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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 06-15-2010, 04:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Remove VSV to get fuel rail - picture

Hi. I need to remove my front fuel rail but a metal rack with 3 VSV's are obstructing it. What is the best way to get at the fuel rail ? Do I have to remove all 3 VSV's from the metal rack and then remove the metal rack ?
I'm trying not to make this more difficult than it should be.

I've include a picture. You can see 2 VSV's connected to the orange electrical connectors. The 3rd VSV is connected to a blue electrical connector. I think the Toyota Service Manual calls these 3 VSV's the "Emissions Control Valve Set". I have a 96 V6 Camry.
Please help.
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Old 06-15-2010, 05:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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IME that is the least of your worries. Getting the banjo bolt loose from the rail w/out crushing it (or something else) is the issue.

Be sure to have some injector seals ready cause once you torque on the rail to get the banjo bolt loose, those old dried out seals won't be liking it and could suck air under vacuum.


You pulling it apart for injector service?
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Old 06-15-2010, 06:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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3rd Generation bango nut problem

Hi 73sport. I'm going put in a new fuel injector for cylinder #4 ( The front middle one). My mechanic suspected that a particular injector was causing a misfire. He moved it to cylinder #4 and the misfire followed it to cylinder #4.

Can you look at my fuel rail diagram shown here and point out the banjo nut that will cause me the problem ? Thanks for answering.
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Old 06-16-2010, 11:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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See the cross over tube (left). Those bolts going through the tube are the banjo bolts.

So you're saying it was apart before? That fact that someone had it apart should make it easier to get apart.

FWIW; use a long screw driver to your ear (from the injector) and you can hear them real well. Thing is, they can click, but that doesn't mean they're not plugged.

As for youre original question, just pull the bolts at the manifold (I think) and it VSV support should come free.

Bank1
1, 3, 5,

Bank2
2, 4, 6,
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Old 06-16-2010, 03:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

Thanks 73Sport. I'll be careful with the banjo bolts on the fuel pipe to the left. The Toyota Service Manual refers to this fuel pipe as "Fuel Pipe No. 2".

I'm trying to figure out how the mechanic removed injector #4.
I'm thinking that he must have loosened ( not removed ) the bango bolt going to the back fuel delivery pipe and removed the bango bolt going to the front delivery pipe. Then he must have only removed the front delivery pipe inorder to remove injector #4. He couldn't have remove the back delivery pipe. The air intake plenum is obstructing it. Do you think this will work ? It must have been an easy procedure because he didn't charge me.
Thanks again.
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Old 06-16-2010, 03:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think you have it covered.

Due this with a low fuel tank and crack the fuel tank cap to reduce the fuel spill mess.

As you begin the tear down, look for evidence of someone being there before as common practice would be to simply unlug the electrical connector at the injector and if it doesn't change the idle KNOWING the IGNITION system at the cylinder is working then the problem is the injector (depending on the problem, which is unknown to me). Thus No moving or removing anything that didn't take but a minute to diagnose.

I advise you to list the symptoms and all prior repair history before moving forward. We don't charge much here.

Also I'd advise that screw driver test before you begin. Can you hear the injector firing and what are your issues?
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Last edited by 73sport; 06-16-2010 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 06-17-2010, 02:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Stupid question

Hi 73Sport. Thanks for all your comments. They are very helpful and extremely clear.

One more stupid question concerning the removal of the VSV support rail.
Do you think I have to remove both vacuum hoses to each of the 3 VSV's ( that's a total of 6 vacuum hoses ) . . . . or . . . do you think that I can leave all the vacuum hoses connected and just shift them out of the way with the VSV support rail once I unbolt the support rail from the manifold ?

And if I have to remove all 6 vacuum hoses, do you think I have to connect them all in order to test my new fuel injector for leaks ? I was hoping for a quick way to test for leaks before having to connect all 6 vacuum hoses.
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Old 06-17-2010, 04:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Theroritically <spelling???> under your hood is a diagram for the basic vacuum routings. If in doubt, mark the hoses and take more pictures.

Sorry, I can't comment on each hose, but bank2 looks pretty straight forward. As stated my concern is disrupting old seals and causing possible vacuum leaks around the injectors.

Same is true of the other vacuum hoses as they are not as young and pliable as they were 15 years ago.
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Replacing a front fuel injector was easy

It's now a couple of months later and I finally replaced one of the front fuel injectors. It was easy. I usually have a tough time sharpening a pencil but I was able to do this. I didn't have to remove the banjo nut or remove the fuel rail from the car. I'll try to post my steps later this week.

The reason I replaced the fuel injector was because I was getting a misfire trouble code that progressively got worse. It came to the point where the check engine light was blinking constantly. I was also getting the P0171 trouble code indicating a lean condtion. I ruled out a problem with the coil pack by switching the coil pack of cylinder 2 with cylinder 4 and the misfire remained on cylinder 2.

I started by using fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank but it didn't solve the problem. I added a lot and it had no effect.

The car drives like new after replacing the fuel injector.
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