Slow/no idle after warm starts/Code P1135

[Neo Fender]

My 1996 LE V6 w/ 152K miles does the following: Idling after cold starts is fine. If the car is started after sitting 5 – 30 minutes, 50% of time it will idle normally. At other times, the card will idle very slow (< 500 RPM) then die. The problem is totally random. Temperature and weather do not seem to be factors. Applying slight accelerator pedal pressure will keep it running. After five or so minutes or driving, the car will again idle normally.
The CEL is on and I have a code for the Bank 1 Sensor 1 (P1135, IIRC).
Has anyone else had this code AND the idles issues? Just trying to figure out if they are related or if I have two separate problems to fix.
Thanks.

[2wickedtoyz]

i found this on camryforums.com ..........:



P1135: The heater in the sensor is drawing too much or too little current.

The sensor has a heater to allow it to get up to operational speed more quickly. Most likely the heater in the sensor is burned out or could be a problem in the wiring going to the sensor.

Typically the front sensor goes bad.

Make sure you get the right sensor. Is this a California emission certified car? Check for a sticker under the hood stating something like "CALIF." If so you will need a wide band sensor.

Check www.rockauto.com for info on sensors including Denso. Do suggest the Denso brand as other brands (other then Toyota) can have issues when used and cause the light to come back on.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...r,partGroup,19

__________________
Joey P


i hope it helps.

[Neo Fender]

Thanks. There's some disagreement on the internet but I'm prettty sure that BanK 1 is the rear bank on a V6. Wanted to see if this was could be causing the idle problem.

Originally Posted by 2wickedtoyz

i found this on camryforums.com ..........:



P1135: The heater in the sensor is drawing too much or too little current.

The sensor has a heater to allow it to get up to operational speed more quickly. Most likely the heater in the sensor is burned out or could be a problem in the wiring going to the sensor.

Typically the front sensor goes bad.

Make sure you get the right sensor. Is this a California emission certified car? Check for a sticker under the hood stating something like "CALIF." If so you will need a wide band sensor.

Check www.rockauto.com for info on sensors including Denso. Do suggest the Denso brand as other brands (other then Toyota) can have issues when used and cause the light to come back on.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...r,partGroup,19

__________________
Joey P


i hope it helps.

[Neo Fender]

Bump

[fenixus]

yes it could. at idle computer relies (in closed fuel loop) on mostly upstream oxygen sensors, MAP, IAT and coolant temperature (ECT) to adjust fuel trims. if one of upstream o2 sensors is going bad, then it will impact the idle quality.

check the wiring to mentioned sensor. if wiring is good then replace that sensor pointed out by trouble code.

[Jason.MZW20]

It's certainly possible. The 1MZ uses independent bank control, so the fuel trims can be independent of one another.

Typically though, having to use the throttle to increase idle points to a sticky idle air control valve. Toyota ECUs monitor the idle RPM and keep track of the average idle speed. I'm pretty sure when the idle is less than 500rpm, the ECU signals the IAC to open more, and yours just isn't opening.

Wideband sensors were only used on 1998+ CA spec A/T 1MZs.

Are you sure it's a 1996 ECU or P1135? 1996 1MZ ECUs shouldn't throw P1135 codes because that's what Toyota uses for Air-fuel ratio sensors. Oxygen sensor heater codes are P0135(B1S1)/P0155(B2S1).

Bank 1 on V6s is the rear bank.

[Neo Fender]

My bad (typo) It's a 1998 LE V6. Thanks for the info.

[quote=Jason.MZW20;3228371]Are you sure it's a 1996 ECU or P1135? 1996 1MZ ECUs shouldn't throw P1135 codes because that's what Toyota uses for Air-fuel ratio sensors. Oxygen sensor heater codes are P0135(B1S1)/P0155(B2S1).
quote]