DIY camry 2.2L i4 engine 5S-FE compression test - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 06-02-2010, 10:53 AM
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4th Generation DIY camry 2.2L i4 engine 5S-FE compression test

This DIY steps are based on thread that no longer exists on TN forums (was started by pgmomni who is no longer a member of TN). Thanks to TrailDust who restored it from archives I compiled this information on compression testing the 5s-fe engine.

Original posters who contributed (chronological order of original thread) were: pgmomni, Nervous, Chris Crash, 93celicaconv, fenixus, hill8570, 73sport, JohnGD, Stillrunning.

For now there is no pictures in it, but instructions are pretty straight forward including all the member comments on crucial issues.

1. Tools required:

a)
tools for removing the spark plugs which may include 3/8'' ratchet, a spark plug socket and extension.
Torque spec for spark plugs re-installation is 13ft-lbs

b)
Compression tester/gauge with M14 fitting
Get a quality compression tester. Autozone loaner gauge i tried (Actron or OEM p/n 27138) may give you a false reading, because of the loose rubber hose at spark plug fitting, so you won't be able to secure it in a plug hole (learned that the hard way).
Good idea is to get a nice compression test set (not the cheapest one) from Harbor Freight Tools, like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-c...ter-95187.html

2. Warm up the car to normal operating temperature
You should test compression on WARM engine, cold reading may be misleading. You are supposed to test all cylinders as quickly as you can (without destroying things LOL ), so you get a comparable results.
NOTE: if you have a front strut bar, unbolt it now for quick & easy access to spark plugs.
You will need 14mm socket or deep socket and a long ratchet (or a breaker bar). Torque for strut bar nuts re-installation is around ~50ft-lbs.

3. Shut down the engine, pop the hood

4. Remove 15A EFI fuse (based on gen4) from main engine relay/fuse box on passenger side of engine bay
Removing this fuse disables the whole EFI circuit meaning when you turn ignition it will crank, but will NOT activate the igniters (no power) nor the fuel injectors (fuel pump has no power).

Sample picture 1 (gen4):

NOTE: The EFI fuse/relay diagram in above pic is based on 2000 Camry Solara SE 2.2L 5S-FE California specs (similar to gen4.5 Camry 2.2L) - mentioned EFI 15A fuse (it was a small ATM size blue color 15A mark) spot was circled in RED.

Sample pictures 2 & 3 (gen3):

NOTE: The box circled in BLACK is what contains the EFI 15A fuse.


NOTE: The EFI fuse/relay diagram in above screen shot is based on 1995 Camry 2.2L 5S-FE California spec (Gen 3.5 Camry). Its the box circled in BLUE and marked in BLUE cross to highlight the fuse that you need to pull out.

5. Jam the throttle wide open with a large screw driver (just like when cleaning TB & IAC)
This is necessary to make sure there is enough air flow on cars with Cruise Control when depressing the gas pedal to floor may not always fully open the throttle plate.

Sample picture can be found here in this DIY thread:
How to: Cleaning Throttle Body -4 Cylinder Engines- With Pictures

6. Remove quickly ALL spark plug wires and spark plugs

7. Install compression gauge fitting into cylinder #1 - it doesn't have to be super tight finger tight is fine. Place the gauge on windshield so you can see the compression reading while cranking.

8. Go to cabin and crank the engine for 3-4 seconds (no longer than 5 seconds) - needle on gauge should jump up at least 4 times. other way of counting is listening to engine revolutions, it should be no more than 5-6 revs.
Another comment on this one was that you keep cranking until the needle max's out. Closed throttle will just take longer to max needle, but open throttle saves battery/starter.
write down the result.

9. Repeat #7 & #8 for the rest of cylinders.
Before you start removing the tester's fitting from spark plug hole, remember to release the pressure by holding the button on a side of a gauge!
Also the gauge I linked has good and solid (extra long so you can easily put gauge on windshield) rubber hose for easy (de)installation and quick disconnect fitting between gauge and rubber hose.

Now about the numbers
Per Toyota specs normal reading on all cylinders should stay withing 175psi or more (pounds/lbs per square inch)
The lowest number you can get (while car is still drivable) should be no less than 142psi.
There is no maximum.
There should also be no more than a 14psi difference between each cylinder.

If you notice one of cylinders with HIGHER compression than others that usually points to a carbon deposits build up in it (try sea foam treatment or switch to synthetic oil) and/or a worn cylinder or piston ring.

If you notice one of cylinders with LOWER compression than others that may point to a leaky/burnt valve above it (do a valve clearance check) or again worn piston ring.

if you notice one or two cylinders LOWER than the others, squirt some engine oil down the spark plug tube (with plug removed of course). Re-test. If the number comes up, you need new rings. If not, it's probably a stuck valve.

If you ran the test right and still notice unusually LOWER than normal compression on some or all cylinders it may point to a bad head gasket.

Basically, based on your results you need to figure out the baseline from which you judge whatever is higher than the "normal" rest or lower then the "normal" rest.

More info on compression results interpretation can be found here:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm

Hope it helps all people who has never done this test before and would like to perform it right and get a set of comparable results.

Any comments appreciated.

Disclaimer:
If you screw up something or hurt yourself…that’s your fault. Neither myself nor TN are responsible for any injury, damage, or even death caused by this DIY.


'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E@ 142k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E @ 92k

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle
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Last edited by fenixus; 06-06-2010 at 07:58 PM. Reason: more hints
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#2 Old 06-02-2010, 11:05 AM
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You rock Fenix!...Please add a disclaimer: The EFI Relay diagram in your pic is only for Gen4 Camry Solara. I opened up my Gen 3.5 Camry EFI Relay box and compared it to your picture in here.
Its different. Not only that I found at least 3 15A fuses !! ha ha..I will need to open up electrical diagram for Gen 3 camry..

1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles

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#3 Old 06-02-2010, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peshwa View Post
You rock Fenix!...Please add a disclaimer: The EFI Relay diagram in your pic is only for Gen4 Camry Solara. I opened up my Gen 3.5 Camry EFI Relay box and compared it to your picture in here.
Its different. Not only that I found at least 3 15A fuses !! ha ha..I will need to open up electrical diagram for Gen 3 camry..
thanks!

... and done

once you take/locate the pic of this EFI fuse on gen3 camry, please uplaod it to www.imageshack.us and send me a Direct Link to it. will post above for future reference.


'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E@ 142k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E @ 92k

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Last edited by fenixus; 06-02-2010 at 06:18 PM.
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#4 Old 06-02-2010, 11:31 AM
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nice.

simple description with easy to follow directions...

what Compression tester you use / where you get it?

this would be nice "project" for a nice morning or afternoon or just kill some time
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#5 Old 06-02-2010, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abew330 View Post
nice.

simple description with easy to follow directions...

what Compression tester you use / where you get it?

this would be nice "project" for a nice morning or afternoon or just kill some time

hehe, it will definitely keep you busy for a while

I used the compression tester from Harbor Freight Tools I linked in DIY. it comes with a handy plastic suitcase. very handy.


'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E@ 142k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E @ 92k

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle
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Last edited by fenixus; 06-02-2010 at 06:18 PM.
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#6 Old 06-02-2010, 04:22 PM
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Also, if you notice one or two cylinders LOWER than the others, squirt some engine oil down the spark plug tube (with plug removed of course). Re-test. If the number comes up, you need new rings. If not, it's probably a stuck valve.
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#7 Old 06-02-2010, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Crash View Post
Also, if you notice one or two cylinders LOWER than the others, squirt some engine oil down the spark plug tube (with plug removed of course). Re-test. If the number comes up, you need new rings. If not, it's probably a stuck valve.
right, forgot about this one. added it up. thanks!


'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E@ 142k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E @ 92k

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#8 Old 06-06-2010, 04:18 PM
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My DIY experience

Got a chance over the weekend to do compression test on my baby's 4 cylinders (5SFE). This is part of my investigation to determine whether I should put another 1000 dollars into my car..ha ha I also did a combustion leak check to figure if my head gasket is healthy. It sure is!!
Below statements hold true for a 1995 Camry 5SFE California-spec (Gen 3.5 Camry)
For this compression test I referred to be.pdf file on http://www.**********s.com/camry/.

The box circled in BLACK is what contains the EFI 15A fuse.
Before you start your test you have to remove the EFI 15A fuse. Thats going by the OP Fenixus's first post on this thread. I followed it to T and havent had any issues. I didnt try to avoid this recommendation so I dont know what would happen if it was not followed.

Its the box circled in BLUE and marked in BLUE cross to highlight the fuse that you need to pull out.
This is the compression tester I used from Harbor Freight Tools for USD 8.00. Pretty good.

Flex Drive Compression Tester

Item # 92697
http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-dr...ter-92697.html

One more point : Make sure you tighten up the flex hose of the gauge in the cylinder until it can not turn anymore. For cylinder 3 I did a lousy job tightening it and was rewarded with an erroneous reading that spooked me dead
The results for completely stock but often neglected 5SFE engine with 168K miles were
#1: 200 psi
#2: 195 psi
#3: 180 psi
#4: 182 psi


I did not perform a "wet" test and the engine was allowed to cool down.
Cylinder compression specs for 5SFE as specified by Toyota are:
Minimum: 142 psi
Normal: 178 psi
Difference between each consecutive cylinder:14 psi or less

I think my baby's good for now but I still plan to do the above test on a hot/warm engine and as fast as possible.
Thanks to Fenixus and all the members he has mentioned in his DIY.

1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles

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#9 Old 06-06-2010, 04:29 PM
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If you don't remove the EFI fuse, fuel will be injected and it will flood the engine.
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#10 Old 06-06-2010, 08:02 PM
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thanks peshwa. i went ahead and re-uploaded your pics to free anonymous www.imageshack.us as i know photobucket deletes them after some time while they last forever on imageshack.us
i hope you don't mind

i included your comments in original post.

from your results it seems you may have a little carbon deposits in cylinders 1 & 2 as they fall out of 14psi range IF 3 & 4 are the "normal" ones time for the sea foam treatment ?


'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E@ 142k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E @ 92k

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#11 Old 06-06-2010, 10:00 PM
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Cylinders 1 and 2 did look very dirty. I was tempted to pour seafoam directly into all the 4 cylinders...Can I do that? is it safe? I guess the head needs to come off clean the carbon deposits...any comments

1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles

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#12 Old 06-06-2010, 10:13 PM
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i wouldn't do that directly on cylinders. just follow their directions. one of them says about sucking 1/3 of can via brake booster port on intake manifold. i think that should be good enough, plus 1/3 poured in with fresh dino oil and another 1/3 in gas tank. that's the safest way (for up to 100 miles anyways, then change the oil & filter again).

hope it helps.


'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E@ 142k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E @ 92k

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#13 Old 06-06-2010, 10:29 PM
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Thanks Fenixus...I did use 1/3 seafoam through my brake booster line and 1/3 cleaned my throttle body. Remaining seafoam I put into a near empty fuel tank. Seafoaming did improve my fuel efficiency and responsiveness. Combined with the Quick Shift mod my car is returning ridiculous MPG right now ...ha ha around 380 miles (35% city,65% highway) on a fillup of 14 gallons of lowest priced costco gas :-)
I am paranoid about putting any additive in my engine oil. I already suffer from a small distributor leak and dont want to make matters worst.
BTW how would seafoaming through engine oil help the carbon deposits? I am stumped.. :-D

1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles

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#14 Old 06-06-2010, 10:49 PM
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sea foam in motor oil will most likely worsen existing leaks for sure as well as using full synthetic oil.
when sea foam is mixed with oil it basically cleans all the dirty oil passages or all parts that are being sprayed with oil which is beneficial (unless it's completely sludged up and loosening big chunks of it will clog the oil pump pick up screen or narrow passageways).

have you ever opened the valve cover to take a peek how it looks like in there ? this would give you a good hint if you should try it this way or rather not. i think with your mileage it should be fairly safe still.


'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E@ 142k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E @ 92k

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle
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#15 Old 06-06-2010, 11:32 PM
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Cranking with three of the four cylinders uncovered won't cause oil to squirt out of them?

2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 391,159+ miles.
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