1MZ Noise? (Videos)

[LynchburgCSI]

The video does most of the talking. Should I be worried about this? No CEL and the engine has been well maintained by a Toyota stealership apparently. Noisey lifter? Seafoam to clean things up maybe? I'm not as familiar with engine internals. Thanks!

EDIT: The avy sometimes has trouble starting. Takes more than 5 seconds of cranking, turns over then dies instantly. Try to start again, takes 5 seconds, turns over and runs. It also doesn't like to be pushed hard. The car will hop and shake under full throttle (similar to the way a manual will hop when the throttle/clutch aren't engaged right taking off from a stop). Runs fine other than the noise under typical driving (under 3-4k rpms).

You Tube

You Tube

[fenixus]

nice video editing, what soft do you use for this ?

you put gen1 in thread's Title/Subject for avalon generation? it's a sort of misleading in gen3&4 camry section.

noise between 1,750-2,250rpm range ? that is actually a bearing noise range some would say, but bearing do not click i think. i'm not qualified to state any opinions on this.

i think i've heard that noise in some of other member's video on this forum, i think it was also a V6. don't remember what it was. can try to look up the other thread. not sure how it ended up though.

EDIT: nah that was different, kind of grinding stuff and lots of valves clicking.

PM 73sport, he likes such things

[Chris Crash]

Check your plugs and wires. My parent's minivan made a slightly less dramatic type of noise once and one of the spark plugs was completely loose and rattling around.

[aznbigbearjohn]

its vtec!!!

[LynchburgCSI]

Thanks for the help. I'll PM him a link to this thread and check the spark plugs.

Not to get off topic, but I used Windows Live Movie Maker (NOT windows movie maker). Free download for windows vista and windows 7. Edited it together in 5 minutes and uploaded from the software to youtube.

edit: Gen 1 Avalon, Gen 1 1MZ-FE engine.

[fenixus]

thanks man, somehow i've never used that software yet lol, need to play around with it someday

soon will be posting some suspicious noise (sort of bearing noise) on my car which happens only at cold engine around 2k-2.2k rpms. mostly can hear it only with synthetic oil in which is even weirder. wanted to put some subtitles on video, that's why i asked hehe.

[LynchburgCSI]

^ No prob. Also edited that post a bit after you quoted it.

[fenixus]

[73sport]

L, is that the one needing the O2 sensors? F'r-doodle. . .
That'd be a strange one. . .

Sure sounds like the valve train to me. These little cameras grab the highs and leave the low out. . . Makes it hard to get the whole picture.

Take a screw-driver, a wooden dowel, or stethoscope if you have such a thing and pinpoint WHERE it is by moving it around touching the suspect (an not so suspect) areas. Don't hesitatate listen to stupid things like alternators and PS pumps just so you hear what kind of harmonics they induce in the engine.

Not being one to jump to conclusions, but it sounds like valve train and IF it doesn't pull to the red line w/out missing I almost wonder if it has a busted valve spring???? I vote no on a ignition misfire thats mechanical! You can listen to the injectors too.

Yank the front/rear covers and look everything over REAL close after you think you know where it is.

Report back. . .

EDIT unlike the minivan it doesn't sound like its missing but . . . . me thinks mechanical

[LynchburgCSI]

Yep, this is the one that needs the O2 sensor (and struts, tires, inspection, radiator, bumper, fender, etc). It sounds 99% the same in person as it does in the video. I remember grabbing the intake manifold in that rpm range and it WAS vibrating. I don't have access to this car everyday so it'll be a while before I can diagnose it. About a week. I'll look over everything. I HATE the idea of yanking the valve covers, but I guess I can do that. I'm also guessing it's in the valve train, as I said in the video. It sucks though. I only have access to this car in 8 hour or so chunks. She HAS to have it in drivable condition after those times.

Should I try seafoam as a "quick fix"? (My guess is no.)

[slpr1mz]

i'm w/ 73. sounds like somthing is out of harmony, look at the bolts on the heads too, mayb the ones you can't see. make sure nothing is loose, even though it something like that shouldn't hurt the car under power, it my help out w/ the sounds. just an idea.

[fenixus]

what's up 73sport
so, that might be a broken valve spring ? but why it makes that noise only in 1,750-2,250rpm range then and not sort of always ? just a thought.

[73sport]

^^ IDK

That's an odd one even to me. Busted valve springs drop valves, you loose compression on that cylinder cause the valve isn't closed, they run like cattle dung. This SEEEEEEEEMSSSSS to run OK. So i can't fathom a busted spring (because its not missing), but IF the busted spring somehow retains enough pressure to close the valve, I suppose it could still be busted.

The next thing is like the hardening on the camshaft itself let go and it has a flat spot on the cam. I'd suspect what ever problem you find, it will be on the exhaust as an open intake KILLS all the cylinders if it doesn't close punctually. Picture lighting the camp fire and leaving the door open. Everybody gets burned and you soon have a VERY POOR running machine!

Obviously the busted spring theory and the flat cam are two totally different scenes. . .The flat cam would effect power but maybe not idle quality. Busted springs usually effect all RPS;s and double jeopardy if its an intake being held open.

So Whatever you find, look close at the Exhaust! But that doesn't rule out the intake! Turn the engine over, use the feeler gauges and check the clearances. << You'll need a helper to do this. One to turn the crank from below and one to measure stuff up top! Well unless you're an octopus! IDK! Crack its chest and LOOK!

The right bank (bank1) isn't that bad. Some workable shortcuts:

- Have gaskets on hand, valve cover, tube seals, intake plenum to intake manifold, throttle body, and ACIS if you remove the ACIS. Do the plugs while there.
- remove air intake hose.
- loosen wiring harness at front of engine to give you some slack (Near belts).
- loosen wiring harness at back of engine to give you some slack (near trans).
- *loosen and remove trhottle and trans cable, remove EGR, LEAVE coolant bypass on the T/B or deal with the coolant mess. You can leave the T/B in place and remove everything around it.
- remove plenum and brackets.
-support wire loom with a brace between the cowl and the center of the engine block. I stick and coat hanger or zip ties.
- remove cover

-Inspect with helper turning from below.

- DOn't forget to isolate WHERE you are looking with sound method (post above).




-

[LynchburgCSI]

1) Burned myself with R134A gas when removing the can from the system. The valve didn't shut and gas sprayed all over my hand.
2) The noise is DEFINITELY coming from the Bank 1 valve train. Checked all other engine components and locations.
3) I'm not really sure if I want to put the time or money into fixing this. I'm not very confident about pulling the entire head (never done it) and we're 80% sure the car is just going to be sold within the next month or two anyways.
4) This car hates me.

[TCam01]

dude why bother with that you can get a better car than that just be patient