DIY: Replacing a 5SFE knock sensor - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 05-27-2010, 10:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation DIY: Replacing a 5SFE knock sensor

So I had the P0325 code (knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction) and after searching this forum, I noticed a lot of other people had questions about how to change it and no one really ever answered it. Since I’m doing it I figured I’d take the extra five minutes to take pics and write this. I got my new sensor from Advance for $130. Toyota wanted $180 plus tax but couldn’t have it shipped to them until Wednesday and I needed it now.

Tools Required:
· Socket wrench
· Short extension
· 27 mm deep socket (you can not fit a crescent wrench in there, I tried. Go buy the socket.)
· Safety glasses (it’s cruddy under there and you’re looking up and I hate shit falling in my eyes)
· Gloves (optional)
· Light
· Pliers will help with the removal of the connector if it’s being stubborn


Time Required: 20 minutes
1) Jack the car up and put it on jack stands and chock the rear wheels. Use ramps if you want, but last time I used those I burned the crap out of my clutch and would rather not do that again. Shake the car once it’s on the jack stands to make sure it’s on securely. You would rather have it fall when you’re NOT under it…just sayin’.


2) Lay some carpet or something down on the ground especially if you’ve got a gravel or dirt driveway. I used some old linoleum my dad was throwing out. It’s not that comfy, but better than rocks poking you.
3) Crawl under the car, pretty far at that. Your face should be just past the flex pipe to be able to see. Locate the sensor by looking at the backside of the engine, on the right side of the exhaust pipe and above the axle, right below the intake manifold. You’ll see it like this:


4) Some of you bigger guys might need to make some extra room for yourself by letting the exhaust hang/push it to the side and removing this black support bar. I’m skinny and somewhat of a contortionist and so this was not necessary for me.
5) Reach your arm up there and unclip the connector. If you can’t pinch the clip down (it’s either stuck or your hand’s too big), use your hand dandy needle nose pliers to help you out.




6) Put the socket and extension on your ratchet and get it situated on the sensor. It’s a weird angle and seems to angle almost up, so you have to kinda play with it a bit to get it on there.


7) Use all your might and bust that sucker loose. Mine was loose from the get go, so I tightened it hoping that’s why I was throwing a code, but of course I was wrong. So now after tightening and torquing it, I had to take it off. These things get pretty tight. I remember during my swap I had to use a 4 foot lead pipe to get enough leverage to get this off the old block…that’s how tight it was.


8) Compare your old sensor to your new sensor. You can test the old one if you have an oscilloscope…but most of us don’t. The service manual says you can test for continuity but this is wrong. If they’re both the same, you’re in business. If not, you’ve got a problem.


9) Hand start the sensor into the block. Once it’s in correctly and not stripping threads, tighten it down. Torque it to 32 ft/lbs.
10) Reconnect the connector. If you removed anything else to get to it, put it back on.
11) Disconnect the battery to clear the P0325 code and reconnect it. Start the car. You should notice there is no longer a check engine light! Drive it around the block. If it doesn’t come back on, you did well. If it DOES come back, you’ve got a bigger problem.

Also, if you screw up something or hurt yourself…that’s your fault. Neither myself nor TN are responsible for any injury, damage, or even death caused by this DIY.

EDIT: A year later I finally got rid of my PO325 code. Some points to note:
1) Use ONLY Toyota knock sensor. Denso is the brand they use, and can be bought at Carquest or Worldpac. Do not get Advance, AutoZone, OReilly or any other brand. Denso only.
2) You can also reach the sensor from the top, if you're skinny. You have to put your left arm behind the AC lines against the firewall, behind the intake and under to feel it. Again, you MUST be skinny.
3) These are basically microphones and CAN BLOW. If you blow your engine, or have a knocking engine, expect to replace this guy. That's what blew mine...

Last edited by Chris Crash; 06-02-2011 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 05-27-2010, 10:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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nice DIY!

vote for a sticky!

btw, i like the disclaimer at the bottom
do you mind if i copy an paste it to my fuel rail & injectors DIY?
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'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU

Last edited by fenixus; 05-27-2010 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 05-27-2010, 11:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Chris Crash, other than the CEL, did you experience any symptoms?

Have you noticed a difference after replacing the sensor?
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Old 05-27-2010, 11:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Horrible gas mileage and crappy performance.

Having a bad knock sensor puts the car in fail safe mode, so timing is retarded and fuel is constantly rich. I think it's the same as when you first start the car cold.
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Old 05-28-2010, 02:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So after driving it today, the code came back on almost instantly as I got down the street. I visited my old shop teacher and we used a scan tool and determined the problem is the wiring.

So at least I can return the new knock sensor and get my $140 back! Now starts the tedious task of tracing the wire...finding where it's split.
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Old 05-28-2010, 03:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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sorry to hear it bro ... tracking bad wires sucks, i'm following similar path recently (erratic EGR system) ...
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'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 05-28-2010, 03:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah. The worst part is I know I screwed up the wire during my swap. Must have gotten clipped somewhere along the line.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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UPDATE:

After three mechanics, and $800, it's finally fixed. The entire wire had been chewed by a rat. And the Dorman Knock sensor advance sold me DOES NOT work in these cars.

Napa knock sensors don't work either.

ONLY TOYOTA KNOCK SENSORS WILL WORK

After throwing out the receipt and box for the knock sensor from Advance, I'm off to try to return it and get my $140 back since it doesn't work..
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Old 06-18-2010, 02:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Crash View Post
UPDATE:

After three mechanics, and $800, it's finally fixed. The entire wire had been chewed by a rat. And the Dorman Knock sensor advance sold me DOES NOT work in these cars.

Napa knock sensors don't work either.

ONLY TOYOTA KNOCK SENSORS WILL WORK

After throwing out the receipt and box for the knock sensor from Advance, I'm off to try to return it and get my $140 back since it doesn't work..
geeez, $800 !!???
omfg ...
glad you got it fixed finally, though that price (even for 2 OEM sensors and wire repair) sounds horrible ... at least you've got it done finally

try returning that shitty AAP sensor to them without receipt. they may still give you a gift card for the value (up to manager). i'm paranoid about keeping receipts for everything i might need to return in future, have a special box for them.
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'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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JUST KIDDING.

CEL came back on.

There's apparently some switch inside the ECU that converts the RF to an electrical current that's bad. So I'm getting a new one and the shop says I don't have to pay for it.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So I finally got my replacement ECU in the mail the other day. Holy crap, tracking this down took forever.

But of course now the car has the transmission out...so it doesn't really help me right now.
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Old 10-11-2010, 03:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Just an update, this code is STILL there. After a new wire, new sensor, new connector, new shield, and a different ECU...the code is still there.

I have no idea at all what it could be. But the engines coming out so I can mess with it again then.
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Old 10-11-2010, 03:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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gez sorry to hear man ... hard to think of any other reasons for this knock sensor code ...
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'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Maybe I just have a knock! haha. I'm debating just wiring in a resistor so that the computer sees whatever voltage it wants and thusly, CEL is gone!
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ATS Racing sells the knock sensor for $70...
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