3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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My father's 2000 Camry (2.2L) has heat & AC, but you need to put the vent on 3 or 4 to feel it.
car has no issues warming up, no overheating, no leaks...just poor heat & AC distribution, I was think t-stat, as the car as 164k and he said it has yet to have been changed.
Did a bit of digging, these do have blower motors and supposedly the blower motor resistors are a common Toyota problem, I think I may start with that, think they're like $30 @ the dealer and located under the passengerr side dash (glove box area)
Anyone have any other input before I run off in this direction? Thanks for the quick replies
IMO the resistor is only applicable for low settings. High should be 12v direct.
Any chance the car has small four legged passengers taking up residence?
Sounds like either the motor or blockage from something else.
Remove the lower cover passanger side and the blower has pretty easy access. Pulling it will resolve the habbitate issue and check that the motor spins freely. It could have dry bearings limiting it RPM.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
You are correct in that at the low settings the air distributed is the onyl think affected, I think I may have misspoke in one of my posts about the high air being bad as well.
In terms of 4legged creatures, the area does have some around, but I've never seen any evidence of them in/around the car.
If the blower in fact does not spin freely, is it something where I could apply some type of grease, to re-lube it?
Sorry, can't help ya on that one. I mean I've always found a way but I've never had to deal w/this so I can't say.
If you get it out the blower cage end of the motor is guaranteed access because of the shaft which hold the cage. The other end may be covered tho.
In this case, gravity and mobil 1 sythetic would be my choice. Get the lube to the shaft and let gravity take it to the bushing. Spin it by hand and hit 4 times over an hour to see if it frees up.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
No problem, thanks for the guidance. I was just asking about the blower as a worst case type of thing, hopefully it's the resistor, which from input and other searches that seems to be the issue
Pull the blower motor and inspect it. Also...inspect the evaporator fer dirt/clogging. I used my point and shoot camera to git piccies to look at mine...
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
Pull the blower motor and inspect it. Also...inspect the evaporator fer dirt/clogging. I used my point and shoot camera to git piccies to look at mine...
That rivals some farm equipment I've seen! Q? What environment made that so nasty? Definately not a simple "in car cleaning" to recover from that!
Perhaps corrosion took over ate a hole in it too boot, thus compressor oil is present too! Wicked!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
The T-100 was a former work truck...it's been in this condition ever since I got it about a year ago. As you can tell...I've been experimenting with various things to make it a little better. The foam wrap has been my best return on investment so far. I likes it cold in the truck!
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
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