretty darn good.
The two radiator hoses already came in, along with one water bypass hose. I'm waiting on four more, and then I will drain the coolant and replace them all. I guess I'll remove the throttle body at the same time, clean it, and replace those two gaskets.
__________________
2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
Replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses today. Along with a water bypass hose... and one of the two water bypass hoses for the IAC valve. I didn't want to remove the second one, because I would have had a hell of a time trying to attach the new to whatever it connected to below the coil packs. There were another two water bypass hoses that I ordered, but I couldn't even find where mine were located...
In the diagram below, the green ones are three of the four I replaced. The red ones I could not locate. Any idea where those are?
__________________
2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
I don't think the Gen4's have the oil cooler, mine doesn't. Maybe that's partially why the engines started having sludge problems? Those hoses are the right size and shape that I see on my 1993. What year is that diagram supposed to be for?
Actually, that big metal tube that a lot of these hoses attach to comes in two versions, one with oil cooler and one without. So I think those two hoses are only applicable for the one with the oil cooler. In which case, I don't have them.
Quote:
What year is that diagram supposed to be for?
2000.
__________________
2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.