3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I replaced my brake pads yesterday with Duralast Gold from AutoZone. I'm unsure if these are considered decent pads, but I didn't have time to order better ones online.
In any case, as has happened before, the new pads are squeaking. I know it helps to add grease to the back of the pads, but these "gold" pads came with "noise dampening" shims. Should I have added grease on top of that?
I also replaced all of the metal clips. One of them was partially rotted and AutoZone doesn't sell them individually, so I had to buy a whole kit. So I know those can't be the problem.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
There seems to be a few complaints about Duralast noises. I think you can return them for refund on noise issues.
You received some NBK pads from the dealer before, these are IMO inferior pads compared to Akebonos that the dealer also sells. There is no telling which batch they got of course. I guess it depends who the lowest bidder for the batch is. That's why I'd rather tell people to order Akebono ProAct ceramics online than come back with NBK pads from the dealer.
But I think at this point your quickest way of getting Akebonos is from the dealer. The price, especially with coupon, isn't bad. Just look for "AK xxx-xxx FF" markings on the back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
I replaced my brake pads yesterday with Duralast Gold from AutoZone. I'm unsure if these are considered decent pads, but I didn't have time to order better ones online.
In any case, as has happened before, the new pads are squeaking. I know it helps to add grease to the back of the pads, but these "gold" pads came with "noise dampening" shims. Should I have added grease on top of that?
I also replaced all of the metal clips. One of them was partially rotted and AutoZone doesn't sell them individually, so I had to buy a whole kit. So I know those can't be the problem.
There seems to be a few complaints about Duralast noises. I think you can return them for refund on noise issues.
You received some NBK pads from the dealer before, these are IMO inferior pads compared to Akebonos that the dealer also sells. There is no telling which batch they got of course. I guess it depends who the lowest bidder for the batch is. That's why I'd rather tell people to order Akebono ProAct ceramics online than come back with NBK pads from the dealer.
But I think at this point your quickest way of getting Akebonos is from the dealer. The price, especially with coupon, isn't bad. Just look for "AK xxx-xxx FF" markings on the back.
I thought the FF rating wasn't a good one? These Duralast pads have FF printed on them. If I recall correctly, pads from the dealer are about $70. These Duralast pads were $40, and I used $20 I had on their rewards card, so they cost me $20.
Advance Auto has Akebono pads on their website, but they're not available in stores here. AND they're shown as being for 14" wheels anyway.
They carry Wearever and Wagner, it seems.
Today is likely the last day I have left to do any car work before I leave town. I'm gonna try to take this time to do a compression test and service the rear drum brakes. The drum brakes are probably going to take a while. They have never been opened before, so I can only imagine the horror. Should I avoid Duralast brake shoes and other drum parts?
I might have time to replace or grease up the front pads... but not to order Akebonos. Is there any possibility that putting some grease over the shims of the pads will eliminate the noise?
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
Did you just do a pad slap and leave the old rotors? When ever I do a pad slap I get brake noises for the first 100miles. I put the autozone gold pads on my lexus with new rotors and haven't had a problem.
Did you just do a pad slap and leave the old rotors? When ever I do a pad slap I get brake noises for the first 100miles. I put the autozone gold pads on my lexus with new rotors and haven't had a problem.
The rotors are not new, but they also aren't the originals. I suppose I could wait and see if the noise goes away.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
Did those pads have break-in coating on them? Some have a sand paper grit finish which aids in seating them in. It looks like anti-skid tape, sorta gravel textured. These do not require you to resurface the rotor. If they don't have it, they will take longer to seat and may squeak for a while.
Personally I've never been an advocate of greasing pressure contact areas like the corners of the pad as they simply collect dirt and create more wear. Pressure, heat and water will risnse them away over time anyway.
I would advise you measure the rotor and make sure its thick enough to be reused tho if you don;t have them turned by a shop. This is for safety reasons.
If you end up replacing them for noise:
I've been very happy with this set of Bendix OEM ceramics. Great pads for stopping power! However they do have a light squeak when I first start rolling until I tap the brakes the very first time and then quiet all day.
Mines 4W/disc tho.
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
Did those pads have break-in coating on them? Some have a sand paper grit finish which aids in seating them in. It looks like anti-skid tape, sorta gravel textured. These do not require you to resurface the rotor. If they don't have it, they will take longer to seat and may squeak for a while.
Personally I've never been an advocate of greasing pressure contact areas like the corners of the pad as they simply collect dirt and create more wear. Pressure, heat and water will risnse them away over time anyway.
I would advise you measure the rotor and make sure its thick enough to be reused tho if you don;t have them turned by a shop. This is for safety reasons.
If you end up replacing them for noise:
I've been very happy with this set of Bendix OEM ceramics. Great pads for stopping power! However they do have a light squeak when I first start rolling until I tap the brakes the very first time and then quiet all day.
Mines 4W/disc tho.
No, the rotors were not "turned."
I believe the auto stores do not carry Bendix anyway.
However, getting started this late in the day I won't have time to mess with the front brakes now. So I will leave them as-is and hope it goes away over time.
I replaced the front two rotors in 2008 I think. Maybe 100k miles ago? Prior to that, I was still running the original rotors with 250k+ on them.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
As for your rotors, I always take a buffing wheel to them when putting on new pads to ruff 'em up (if not replacing them or turning them). I do the same to the pads.
Squeaky brakes are usually caused by the pads vibrating in the calipers. You can usually find some blue goop to put on the back the brake pads (it's not grease). A lot of auto parts stores sell little packets of these and alls you have to do is remove the pads and apply the blue goop to the back of the pads. Allow to dry for however long it says to on the package, reassemble the pads.
I'd leave the grease off the back of the pads. A little grease on the pad friction points is alright, but use too much and all it will do is gather dirt, or heat up and run onto your pads and rotors and ruin them.
So what brand of rotors did you get? Did the old ones wear down to min thickness or warped?
Brembo says to use new pads with new rotors. Not sure what the wisdom is behind that. But I've never heard of needing to resurface old rotors just for changing pads. Some shops do it "just in case", and to reduce customer come-backs. But this means they'll have a better chance of selling new rotors the next time.
If the rotor is not scratched, warped or have excessive thickness variations, then there is no need to machine it. Doing so only takes away precious metal that helps to dissipate heat. In fact, the recommendation has been used by GM for Ford for a long time now. European cars, on the other hand, need a new set of rotors with pads. Just because their physics-defying brake pads eat up the rotors in no time (high silica content).
Like others said, drive around for a while. Your Duralast Gold has lifetime warranty, probably even for wear. If they are acceptable on your trip, you know you'll probably never need to spend another dime on brake pads. Next time consider upgrading (paying the difference) for the Duralast Gold Cmax with nitrile-backed noise shims that are supposed to be even quieter.
BITOG group suggested that, at least a few years ago, Duralast pads were made by Morse and Satisfied. Supposed to be decent but a bit dusty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
No, the rotors were not "turned."
I believe the auto stores do not carry Bendix anyway.
However, getting started this late in the day I won't have time to mess with the front brakes now. So I will leave them as-is and hope it goes away over time.
I replaced the front two rotors in 2008 I think. Maybe 100k miles ago? Prior to that, I was still running the original rotors with 250k+ on them.
I replaced the rotors because the braking was a bit choppy. Almost like it was pulsating, if you know what I mean.
I think I'm just going to leave the pads as-is and hope the noise goes away. It doesn't happen all of the time, and when it does, it's very mild. I've dealt with worse.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
Looks like you got good life out of those rotors. They're probably all below min thickness by the look of those lips (and probably could use replacing earlier). Raybestos service grade rotors ~$15-17 or so online, actually work fine. Now they're phasing it out and only have Professional Grade (PG). And with ceramics pads both should last a very long time.
Yeah, see if the noise goes away after a while. If so, all future replacement pads should be free with the Autozone LLT warranty from what I heard. That's another reason I like to spec struts with LLT warranty from Autozone.
I replaced the rotors because the braking was a bit choppy. Almost like it was pulsating, if you know what I mean.
I think I'm just going to leave the pads as-is and hope the noise goes away. It doesn't happen all of the time, and when it does, it's very mild. I've dealt with worse.
John,
Slightly off topic but on the same note: someone posted that rotors can build up material through pad transfer to the rotor which make the rotor feel warped as it creates vibs during breaking. Have you ever heard of such a thing?
I had a set of rotors turned by some knuckle heads. That is I watched the guy touch the cutter to the rotor and it was only hitting 1/2 the rotor as if it was chocked up at an angle. I figured he wrecked them, but I installed them and the owner put hundreds of miles on the car and said it was fine. I drove it several times and it had no vibration.
Later at 205miles, it developes this wheel shimming during braking. Which is what I thought it would do from the begining as I it took several passes to obtain full contact on 360degrees of both surfaces when he truned them. But he said it was true now and it wasn't before. (Yes, my thinking was it was TRUE before and he cut it off axis making it have run-out, but it drove fine for a while.
Can accumiliation cause a shake? Will heating them towards the excessive side cure it if its from pad transfer? I have to say NO and NO and say the best test is a dial indicator to check run-out but I don;t have access to the car.
- I anticipate putting new rotors on it.
Thanks for any thoughts. . .
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
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Next time consider upgrading (paying the difference) for the Duralast Gold Cmax with nitrile-backed noise shims that are supposed to be even quieter. 
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