3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Car info.
2000 Toyota 2.2L Camry 5sfe engine
@100,000 miles
The car was overheating and now the car kept losing cooling every week. Everyweek, I have to re-fill cooling about 34 FL Oz into the radiator. Also, the temp. gauge kept raise up and go down will I'm at dead stop. If I am on highway, I can see the temp. gauge kept go up and then down. However, the cooling reservoir has air bubble and radiator, too.
Could this a sign of blown head gasket? the car can run, but little shake.. The check engine light also come on. said I have all 4 cylinders random misfire.
I plan to remove the head out and bring to machine shop. What you guys recommended replace while I have the head at machine shop?
People recommend replaced valve stem oil seal while I have the head at machine shop. What you guys suggested to replaced?
You think if I go with aftermarket Felpro brand head gasket set..and used aftermarket valve stem oil seal.. Should it be ok?
Since I don't have air compressor, what you guys recommend to clean out the engine block old head gasket? razor is OK? what other tools that I might need to do the job clean out the head old gasket?
what other chemical that I can buy at Autozone to help clean old head gasket quicker? I heard people used collaborator cleaner to help clean off the old head gasket? Is this good method?
Please share your experience if there is a good way to clean all old head gasket off the engine block?
What other things I should look out when I have all old gasket off the engine block clean?
From my experience, Toyota original head gaskets are the way to go. There are probably better, but in my own experience I have had good luck with them. The valve stem seals apparently are poorly designed by Toyota, so aftermarket are better. There is nothing else that normally needs replacing on the head, unless the valves, guides or valve springs are bad, which is unlikely. I would get a machine shop to clean the head and inspect for cracks, and resurface if needed, it's worth the money.
I don't use compressed air when working on engines, it only serves to blow particles into the engine, not out of it. I stuff rags etc. into all the various passages before I clean off the old gasket. After you get all of the old gasket material off (I've used a brass wire brush on the old Toyota engines, I don't do this anymore although it may still be a valid method) I use acetone to clean the surface, it removes all traces of oil and gunk. After you're done, vacuum the block out including what ever dropped into the cylinders. If the engine is going to sit for awhile with the head off, put a light coat of oil on the cylinder walls to prevent rust.
edit - I have a scraper that I made out of a piece of aluminum, it works well to get the stubborn bits of old gasket off, and because it's much softer than the block it won't damage it so easily.
i am rebuilding my 97 engine and i bought the Fel pro head gasket set it has every thing but the front and rear main seals. The set seem to be good for me and only $120 from oreilly auto parts.
Will the brass wire brush work for aluminum engine block or steel engine block? I am not sure what Toyota made their engine block? Want to make sure if the brass wire brush will work for both? Can someone comments on this?
71Corola, thanks for quick responding. You think it's good ideal to let Machine re-tight the head bolds after Machine shop replaced valve steam oil seal or I just have them lightly re-tight the head bolds... Is that something you prefer safe for them to re-tight or I do?
You recommend I should re-check their work.... or should I take their work and put the head back on..
As far the valve stem oil seal, how can you know if their replace new valve oil seal?
is there any way that I can tell if the machine shop sit the valve steam oil seal in position correctly?
Can you share what material that u custom made the" scraper that I made out of a piece of aluminum"? Is something that I can buy material and make myself?
Last edited by 1996camry; 06-16-2010 at 12:00 AM.
Reason: Editing: Add an extra question
The brass wire brush I would not use on aluminum. I don't think you are supposed to use any wire brush on aluminum engine parts actually, although I have many times. But this is with the real old Toyota engines, 1972 ilk etc. The heads back then seemed like they could take any abuse. On a cast iron block it's probably okay. But I will warn you, it has a habit of shedding wires, you don't want that in an engine. So just don't use such a thing, I don't anymore myself although it sure worked well.
Not sure I understand your question about re-tightening the head bolts, you are the one that is doing the disassemble/assembly correct? And if you don't trust the machine shop to replace the stem seals, you can always do it yourself it's pretty easy.
The tool I made is from a piece of aluminum stock, probably 1/4" thick that I shaped on the bench grinder (I have a "china stone" which is a white aluminum oxide grinding wheel) to have sharp(ish) edges. One end I bent in a loop so I can use a pulling motion to get stuff off. A piece of brass is also great for this. When you damage the edge, a quick pass on the bench grinder fixes it up. I'm sure they sell tools like this, I just made my own because I had the metal laying around. Even with such a tool, you still have to be careful when scraping the block. The head you don't have to worry about if you get a machine shop to give it a once over, it will be perfectly clean when you get it back.
The shop should make sure the cylinder head is straight and there is no coolant erosion on the mating surface. The 2000 uses a Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gasket, so the shop should know to refinish the surface accordingly (if needed) to a near mirror smooth finish. I'd put Fel-Pro valve stem seals in there. Toyota OEM or Fel-Pro head gaskets should be fine (likely to be the same anyway). Have the shop check the valves and valve guides for wear and verify valve clearances while there. Use new (Fel-Pro) head bolts.
Talk to the shop to see if they'll service your cylinder head using materials you specified, or just hand you a rebuilt off the shelf using their common supplier.
You should also check the block for warpage too. You'll need a thread chaser for the head bolt holes. I wouldn't use a tap that cuts away metal. An air compressor will help clean out the bolt holes. You have to make sure it's clean for a lasting repair. For example, if there is coolant in there you can crack the block tightening the head bolts. Clean all debris out of the cylinders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996camry
Hi guys,
Car info.
2000 Toyota 2.2L Camry 5sfe engine
@100,000 miles
The car was overheating and now the car kept losing cooling every week. Everyweek, I have to re-fill cooling about 34 FL Oz into the radiator. Also, the temp. gauge kept raise up and go down will I'm at dead stop. If I am on highway, I can see the temp. gauge kept go up and then down. However, the cooling reservoir has air bubble and radiator, too.
Could this a sign of blown head gasket? the car can run, but little shake.. The check engine light also come on. said I have all 4 cylinders random misfire.
I plan to remove the head out and bring to machine shop. What you guys recommended replace while I have the head at machine shop?
People recommend replaced valve stem oil seal while I have the head at machine shop. What you guys suggested to replaced?
You think if I go with aftermarket Felpro brand head gasket set..and used aftermarket valve stem oil seal.. Should it be ok?
Since I don't have air compressor, what you guys recommend to clean out the engine block old head gasket? razor is OK? what other tools that I might need to do the job clean out the head old gasket?
what other chemical that I can buy at Autozone to help clean old head gasket quicker? I heard people used collaborator cleaner to help clean off the old head gasket? Is this good method?
Please share your experience if there is a good way to clean all old head gasket off the engine block?
What other things I should look out when I have all old gasket off the engine block clean?
Thanks for nice tips, JohnGD. Also, the link to rep. machine shop is very helpful. Just got off the phone one guy, they charge me $200 for doing two heads. Is that a reasonable price?
Any other things I should tell the machine shop to check beside what JohnGD has already mention on previous posted.
How to check for engine block for warped
Can I used a straight ruler to check the block for warped?
Last edited by 1996camry; 06-16-2010 at 09:08 AM.
Reason: add extra question
What's included in the $200? Depending on what they do, it can be a great deal or it may not.
Cleaning and check for cracks with dye penetrant? All new seals at least Fel-Pro? Inspect all springs, valve clearances, valve guides, valves and seat wear? Resurface if needed? I doubt they'll replace valve guides, regrind valves and seat at $100 per side.
Use a straight edge and a 2-mil feeler gauge. Find a kit with either a 1.5 or 2-mil gauge. Iron block is less of a problem, but double check it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996camry
Thanks for nice tips, JohnGD. Also, the link to rep. machine shop is very helpful. Just got off the phone one guy, they charge me $200 for doing two heads. Is that a reasonable price?
Any other things I should tell the machine shop to check beside what JohnGD has already mention on previous posted.
How to check for engine block for warped
Can I used a straight ruler to check the block for warped?
Do you have the link to buy dye penetrant? Is that something I can get local Autozone? One machine shop told me, I can get dye penetrant from welding shop. Is true or not true? Can someone comfirm?
As others have mentioned, make your best efforts towards not letting debris fall into the engines oil and water passages. Vacuum it out.
For this to be successful, do as suggested and chase the block threads, clean them complety and oil them lightly but do not fill the holes.
Grease the head bolts flange and oil the threads so you get the proper bolt torque when installing the head. Be sure to follow the proper sequence using a good quality torque wrench.
Take a look at this link: Engine Mechanical. It'll give you some insight.
Toyota Gen4 (1997-2001) Camry Repair Manuals
Many thanks to "DrXenon" on ToyotaNation for providing these manuals.
Note: * indicates file contains one half for 5S-FE, one half for 1MZ-FE
This is for checking the block at home? Because if a machine shop services the cylinder head/block, they should use either the dye penetrant (iron/alum) or mangaflux (iron block).
They spray the dye, then the developer so the eyes can see, and then followed by the cleaner. Check Amazon.com, for about $90 a complete kit.
The machine shop should check for coolant erosion of the cylinder head. You should check to see if there are erosion areas on the block. Otherwise the head gasket won't seal properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996camry
JohnGD,
Do you have the link to buy dye penetrant? Is that something I can get local Autozone? One machine shop told me, I can get dye penetrant from welding shop. Is true or not true? Can someone comfirm?
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On a cast iron block it's probably okay. But I will warn you, it has a habit of shedding wires, you don't want that in an engine. So just don't use such a thing, I don't anymore myself although it sure worked well.
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