3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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So I just spent about 500 on getting the evaporator all pulled out and replaced, along with a cracked connection pipe (sounds familar, wait...I did this less than 2 fucking years ago
well, whatever I have to do so be it. Well now the compressor wont engage, everytime I turn on the A/C it comes on for 1 second and starts blinking.
I do believe that there is 1 suspect wire that connects the alternator to the compressor. It was tied together, but then today it just snapped in 2. I been cutting and stripping so much from it trying to get it to fit on the damn butt but it still wasn't tight enough.
So now Im going to try tying it back together like it was before and hopefully it should keep running. I just dont see how the mechs were able to charge up the system with it acting like that. If anything, may have to put a new wire in or something, this is ridiculous. They were telling me to replace the compressor, That compressor is barely 2 years old re-built, Im not fucking replacing shit
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Last edited by 96ToyoCam164K; 05-27-2010 at 09:35 PM.
Reason: had to curse...
Why would a compressor need anything directly from the alternator? It's a mechanical device basically, with a magnetic clutch and rpm sensor wire.
I hope some mechanic didn't rig the thing to run at all times. That'll damage a few things!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96ToyoCam164K
So I just spent about 500 on getting the evaporator all pulled out and replaced, along with a cracked connection pipe (sounds familar, wait...I did this less than 2 fucking years ago
well, whatever I have to do so be it. Well now the compressor wont engage, everytime I turn on the A/C it comes on for 1 second and starts blinking.
I do believe that there is 1 suspect wire that connects the alternator to the compressor. It was tied together, but then today it just snapped in 2. I been cutting and stripping so much from it trying to get it to fit on the damn butt but it still wasn't tight enough.
So now Im going to try tying it back together like it was before and hopefully it should keep running. I just dont see how the mechs were able to charge up the system with it acting like that. If anything, may have to put a new wire in or something, this is ridiculous. They were telling me to replace the compressor, That compressor is barely 2 years old re-built, Im not fucking replacing shit
Why would a compressor need anything directly from the alternator? It's a mechanical device basically, with a magnetic clutch and rpm sensor wire.
I hope some mechanic didn't rig the thing to run at all times. That'll damage a few things!
Because there is 2 power cables that connect from the clutch area to the alternator. Im able to unplug both of them. One was rubbed to death by the pulley, but I taped that together and haven't had problems since.
The problem one was tied and duct taped, I removed the duct tape and then tugged on it just a bit and it ripped in 2.
Its definently the wire. There seems to be no circuit running through to it.
I thought the mag clutch should be controlled by the AC controller (called the AC Amplifier). Which means one clutch wire should be getting 12+ through a relay that is turned on/off by the controller. And the relay ground should be the engine block. That's why I'm not sure why anything needs to go to the alternator. Unless it's an improvised way to "ground" the mag clutch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96ToyoCam164K
Because there is 2 power cables that connect from the clutch area to the alternator. Im able to unplug both of them. One was rubbed to death by the pulley, but I taped that together and haven't had problems since.
The problem one was tied and duct taped, I removed the duct tape and then tugged on it just a bit and it ripped in 2.
Its definently the wire. There seems to be no circuit running through to it.
Sorry to leave this thread hanging (which usually means all was well)...
After this happened, I drove the car for a good 300 miles with the A/C off. I then took to other mechanic and he said compressor was fine. I've been driving with the A/C on now all month.
Just recently though, I turned on the A/C after a 1,000+ mile road trip. Worked great the entire time. But this morning after the roadtrip, it was making some noise, and was making a slight squealing noise indication the belt was slipping.
The sound went away, but the compressor seems a bit sluggish for some reason. The noise is faint, but there's always some noise with the A/C on. Clutch is spinning.
Im concerned with the wire. It was cut down to like 3 inches long and orginally it must have been 8-10 inches. I tied the wires together, but I been reading if the cluch isn't getting enough voltage, the bearings heat up to 1,200 degrees and screws everything else.
Question, should I buy extra wire and reconnect it to its original length? Or does the clutch sound like its going out? Why is the sluggishness intermittent?
ok, now the A/C is gone. Light is blinking when compressor clutch engages. Im thinking its the relay gone bad...what do you think?
Ok, I need help. How do I find out which relay fuse controls the clutch on my compressor? I called the dealership and apparently they said its 3 different relays.
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Last edited by 96ToyoCam164K; 06-22-2010 at 06:35 PM.
Are you sure the clutch bearing isn't bad? I know you got this as a rebuilt...but most of the time...they don't replace the bearing. Was it making any other noises? Have you taken the belt off and rotated the clutch to see if there are any symptoms of a bad bearing?
Well...what happened is weird, I was driving for 6 or 7 hours with the A/C on and off intermittently. Then the next day I started the car the clutch started making noises, but it still got cold. The noises would come and go. Its been going on the past week, and today in went clunk.
Today, it magically stayed on for about 15 seconds...but it sounded awful. It was squeaking off and on very quickly and then the light started blinking again.
So I should just get someone to change the bearing? Is that expensive?
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Last edited by 96ToyoCam164K; 06-22-2010 at 08:23 PM.
Well...most mechanics will not change the bearing...they'll just replace the clutch or the compressor since it will make them the most money. You should be able to do it if yer willing to put the time and effort in it.
First you'll need to verify that it's the bearing that's bad. A simple hand spin test should work...once you git the belt off.
Second...you'll need to git the particulars on yer clutch and then order the bearing. Other places charge about $100 or so fer that bearing...that's why I posted the cheap place fer the bearing.
Third...you'll need the tools and time to git the bearing in and out. If you git the clutch off...then you can probably take it to a machine shop to press the new bearing in.
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
Did you read the AC thread I linked and the associated links within that thread? Give it a read...
Not sure if you have the 4 or 6 cylinder engine.
Yes, I read the entire articles. It a 4 cylinder. I'm just not sure because again I turned it on, and the compressor sounds like its wanting to seize up because when I press the A/C button, it'll make the belt squeal, and the car just starts shaking.
Ugh...I was not wanting to drive 15 hours in 100 degree heat all the way back home I'm just going to take it in and see what someone says about it, cause I really think its the relay tricking the system and trying to freeze the clutch. I had this same issue few weeks ago with the light blinking, and the mechanic was saying I needed a new compressor.
I dont know what they did, but they stopped the light from blinking...and had the relay box open so it has to be something with that. I also dont think its the clutch either because the A/C was cooling very well just yesterday.
If the clutch completely engages it sounds like the compressor is making the noise.
W/out removing anything you can spin the compressor center by hand, as it compresses it will turn harder but it should be smooth. It would also be wise to remove the belt and see how that beraing feels but the words you've said here makes the compressor sound guilty.
To check for pulley slip when engauged you can place tape or chock marks on the pulley and pump and use an automotive timing light connected to any ignition wire/spark plug and strobe the compressor hub. While engauged, they should remain syncronised.
You can also use a long wooden dowel or long screwdiver touching it to the compressor and your ear to hear whats going on inside. Do it with the compressor on and off. You'll hear the bearing if its bad. Listen to alternator too so you get a feel for how belts and bearing sound.
They will make noise - {like a "whirrrrrrrrrrrr"} but gravel like sounds indicate problems.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
whatever, just f*** it...I went to one place and they just wanted me to change the compressor, stating it would cost more to switch out the clutch/bearings.
Guess I'll just drive back hot and hope I dont pass out in the Texas desert...
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Last edited by TrailDust; 07-10-2010 at 08:16 PM.
Reason: Language
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I'm just going to take it in and see what someone says about it, cause I really think its the relay tricking the system and trying to freeze the clutch. I had this same issue few weeks ago with the light blinking, and the mechanic was saying I needed a new compressor. 
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