how to remove crankcase bolt

[rob]

Can't get the crank bolt off. The engine is stripped so I don't think I can turn it over. I've got a #14 wrench on one of the torque converter bolts and it's stopping the engine from turning over well but I've already cracked a #19 socket using my 1/2 inch ratchet with an extension bar on it and broke a 3/8" ratchet. Any suggestions from here????

[Chris Crash]

Originally Posted by rob

Can't get the crank bolt off. The engine is stripped so I don't think I can turn it over. I've got a #14 wrench on one of the torque converter bolts and it's stopping the engine from turning over well but I've already cracked a #19 socket using my 1/2 inch ratchet with an extension bar on it and broke a 3/8" ratchet. Any suggestions from here????

Use an extension bar on it and have the bar propped against the ground. Then go turn the key and just kinda 'blip' the starter.

[rob]

[QUOTE=Chris Crash;3236487]Use an extension bar on it and have the bar propped against the ground. Then go turn the key and just kinda 'blip' the starter.[/QUOT

I've read about that but everything is pulled apart including the main wiring harness to get at the cam seals. Does that matter? Will the car turn over? I guess I could always go out and try to start the car....

[Chris Crash]

Probably not. Get a length of wire and touch the starter terminal to the positive side of the battery. That'll turn it over. Don't do it in gear, please.

[RU2CHKN]

you could get a 3/4 impact gun

[Nervous]

DeWalt DW292 1/2" 320 lbs torque electric impact wrench worked just fine for me. Home Depot sells them.

[DxElite]

I use a 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench to take mines off.
If you don't have air compressor, you could try an electric impact wrench.

[rob]

So I tried to get the engine to loosen the bolt, no luck. I'm starting to think the bolt is reversed thread.

[JohnGD]

Some engine crank bolts are reversed threaded, but not on the 5SFE that I know of. The bolt is torqued to 80 lb/ft, so unless there is corrosion it should take much more than taking off a wheel lug nut.

Besides the starter trick there are also:

1. thread an 8mm bolt in the pulley (there are two threaded holes). Use a pry bar between the socket and the 8mm bolt. The pulley should wedge against the pry bar and stop turning. However, the bolt is likely to bend first.

2. Get a pulley holder such as:
http://www.otctools.com/products/uni..._pulley_holder

3. Fabricate your own holder using a 2x4. Drill 8mm bolt holes and the larger socket hole and use as in tool #2.

4. Remove the starter. Take a large screwdriver and wedge it through the starter hole against the flexplate teeth.

So how's the rust/corrosion problem?

Originally Posted by rob

So I tried to get the engine to loosen the bolt, no luck. I'm starting to think the bolt is reversed thread.

[rob]

No rust on the car, it only has 220,000 KM. It's crazy how stuck this bolt is. I had to put the right engine mount back in as the whole engine was torquing by how much I was pulling on it. This really makes no sense. I'm not too worried about making/buying a pully holder as I've got a wrench on one of the converter bolts that is stopping the crank from turning.

[JohnGD]

Try the other alternative methods. If they don't work maybe get a 1/2" impact wrench. 3/8" won't work. 3/8" sockets are good for up to 80 lb/ft of torque, and sounds like that bolt is much more than that.

Originally Posted by rob

No rust on the car, it only has 220,000 KM. It's crazy how stuck this bolt is. I had to put the right engine mount back in as the whole engine was torquing by how much I was pulling on it. This really makes no sense.

[71Corolla]

For really stubborn bolts, use a breaker bar and position it about 5 inches from a striking surface, preferably something immovable like the garage floor. Spike the starter and the breaker bar will get up some speed before it stops, shocking the bolt loose. I've never seen a bolt that could withstand the force, it will either come loose or break off (highly unlikely). Just beware, the torque is tremendous so stand back, and make sure the car is properly supported! Also make sure the bar is not going to crash into some cosmetic part of the car.

Or a high powered impact wrench will work great if you have one.

BTW, if the engine is not on its mounts, I could see why you can't get the bolt loose, the engine will twist too much I think.

[rob]

I just had the one mount off on the passenger side but i put it back on once I saw the engine torquing. I'll try letting the ratchet work up some momentum as well.

[JohnGD]

Here is a Honda Civic timing belt article with the screwdriver in the starter hole trick. Same basic idea. See the Gates OEM timing belt?

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t.../photo_10.html

[ajkalian]

Here's how I solved the problem. I made this from a floor flange and some pipe that you can get at Lowes or Home Depot. Once attached to the pulley, you can wedge the bar against the suspension, and get a big breaker bar and jump on it if necessary. The bolt will come loose. Be sure to check the spacing between the bolt holes. Seems it varies from model to model. The whole thread is here if you want to read about it in detail.

But the "bump start" method is the easiest way to get the bolt off. This Club was used to hold the pulley, for re-assembly to re-torque the bolt, since the specs are 130ft/lbs, and the motor will turn over at a little over 80 ft/lbs.

BTW, I'm 99.999% sure that the bolt is NOT a reverse thread.

2000 Camry LE 6cyl 1MZ-FE Timing Belt Change




Another one is here, where I got the idea, and I like to call DZ63 the "King of Clubs"

Here's the link to that very informative thread.

DIY: GEN3 Timing Belt + Waterpump + Oil Seal Change - Part 1


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