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Old 06-15-2010, 05:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
rob
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Can't get timing belt on

92' Camry LE, V6, Auto. I'm fixing my camshaft oil leaks. I've been trying to get the timing belt back on with no luck. I took out the lower pulley tensioner hoping that would help but did not. The lower tensioner moves back and forth freely (thought it was seized). The belt is too tight to get around both camshaft gears and under the upper pulley all at the same time. Is there a trick to doing this? appreciate any advice.
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Old 06-15-2010, 05:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Use a wrench on the cam gear to move it from its mark and AID in belt install. Just confirm that when the belt is on, everything still lines up correctly.

Once you try it, you'll see. Just a little rotation helps allot!

Good Luck!
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Old 06-15-2010, 05:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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A wrench on the cam gear?? I cannot stretch the belt enough to get it on both gears. I must be not understanding something very simple. Maybe you could explain that procedure a bit more for a simple folk, thanks.

Last edited by rob; 06-15-2010 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Are you sure your using the correct size belt? It should stretch to fit..
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redtigerrocks View Post
Are you sure your using the correct size belt? It should stretch to fit..
I have not repalced the timing belt. It's the same one that was there when I started the repair. As far as I can think, once I have released the lower tension idler the belt shoud stretch enough to go around both cam gears with the teeth at the correct markings but I cannot get it to stretch that far.
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Old 06-16-2010, 01:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Timing belts change lengths very little. And they will not shrink.

So double and triple check the installation and belt routing. Make sure the belt is tight between the pulleys except on the tensioner pulley side (the one that freely moves, on the lower left looking at the timing belt area).

By using a suitably sized socket and a breaker bar you can turn the cam sprocket slightly to help the teeth engage (like 73Sport said). Just be careful of spring action on the sprockets.

I take it that the original alignment markings are not visible any more? It'll be more difficult that way. Those marks aren't necessary at all. But if you still have difficulties consider buying a new timing belt.


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I have not repalced the timing belt. It's the same one that was there when I started the repair. As far as I can think, once I have released the lower tension idler the belt shoud stretch enough to go around both cam gears with the teeth at the correct markings but I cannot get it to stretch that far.
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
Timing belts change lengths very little. And they will not shrink.

So double and triple check the installation and belt routing. Make sure the belt is tight between the pulleys except on the tensioner pulley side (the one that freely moves, on the lower left looking at the timing belt area).

By using a suitably sized socket and a breaker bar you can turn the cam sprocket slightly to help the teeth engage (like 73Sport said). Just be careful of spring action on the sprockets.

I take it that the original alignment markings are not visible any more? It'll be more difficult that way. Those marks aren't necessary at all. But if you still have difficulties consider buying a new timing belt.
No, all the original marks are visible but I remarked everything before I took it all apart, belt and pulleys. If I move the camshaft to engage the teeth to the correct markings doesn't that effect the whole TDC thing? (I'm a newbie mechanic here) I'm back on shifts for the next 4 days so this will have to go on the back burner. I haven't pulled off the lower timing cover or the crank pulley (as there was nothing I was going to replace down there) but I guess I'm going to have to, to try and figure this problem out. Arrrrrr......another difficult bolt to get off. Thanks for the help so far.

Last edited by rob; 06-16-2010 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^^

That'd be your problem right there. Your belt is not on the crank drive gear all the way. As John said the belt does not stretch! The only time they do is right before they fail! In short, when everything lines up correctly it does go back on with just a little fight.

If you're not going to open it up completely YOU MUST DISREGARD those marks on the belt!

This also implies you're relying on the damper shell of the harmonic balancer to get your TDC timing mark. Keep in mind these do slip. i.e. The inner vs the outer our bonded and secured by volcanized rubber. This bond can fail.

By removing the damper and looking at the drive sprocket you can -
* confirm the gear is indexed at #1
* confirm the belt is seated in the gear
* confirm the belt marks align to the gear & TDC mark

Does it make sense why you can't use the belt markers if you didn;t confirm the bottom is in the right position?
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You can try to wiggle it and see if the teeth will seat at the crank. It's much harder but possible. Otherwise you'll need a pulley holder, 2' breaker bars and a suitable torque wrench that can do up to 250 lb/ft.

By turning the cam sprocket a little bit I mean by about 1 tooth or so. Just to help the teeth seat. And then when you return it to the proper position the slack in the belt goes away. Just be careful the spring action on the sprocket doesn't catch your finger somewhere.



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Originally Posted by rob View Post
No, all the original marks are visible but I remarked everything before I took it all apart, belt and pulleys. If I move the camshaft to engage the teeth to the correct markings doesn't that effect the whole TDC thing? (I'm a newbie mechanic here) I'm back on shifts for the next 4 days so this will have to go on the back burner. I haven't pulled off the lower timing cover or the crank pulley (as there was nothing I was going to replace down there) but I guess I'm going to have to, to try and figure this problem out. Arrrrrr......another difficult bolt to get off. Thanks for the help so far.
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Old 06-17-2010, 01:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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+1 agreed and well said. It can be done, its just a bit harder.

In my post above I prefer to get that positive confirmation so I know I don't have to redo any previous work. Understanding now that you only have the top exposed, this all makes sense.

FYI: when you think you have it right, do a double check:
- rotate the crankshaft 720 degrees and all of the marks (on the engine block and gears) should line up again. The belt marks will not line up with the gear tho - this is normal.
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