cv axle change - now leaks oil help

[jaswasup]

Changed my driver side cv axle and now it leaks from the entry point at the trans
Is it the output differential seal ?
Is this hard to change ? or is it a simple pull out clean and knock a new one in ?

1992 manual 4 cyl

[bronzemaxell]

Originally Posted by jaswasup

Changed my driver side cv axle and now it leaks from the entry point at the trans
Is it the output differential seal ?
Is this hard to change ? or is it a simple pull out clean and knock a new one in ?

1992 manual 4 cyl

that mean you have to repeat the exercise over again in order to change the axle seal, cost around $7 to $10 from toyota stealership. the part is cheap, and I recommend stay with toyota genuine parts, becareful removing the old one, don't score the metal surface, and when putting the new one in, make sure not to damage the new seal and the spring when inserting the axle.

[jaswasup]

PLease let me know best tool / way to remove and re install seal s

thanks
jay

[JohnGD]

I use this to pull out the differential output shaft seals. But access to the seal can be a problem sometimes:
http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html

If you get the OEM seal it should come with grease already in the seal. Otherwise you'll have to use a little multipurpose grease or just some ATF (if you don't have Transgel) on both the seal and the seal contact surface on the halfshaft.

Seals can be damaged when the halfshaft is removed/installed. So be careful. You can usually find a piece of PVC pipe at home depot that will fit the seal. Firm hand pressure will do for the most part, with light hammering at the very end to help completely seat the seal. Just make sure the seal is installed square. Take your time to do this.

Originally Posted by jaswasup

PLease let me know best tool / way to remove and re install seal s

thanks
jay

[bronzemaxell]

i normally use a medium size long handle flat head screw driver , insert it into the seal and pry it out from 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock position, since the old seal not be re-used, and discarded, it is ok if the seal breaks on its way out. put some ATF or engine oil or grease on the outter surface of the new seal so it will slide in easier, make sure push it in evenly with thumbs first, and i find using two equal length wooden sticks, spread it like "A" shape and lightly hammer sticks on the opposite side of the seal until it goes in evenly. i am sure many ways, like JohnGD mentioned will work just as good, or probably even better.

[73sport]

Everything said applies - often times grit and gravel from the 1st removal gets in the seal or drug into the sela by shoving the axle back in. Other times its the the axle itself which damaged the seal on the way in/out. The splines and keeper are not nice to the seal.

No matter, its done now.
As John sugests, something that fits the outer edge of the seal is best so you only press on the metal edge not the rubber. I typically use 1/2" drive sockects with long 1/2" drive extensions. This gives you room to swing and a better visual on the angle while your driving the seal in.

As said, always grease the mating contact areas of seals as two dry surfaces heat and glaze the rubber making it hard.

Don't forget to top off the transaxle or maybe even do a complete flush of the fluids.