Transmission Coincidence?

[CCMphysician]

I was home about 4 months ago (I normally leave my car at home while I am at school) and I checked my transmission fluid. Noticing it was grey, I took it to the town drivetrain mechanic. He checked it and said it was nothing to worry about and went ahead and flushed the transmission and cleaned the filter. Prior to this, about 6 months ago, I had checked the transmission fluid and it was the usual red, having never been replaced for the life of the vehicle.

Now, the transmission fluid is grey again (I am not sure if it was grey or not immediately after the transmission flush because my parents took care of the car and they're afraid of going under the hood). The fluid feels normal, I can't detect any particles in the fluid when I put it on my fingers and the paper towel test is normal. I trust that the mechanic did the transmission flush.

Well, today I was driving down the highway (approaching 50+ mph) and my CEL came on. The O/D Off light started to flash on and off. I took the car to Autozone and read the code. I am throwing the code P0773: Shift Solenoid E Electrical (Shift Solenoid Valve SL).

Now my question is this. Do you think that these are isolated events? What's the prognosis? What's the course of action?

Thank you in advance,
CCM

Circuit Characteristics:

The shift solenoid valve SL is turned ON and OFF by signals from the ECM to control the hydraulic pressure
acting on the lock–up relay valve, which then controls operation of the lock–up clutch.
Fail Safe Function
If the ECM detects a malfunction, it turns the shift solenoid valve SL OFF.
DTC P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical Malfunction
(Shift Solenoid Valve SL)
• Open or short in shift solenoid valve SL cir–
cuit.
• Shift solenoid valve SL.
• ECM
Open or short in shift solenoid SL circuit for 1
time. (2 trip detection logic)

[JohnGD]

Grey ATF usually means it's loading up with clutch friction material. So that's not a normal sign. Normal ATF degradation usually makes it turn brown and then finally coffee black.

You need to double check that solenoid, right behind the neutral safety switch (4-cyl) where you can see.

Originally Posted by CCMphysician

I was home about 4 months ago (I normally leave my car at home while I am at school) and I checked my transmission fluid. Noticing it was grey, I took it to the town drivetrain mechanic. He checked it and said it was nothing to worry about and went ahead and flushed the transmission and cleaned the filter. Prior to this, about 6 months ago, I had checked the transmission fluid and it was the usual red, having never been replaced for the life of the vehicle.

Now, the transmission fluid is grey again (I am not sure if it was grey or not immediately after the transmission flush because my parents took care of the car and they're afraid of going under the hood). The fluid feels normal, I can't detect any particles in the fluid when I put it on my fingers and the paper towel test is normal. I trust that the mechanic did the transmission flush.

Well, today I was driving down the highway (approaching 50+ mph) and my CEL came on. The O/D Off light started to flash on and off. I took the car to Autozone and read the code. I am throwing the code P0773: Shift Solenoid E Electrical (Shift Solenoid Valve SL).

Now my question is this. Do you think that these are isolated events? What's the prognosis? What's the course of action?

Thank you in advance,
CCM

Circuit Characteristics:

The shift solenoid valve SL is turned ON and OFF by signals from the ECM to control the hydraulic pressure
acting on the lock–up relay valve, which then controls operation of the lock–up clutch.
Fail Safe Function
If the ECM detects a malfunction, it turns the shift solenoid valve SL OFF.
DTC P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical Malfunction
(Shift Solenoid Valve SL)
• Open or short in shift solenoid valve SL cir–
cuit.
• Shift solenoid valve SL.
• ECM
Open or short in shift solenoid SL circuit for 1
time. (2 trip detection logic)

[CCMphysician]

And for the record I have a 1995 Toyota Camry V6 XLE. Should the solenoid be in the same position?

[Camry LE 94]

I was getting the same CEL after a rebuild when my OD went for the second time. The fluid wasn't anywhere near gray though, it just stayed its usual color. You don't want it to get too dark, however, because this will fry your tranny as it did mine, especially if you use it to deliver pizza like I do. (lol)

Anyhow, you're going to want to have this solenoid cleaned with compressed air, or just purchase a new "E" solenoid. I don't know where the neutral safety switch is either. You may even need to do a rebuild due to the clutch friction material getting mixed in with your fluid.

[CCMphysician]

Originally Posted by Camry LE 94

I was getting the same CEL after a rebuild when my OD went for the second time. The fluid wasn't anywhere near gray though, it just stayed its usual color. You don't want it to get too dark, however, because this will fry your tranny as it did mine, especially if you use it to deliver pizza like I do. (lol)

Anyhow, you're going to want to have this solenoid cleaned with compressed air, or just purchase a new "E" solenoid. I don't know where the neutral safety switch is either. You may even need to do a rebuild due to the clutch friction material getting mixed in with your fluid.

Thank you for the response. Did you do the rebuild yourself? I reset the computer and have taken the car onto the highway a couple of times, pushing the speed up until the gear shifts. Again, I don't note any change in driveability, it's still the smooth Camry ride and acceleration it has always been.

I showed the transmission fluid to my family. They think it's brown, I claim it's grey. Who knows, maybe I just don't know my primary colors. Great to know that your doc might not know his primary colors, huh?

-CCM

[73sport]

^^ theres a big difference between sitting for a week and being warm.

What ever you do, follow the same pattern so you get the same results for your color comparison. I suggest you do it warm after running for a while.

Sitting fluid tends to look more grey in general (look at the engine fluid a couple times after sitting). As stated Grey = metal. Lots of grey can come from contact with spinning parts hitting the aluminum case. Not trying to scare you here, just giving a little more info.

While checking, don't discount the smell of the fluid. Does it smell fresh and new or does it smell burned. Burned comes from two distinct faults. The compressor cooking the fluid (bad torque converter) and the clutches burning from slipping to much.

Cooked fluid needs to be replaced as it is likely breaking down and is no longer an effective lubricant as it was before being over heated. The bad news here is failed t/c do not repair themselves.
As stated above, normal clutch wear also turns the fluid brown and because transmissions have feeble filters, fluid replacement to remove contaminants and small particals will help preserve the life of a transmission.

[CCMphysician]

Thank you for the response. The engine has always been warm when I checked it (I typically don't check it cold). I have smelled the fluid as well, I knew there was something I forgot to post. The fluid smells fresh and new (I even compared it to a new bottle of transmission fluid). Knock on wood, but the computer has not thrown a code again. I'm beginning to think that the transmission fluid was never changed. That is going to be this weekend's project when I change the oil.

-CCM

Originally Posted by 73sport

^^ theres a big difference between sitting for a week and being warm.

What ever you do, follow the same pattern so you get the same results for your color comparison. I suggest you do it warm after running for a while.

Sitting fluid tends to look more grey in general (look at the engine fluid a couple times after sitting). As stated Grey = metal. Lots of grey can come from contact with spinning parts hitting the aluminum case. Not trying to scare you here, just giving a little more info.

While checking, don't discount the smell of the fluid. Does it smell fresh and new or does it smell burned. Burned comes from two distinct faults. The compressor cooking the fluid (bad torque converter) and the clutches burning from slipping to much.

Cooked fluid needs to be replaced as it is likely breaking down and is no longer an effective lubricant as it was before being over heated. The bad news here is failed t/c do not repair themselves.
As stated above, normal clutch wear also turns the fluid brown and because transmissions have feeble filters, fluid replacement to remove contaminants and small particals will help preserve the life of a transmission.